How hard to Pull Heads for Valve Job '99 D2?

mnwolftrack

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2004
353
0
Minnesota
It looks like my symptoms are pointing to a valve job with sticky valves on my newly aquired '99 D2 and have a few questions about pulling the heads (myself). I will then bring them in to a machine shop to do the offical valve job.

1. I'm wondering how long it takes the average person to get both heads pulled.

2. What new parts should I have on hand during reassembly (exhaust manifold gaskets, intake gaskets (valley pan? gasket), valve cover gaskets, belts, coolant, etc...

3. Any tips or tricks for the disassembly/reassembly? I plan on using my digital camera to document my progress.

4. How much money does this typically cost, between parts, machine shop work?

5. Where should I get replacement gaskets (e.g. OEM only or if aftermarket are ok).

I've done a lot of work on Toyotas from pulling engines, replacing head gaskets, to complete vehicle disassembly to sell for parts, so I'm not too neverous about doing this. But it would be my first major repair done on a Land Rover and I'm sure there's some in's and out's to it beyond what a manual might say (I don't have one yet but I plan to get the RAVE CD off Ebay).

Thanks!

mnwolftrack
 
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brianpack01

Guest
why?

Whats wrong with to truck to make you think you need a valve job? Also, talk to JAMMER about a rave CD. He will hook you up.
 

mnwolftrack

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2004
353
0
Minnesota
Thanks for the tip for Jammer.

I've got 2 or 3 other posts on here right now in addition to this one concerning the issues with my '99 D2. One is titled with '99 D2 codes P0300, P0305, P0306, and the other is titled with Help--Ran Seafoam. Those will give you some background info on what lead to my conclusions. I should also point out that I have a few more things to do before I confirm it 100% to be valves, but a '99 D2 with 102k and flashing and/or constant SES dash light never had a valve job done before, I'm sure it's due. I've replaced the wires (8mm magnecors), plugs (+4 Bosch), tried seafoam in the intake brake booster port and crank case (which seems to have made it worse), and no improvements. I may have to bring it in to a shop if I don't own the tools needed to perform the remaining diagnostics, though I don't want to because I enjoy doing the work myself. Only trouble is, I'm new to rovers (I know Toyotas really well though:D).
 
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brianpack01

Guest
valve job

Take it to the shop first. I have a DII w/95k.
No valve job yet. It ran like shit for a while, but it ended up being sensors. If you find out the price, let me know, Im also curious
 
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ShaunP

Guest
Try a compression test first. Pulling the heads off is easy, make sure you get the modified valves and giudes fitted when it's apart these were as a response to the US problems, rarly happens in OZ but we still fit them if you have one apart. Can you hear tappet noise when it's miss firing? I'm not sure if US cars have valve stem seals on the exhaust valves if they do I'd be temped to leave them off, let it burn a little oil. Not sure why the US ones have this problem, I suspect it due to off spec fuel.
 

mnwolftrack

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2004
353
0
Minnesota
I don't hear any ticking or knocking coming from the engine. In fact, I can't even tell when it's running ok vs. misbehaving short of the SES light coming on after I've cleared it. About the most I can possibly tell is that there's a possible "miss" sound coming from the exhaust pulsing sound. This sound is what seems to be clearing up through the use of seafoam.

If I end up pulling the heads, I will definately get the modified parts/better parts to try and prevent this type of problem from happening.