How long after computer clears for smog?

neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
34
2
Santa Barbara, CA
Does anyone know how long after clearing engine fault codes or repairing issues that trigger codes and the check engine light the D2 is ready to smog test?

I understand its usually a matter of miles that need to be driven before a car is clear for smog testing so that cars can’t be tested immediately after clearing codes.

Anyone know the exact mileage? I’m concerned since I’ve got a misfire code that keeps returning, but it’s been off since replacing CPS - possibly fixed?
 

luckyjoe

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2004
313
31
New Jersey USA
I believe it comes down to the car maker’s OBD non-continuous readiness monitors, which usually require “drive cycles” to be “ready” for inspection. Then it depends if your particular code falls under continuous or non-continuous readiness monitoring. Continuous readiness monitors do not require drive cycles.

My personal experience with a D1 and VW diesel - I’ve reset non-continuous readiness codes immediately prior to inspection and never had to run through drive cycles. I have no explanation why, but my OBD2 reader confirmed this.

Hopefully someone here knows more and will post these D2 cycles.
 
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bradartigue

Well-known member
Mar 7, 2018
112
16
Sandy Springs, Georgia
When I received my D2 I hunted for a good answer to this for weeks as I couldn't get two of them to clear. They were not clearing because the fuel pump seal on the truck didn't exist (I found this out when I filled the tank full for the first time and fuel came out of the top...someone had sealed it with some kind of silly putty). I replaced the pump and seal, reset the OBD2, and cleared all monitors within about 20 miles.

I've heard anything from 5 miles to 150; the smog person told me it took a minimum of "3 days" (probably the dumbest advice I was given, go figure, from the smog person). Some land rover guidance suggests to drive the truck at various speeds, sustaining certain speeds, etc. I didn't do any of that. I fixed the problems, reset the computer, and it progressively cleared the DTCs over 20 miles or so.
 
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neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
34
2
Santa Barbara, CA
I think I’m clear... hopefully the misfire code that was on until I replaced the CPS doesn’t return and disqualify the vehicle because of a check engine light. Wish me luck, I really need her to pass!
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
425
72
California
Does anyone know how long after clearing engine fault codes or repairing issues that trigger codes and the check engine light the D2 is ready to smog test?

I understand its usually a matter of miles that need to be driven before a car is clear for smog testing so that cars can’t be tested immediately after clearing codes.

Anyone know the exact mileage? I’m concerned since I’ve got a misfire code that keeps returning, but it’s been off since replacing CPS - possibly fixed?
[/QUOTE
I believe it comes down to the car maker’s OBD non-continuous readiness monitors, which usually require “drive cycles” to be “ready” for inspection. Then it depends if your particular code falls under continuous or non-continuous readiness monitoring. Continuous readiness monitors do not require drive cycles.

My personal experience with a D1 and VW diesel - I’ve reset non-continuous readiness codes immediately prior to inspection and never had to run through drive cycles. I have no explanation why, but my OBD2 reader confirmed this.

Hopefully someone here knows more and will post these D2 cycles.
If you drive it 50 miles, that should do it. It's a little less though, somewhere in the 40's or high 30's. Probably depends on what is getting reset, but 50 should cover any reset issues.
 

Dangeruss

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
104
1
Ontario, Canada
I had to drive at least 500km (over 300 mi.) to get mine to reset, and I was doing by the (RAVE) book drive cycles. I had 2 '04s that behaved similarly. Best part was my license sticker had expired during this and I already had the limit of 2 trip permits, so I was forced to drive illegally in order to renew my license to be legal. Thankfully our current government ditched the cash grab etest program this year.
 
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neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
34
2
Santa Barbara, CA
Passed smog in CA finally!

I read through the drive cycle procedures and tried my best to replicate them. I was feeling good, so I put my scanner on and ran a smog test readiness check. The scanned gave me the green light finally, so I took her into a smog shop I found online that was open til 6PM.

I just wanted to update y’all again saying that after I replaced the crankshaft position sensor (I was getting a misfire code I couldn’t figure out) and the purge valve, I ran a smog pre-test using my scanning tool and took my D2 into a smog shop. She passed. I can’t wait to get the registration sticker finally. I’m so relieved. California regulations are torture.

I only replaced the CPS when she died while at a stop and wouldn’t start, except for a few times here and there but died again. I thought I had a much more serious issue that had to do with the ticking and low compression in one of the cylinders. Just the CPS throwing that misfire code and causing her to stumble.

The purge valve was a relatively simple job, just a bit of fight with hoses, clamps and working in a somewhat tight area. I pulled the IAC hose off one end to get more space and disconnected some other connectors that were in the way. Now that I have an idea of what I’m doing, I’ll make a video if it happens again.

Getting to the CPS was a pain for me, by the way. Maybe someone has a better way about it.

I bought a Bosch CPS for $52 on Amazon - the best price I could find: Bosch Automotive 0261210158 Crankshaft Position Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049PK3HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FVUJDbHYXHRY0
 
Last edited:

specops1526

Well-known member
Jan 17, 2007
818
9
Los Angeles, CA
I'm having a similar issue right now. I've driven about 200 miles so far and have performed some of the drive cycles with no luck. Truck still says "not ready" on my ScanGaugeII. I don't have any codes showing either.

I had a similar issue on my D90. It took over 200 miles for it to show "ready."

Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do?
 

specops1526

Well-known member
Jan 17, 2007
818
9
Los Angeles, CA
I'm in CA so I doubt they would allow that...

I'll do some more driving again. Trying to complete the Drive Cycles exactly is nearly impossible unless you have a drag strip or open race track.
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
508
44
Suffolk, UK
What I did in Georgia was at a half full tank of fuel pour in a whole bottle of BG 44K or Berrymans or Seafoam, take it out on a deserted road, drive it like I stole it for 30 minutes, then go to the inspection garage. Passed every time.
 

specops1526

Well-known member
Jan 17, 2007
818
9
Los Angeles, CA
What I did in Georgia was at a half full tank of fuel pour in a whole bottle of BG 44K or Berrymans or Seafoam, take it out on a deserted road, drive it like I stole it for 30 minutes, then go to the inspection garage. Passed every time.
Willing to try anything at this point!
 

specops1526

Well-known member
Jan 17, 2007
818
9
Los Angeles, CA
Just an update...I ran Drive Cycles A and B again and the ScanGauge gave me a "Ready" finally. Drove over 200 miles total. I also unplugged my ScanGauge during the Cycles as someone suggested. I plugged it back in at the end of each Cycle for the scan only. Took it to get a Smog check today and passed. Hope to never go through that again.
 

specops1526

Well-known member
Jan 17, 2007
818
9
Los Angeles, CA
Yeah, thanks. What a pain. Just glad I'm over one hurdle and now on to get it registered. After that I can finally get on with all the work I want to do on the truck...

Ah interesting to know about the Evap monitor. Glad it came back online though for my smog check.

Hopefully this thread helps anyone with similar issues in the future.