Hi! I'm New with a 04 Disco II Coolant Question

dhessler

Member
Feb 29, 2016
14
0
hagerstown MD
Through an improper coolant flush and trapped air, a lube company fried my engine. Luckily, their insurance just bought a new (reman) engine which my mechanic is installing now.

I've read a great deal on this forum and others about the proper coolant to use. I have 2004 Disco II 4.6 engine with secondary air. With the new engine install, I want to start out right.

So is it Orange Dex-Cool? Peak Global Lifetime? Pentefrost SF? I read so many different opinions. I'm curious about your experiences with this issue.

Thanks!
Douglas
 

Maximumwarp

Well-known member
Mar 22, 2015
836
26
Fairburn GA
DexCool is supposed to be fine as long as you flush it regularly. The issues crop up when you leave it in there a long time.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
DexCool is supposed to be fine as long as you flush it regularly. The issues crop up when you leave it in there a long time.

X2. Ive been using Dexcool for the last 8 yrs with no issue. Just do a flush every year or two. Have him install a 180 Tstat while your there, Make sure its the grey factory one. not the yellowish one.

My truck will run down the highway at 75mph at 188 and idles around 200 in traffic. Around 195 city driving.
 

Rockbeard

Well-known member
Jul 18, 2015
80
0
memphis, tn
yes. stick with the red/orange stuff (silicate free i believe). our rovers have aluminum heads and blocks, radiators and cores too of course and the long life coolant is less harsh on these things than the green stuff. still, i don't care which flavor one uses, just give it a flush every 2 years if not sooner and you'll be fine.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
I think if I had a empty cooling system and everything flushed out really well I would consider changing over to green coolant. The way I understand the problems from dex cool is the way that when you get an air pocket in a system with dex cool you get the nasty corrosion and that sand looking shit that plugs everything up. Its because the surface is only protected from corrosion if the coolant is in contact with the metal of the engine. The green coolant leaves a slime like film on everything and protects even when there is an air pocket.
The GM S10 trucks with the 4.3 liter V6 is the best example I can think of where this was a problem. The whole thing happened because the plastic radiator cap they used would vent coolant when it was hot but not pull coolant from the reservoir when the system cooled off. Leaving a air pocket and causing the radiator to get all shitted up.
So I think maybe changing out to the green stuff might not be such a bad idea.
 
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mbrummal

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2009
2,894
22
Willow Spring, NC
I've run the green coolant in mine for about 8 years. I haven't had any problems because of the coolant. If it is completely flushed you shouldn't have a problem switching over.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
I always recommend switching to green. The mechanic will need to blow the old coolant out of the heater core if you decide to switch.
 

mlnnc

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
267
31
Charlotte
Through an improper coolant flush and trapped air, a lube company fried my engine. Luckily, their insurance just bought a new (reman) engine which my mechanic is installing now.

Please share the name of the lube shop. My engine is running fine but a new (reman) engine would be great.