There are tons of threads out there with bits and pieces of information about how to fix a rear hatch that won't open. I decided to combine all pertinent information into one how-to thread. I hope this helps someone out.
Since it was my cable that was broken, this thread will apply to that. If you have an electrical issue, this may give you a guideline. You will know if it's the cable if you hit the release and hear the actuator move, but the hatch stays closed. From there, climb in the back wit two flat head screwdrivers, or other prying tools of your choice.
Work the first screwdriver under the plastic trim on the bottom hatch. Pry upwards to work the second screwdriver under the plastic trim and catch the carpet pad. Make sure you are moving the plastic backing on the carpet, not just the carpet itself. It will come off and look bad (ask me how I know). Wedge the screwdrivers under the carpet and work them to get the carpet pried out from the plastic trim.
Once the carpet pad is pryed enough to get your hands behind the carpet, you will have to cut open the water shedder (the black foam). Feel the spot that's open behind the water shedder and open it up. Don't do like I did and take off the entire water shedder, it's not necessary. The picture shows where you need to cut open the water shedder.
Now that you can get inside the opening, you will see the black cable running from the hatch release to the release actuator. Follow it to the left and feel if the "L" bracket on the end is broken or just popped out of the channel. Mine was broken so I just pulled the cable and the upper hatch popped open. Remember to pull the cable towards the passenger side of the truck. This was one of the greatest moments of my life!
Now you remove the four screw caps and screws from the top of the bottom hatch. Remove the clips from the tailgate guide cables and unbolt the ball from the tailgate. The trim should come off now.
Now that the trim is removed, I unplugged the electrical connector and unbolted the actuator from the tailgate so I could take it out and work on it more easily. Once it's out, you can start rebuilding your cable assembly.
I purchased a swaging tool, 1/16" cable and a couple packs of 1/16" ferrules. The factory cable is 1/16", so you'll need these sizes of cable and ferrules. Cut off a ~6" piece of wire and make a loop around the end of the actuator. Pull the cable tight and swag? the ferrule on the cable, securing the loop. Next cut off the remnants of the factory "L" end of the hatch release cable and put the ends through another ferrule, swaging it together. You should now have the hatch release cable sturdier than the factory setup.
Plug the actuator back in and close the hatch to confirm it works. When it does, make sure the actuator is bolted back in if you removed it and cover up the new hole. I duct taped over the water shedder.
Reverse the trim removal steps and button everything back up. Celebrate your now-functioning hatch!
Since it was my cable that was broken, this thread will apply to that. If you have an electrical issue, this may give you a guideline. You will know if it's the cable if you hit the release and hear the actuator move, but the hatch stays closed. From there, climb in the back wit two flat head screwdrivers, or other prying tools of your choice.
Work the first screwdriver under the plastic trim on the bottom hatch. Pry upwards to work the second screwdriver under the plastic trim and catch the carpet pad. Make sure you are moving the plastic backing on the carpet, not just the carpet itself. It will come off and look bad (ask me how I know). Wedge the screwdrivers under the carpet and work them to get the carpet pried out from the plastic trim.
Once the carpet pad is pryed enough to get your hands behind the carpet, you will have to cut open the water shedder (the black foam). Feel the spot that's open behind the water shedder and open it up. Don't do like I did and take off the entire water shedder, it's not necessary. The picture shows where you need to cut open the water shedder.
Now that you can get inside the opening, you will see the black cable running from the hatch release to the release actuator. Follow it to the left and feel if the "L" bracket on the end is broken or just popped out of the channel. Mine was broken so I just pulled the cable and the upper hatch popped open. Remember to pull the cable towards the passenger side of the truck. This was one of the greatest moments of my life!
Now you remove the four screw caps and screws from the top of the bottom hatch. Remove the clips from the tailgate guide cables and unbolt the ball from the tailgate. The trim should come off now.
Now that the trim is removed, I unplugged the electrical connector and unbolted the actuator from the tailgate so I could take it out and work on it more easily. Once it's out, you can start rebuilding your cable assembly.
I purchased a swaging tool, 1/16" cable and a couple packs of 1/16" ferrules. The factory cable is 1/16", so you'll need these sizes of cable and ferrules. Cut off a ~6" piece of wire and make a loop around the end of the actuator. Pull the cable tight and swag? the ferrule on the cable, securing the loop. Next cut off the remnants of the factory "L" end of the hatch release cable and put the ends through another ferrule, swaging it together. You should now have the hatch release cable sturdier than the factory setup.
Plug the actuator back in and close the hatch to confirm it works. When it does, make sure the actuator is bolted back in if you removed it and cover up the new hole. I duct taped over the water shedder.
Reverse the trim removal steps and button everything back up. Celebrate your now-functioning hatch!
Last edited:
