how do i torque this axel nut?(sounds dumb)

gmookher

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Oct 30, 2004
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Grand Canyon State
I had to hit it with an impact wrench for a bit before the bugger came loose; its a 32mm nut and was gorilla force tight.

Now, how do I know how to set it-clamp the new one in a vice- and go buck wild witha torque wrench and a pipe?

is that okay to do?-clamp the shaft ina vice really tight to torque it?

or do I just hit it with the impact for a good while? thats not too scientific ya know... is there a ft pounds #?

04d2
 

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
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DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN TO TIGHTEN THE NUT...enough shouting. Is this front front or rear? For the rear, it need a bead of locktite and 325 ft of torque to set the axle shaft in the hub...download the rave cd, it's avaialble and will show you what needs to happen...
 
D

dling

Guest
Not to get off the subject, but on other vehicles I have done, dont you torque the axle nut down and then back it off a little so you arent causing unnecesary friction?
 

scottjal

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Mar 16, 2006
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Nashua, NH
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dling said:
Not to get off the subject, but on other vehicles I have done, dont you torque the axle nut down and then back it off a little so you arent causing unnecesary friction?

Yes, when you are referring to wheel bearings. Not the case with hub assemblies on DII.

And Mongo, not that I have done this or anything but the service manual doesn't mention that huge torque number or locktite?
 

gmookher

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Oct 30, 2004
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Grand Canyon State
so gents, is it 75 ft lbs or 325 ft lbs? this is important!

I trust rave, but where are you getting the 325 figure?? my toolset tops out at 1/2" drive.
That torque is 3/4 or 1" drive torque isnt it?

there was no locktite on the original threads on this bolt; so I replaced without; however all the other smalller bolts will be getting blue loctite.

the 75ft pounds 'bottoms' out the axel to the hub bearing assy. I went to 125ft lbs and found between 75 and 125 there was no visible movement- totally bottomed out. if you really think it needs more torque, its hard for me to apply more than 170 ft lbs as thats what i weigh, short of using a bigass lever

I will likely have to use the impact wrench to get it up that high-, niether autozone or sears had a torque wrench that can do 325 ft pounds in a 1/2 drive, and i couldnt find the 32mm socket in a 3/4 at either shop, so I didnt go looking to see if thay had a torque wrench that goes to 325 ft lbs..

btw way that IS gorilla level torque, beyond what most impact wrenches can even handle, so i suspect if it was 325 ft lbs I would need a few guys to torque this down

the bolt appears to be a softer brass so i didnt want to go crazy
please let me know what the spec is, I do drive this rigg on hwy also i need this bolt torqued right and SAFE
thx
 
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rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
It is 325 ft/lbs and you can use a 1 1/4" socket if you have that in 3/4 drive size. I haven't used locktite on mine but don't forget to crimp it when you get it tightened.
 

lforgue8

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Jul 23, 2006
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MA
Not to go against the rave cd or anything but I've doen countless hubs on d2's and ive never torqued them. run the nut donw and give a good go with your 1/2" impact. 7 years of doing these and no problmes yet....

I might get flame for that but it's worked for me every time
 

scottjal

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Mar 16, 2006
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Nashua, NH
scottjal.ath.cx
I think we have an english terminology difference here, below is what I was reading for that setting. We call these axle shafts and the book calls these drive shafts.

Refit (for the rear)
1. Clean drive shafts, wheel hubs and wheel hub locations in rear axle.
2. Using a suitable solvent, clean old RTV sealant from differential and axle mating faces.
3. Apply RTV sealant to differential or axle mating face.
4. Apply Loctite 243 to threads of differential securing bolts.
5. Fit differential to axle, fit bolts and tighten to 55 Nm (41 lbf.ft).
6. Clean pinion flange and centralising peg.
7. Using a tubular drift, fit centralising peg to pinion flange. Ensure that the large diameter part of the centralising peg is below pinion flange mounting surface.
8. Position propeller shaft and align reference marks.
9. Fit nuts and bolts securing flexible coupling to pinion flange and tighten to 76 Nm (56 lbf.ft)
10. Lubricate 2 new wheel hub 'O' rings with clean differential oil.
+CAPACITIES, FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS, Lubrication. Install 'O' rings on wheel hubs.
11. Fit LH and RH drive shafts and wheel hubs to rear axle. Fit wheel hub bolts and tighten to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft).
12. Connect each ABS sensor multiplug and secure harness to harness bracket and brake hose.
13. Fit LH and RH rear brake discs. +BRAKES, REPAIRS, Brake disc - rear.
14. Remove stand(s) and lower vehicle.
15. Fill differential with oil.
+MAINTENANCE, PROCEDURES,
Front and rear axle.
M51 0042B


This table is from the torque wrench settings:

Axles
TORQUE DESCRIPTION METRIC IMPERIAL
Differential to axle bolts 55 Nm (40 lbf.ft)
Hub to axle bolts 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft)
Pinion flange bolt 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft)
Drive shaft nut 490 Nm (360 lbf.ft)
 

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Mongo

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Apr 19, 2004
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wrongo buddy...drive shaft nuit 490nm/360 ft lbs. the 74 ft lbs is for the bolts that attach the hub assembly to the axle tube...page 06-10 of the fsm under axles...I've done this about 20 times, if you don't set the axle shaft with the proper torque, you'll destroy the hub in about 10k...page 64-26,under rear suspension, wheel hub please read it and post it, I'm using a mac so I can' t post the pdf...
 
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scottjal

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Mar 16, 2006
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Nashua, NH
scottjal.ath.cx
Mongo said:
wrongo buddy...drive shaft nuit 490nm/360 ft lbs. the 74 ft lbs is for the bolts that attach the hub assembly to the axle tube...page 06-10 of the fsm under axles...I've done this about 20 times, if you don't set the axle shaft with the proper torque, you'll destroy the hub in about 10k...page 64-26,under rear suspension, wheel hub please read it and post it, I'm using a mac so I can' t post the pdf...

I posted it two posts up, attachments to my post. I was wrong, you were right.
 

gmookher

Well-known member
Oct 30, 2004
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Grand Canyon State
Okay I got that part. thanks alot gents. still havent found a shop locally selling a torque wrench that goes that high(not available at napa, sears,autozone) tomorrow I'll try grainger and a local tranny shop
 
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lforgue8

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Jul 23, 2006
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I'm telling you guys 7 years of me installing these hub onto front or rear axles shafts and my ingersol 1/2" impact gun no high setting is fine....

No failures in 10k or bearing seals leaking or noises heard....

Just layinto it with your 1/2" gun and be done with it!
 

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
5,731
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I'm sure that air impact is probably a high torque one, right? If you can crank it up to 300 or 400lbs of torque, sure it would work...what if your impact is only rated for 200lbs...I'm sorry for telling someone how to do it right...
 
A

awatkins

Guest
I have two suggestions either of which seems safer to me than laying on with an impact wrench:

1. Get a large torque wrench. They do exist because there are lots of trucks/lorries etc. around who's mechanics need them. A friend is working on a Dodge truck chassis and uses the Harbor Freight 3293-6VGA wrench (US only, I'm afraid) with success. It costs under $200.
2. If you can't do that, apply some high-school physics via a long breaker bar (long 3/4" examples are readily available for little money, try Northern Tool or the aforementioned Harbor Freight). For example, for 360 lb-ft, apply 180 lb (happens to be what I weigh) two feet from the socket. Yes, it's tricky, so be careful and have a friend help you.

Either method is a hell of a lot more accurate than mis-using an impact wrench.
 
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