Help troubleshoot starting issues...

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Glenn_Guinto

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
139
2
51
Central Valley, NY
whiterovers.tumblr.com
Hi dweb, I was wondering if anyone can help me troubleshoot my starting issues...

99 D1 with 145K miles, drove it close to empty with the low fuel light screaming at me for about 12 miles. Parked it for 3 weeks.

Used it after 3 weeks, started right up with no hesitation, drove it 1 mile to the gas station, put $50 of gas... restarted... just cranking but no go. There's air, there's spark but no fuel along the fuel rail.

Left it at gas station, came back 10 hours later, started no problem as if nothing happened. Got home, parked, restarted, no juice again. Just cranking, but does not start... again, no fuel along the fuel rail.

I seem to be stuck in this cycle, where if it sat for more than 10 hours, it will start, drive normal, but once you stopped, you can't start again until after 10 hours or so...

This is driving me insane...any ideas? Owned this since new in 99, nothing but premium fuel since new. I don't think it's the fuel pump, could it be the filter? relays? Please help! Thanks!

- Glenn
 
Chris740

Chris740

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2009
53
0
Nashville
Have you ever put a fuel pump in it?It very well could be.Pull the assembly out of the tank and check the pick up sock also.
Relays have been known to do weird things like this as well.This is a D1 and some have a habit of eating pumps
 
G

Glenn_Guinto

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
139
2
51
Central Valley, NY
whiterovers.tumblr.com
Yes, replaced fuel pump about 4 yrs ago at 100K miles. I'll play with it this weekend and see. My theory is I clogged up the fuel pump with tank sediments due to running it really low on fuel, but if it's the fuel pump, it will just not start at all...no? I'm confused about this 10-hour intervals... that's why I'm thinking Lucas maybe the culprit... thoughts?
 
Chris740

Chris740

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2009
53
0
Nashville
When the fuel pump went out on my volvo it did very similar things before it actually died. Also did similar things when the relay crapped out.Open up the relay and look for bad solder joints.Also check for power at the pump.You will need an extra set of hands for that one.I resolded most of the relays in my volvo.Have yet to replace one so it's very possible to do the same if you find bad spots.
 
D Chapman

D Chapman

1
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
Dang, blast from the past! Long time, Glenn.

I would bet on the fuel pump. Could also be some corrosion on the fuel pump terminals since you don't drive it often. But I would still lean towards fuel pump. If you don't have one, you need to have a spare anyway.
 
G

Glenn_Guinto

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
139
2
51
Central Valley, NY
whiterovers.tumblr.com
D Chapman said:
Dang, blast from the past! Long time, Glenn.

I would bet on the fuel pump. Could also be some corrosion on the fuel pump terminals since you don't drive it often. But I would still lean towards fuel pump. If you don't have one, you need to have a spare anyway.
Click to expand...


Hi Dan, blast from the past indeed! How are you and the gang?

I have a spare fuel filter but not a spare fuel pump. I will try to replace the fuel filter this weekend. I was shopping around for a fuel pump and they are anywhere from $400-$500 bucks... does that sound about right? Where's do you guys get parts these days?

Hey John, how's it going?! PM me your number, maybe we can get together one of these days. I'm back in Jersey.... got kicked out of Vegas by a bookie and a stripper... LOL:ack: ;)
 
Flyfish

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
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52
St. Louis
D Chapman

D Chapman

1
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
Glenn,
You can get a pump that will work at your local auto parts store. They run anywhere from $60 to $110. I like the Bosch brand since it has a metal impeller vs plastic. Part number E3270
Here is a write up on the process when you go with the pump only. http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html

The other alternative is to buy the entire unit - pump, housing, fuel sender, etc... I'm not sure what these are running these days. Will Tillery could probably get you a fair price, though. (434)251-9331
 
G

Glenn_Guinto

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
139
2
51
Central Valley, NY
whiterovers.tumblr.com
Thanks for all the replies!

Dan and Flyfish, great info on the fuel pump and write up! The only concern that I have is when I was looking at the RoversNorth website, they list 2 types of Fuel Pumps for the D1 (2 separate part numbers depending on VIN).

Of course, my 99D1 has a VIN that has the more expensive Fuel Pump :( $399 for Proline and $499 for Genuine LR. Something about later trucks having the "Advanced Evaporative Loss" feature or some crap like that.

Anyone been successful in utilizing the less expensive pump on 99D1s? Thanks again guys, really appreciate all the help!
 
D Chapman

D Chapman

1
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
First, Fuck Rovers North.

The two pumps are evap and non-evap. The only real difference is in the fuel pump housing and not the pump itself. The difference between a evap pump and a non-evap pump is the way the wire connect to the pump from the wiring harness. Non-evap uses spade terminals and evap uses a small wiring harness that clips in. These terminals are located on the pump itself, inside the fuel pump housing. It's two wires, + and -.

Your 1999 D1 has an evap system so it uses the evap pumo housing. That also means your actual fuel pump is connected with a small wiring harness. If you go with the auto parts store aftermarket fuep pump, you simply snip off the harness and crimp on some spade connectors. By doing this you save $300.

However, check with Tillery and get a price quote from him on the entire thing. He'll probably be 1/3rd the cost of RN.
 
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