hub nut size

[Steve]

If you are asking out of sincerity, it is because I have asked this very question before of a mechanical engineer. It is also common sense. Suggesting that the numbers are made up means that it could easily have been 25 ft.lbs. instead of 45. Would 25 be enough to properly seat the bearings? No. The number was arrived at through testing.

In the specific case at hand does the method you described work, yes. I wouldn't wait around stranded for the correct tools if they were not available. Once I was able to get back home or wherever convenient, I'd do it properly. It appeared that Mr. Dent was looking for the correct tool to do it properly as well.

 

[p m]

Yes, Steve, I was asking from sincerity. We've had a debate on how airbags are deployed - in our trucks and in general, and there was a fellow PE on board who knew exactly how the sensors were set up and triggered. That basically closed the argument.
No doubt, there are some numbers one has to stick to - along with the complete procedure. Say, to say "head bolts need to be torqued to X lb-ft" means nothing if it isn't specified whether the bolts must be dry, or oiled. The penalty to err by a factor of two on either side is rather severe.
In the hub nut case, the same torque setting can result in the hub spinning free or completely locked. Engineers (who supposedly wrote the manual) would err on the side of caution, and suggest the initial torque (to settle the bearings) larger than necessary, and final torque that is most likely less than optimal. They did specify the endplay of the hub, however - and that's a more important number.
Let me wrap it up - Sam may have a kick ass torque wrench with something like 300lb-ft max setting, which would be largely useless for this purpose. So, the proper procedure, in your terms, must include the end-float gauge, rather than torque wrench. Moreover, the endfloat will change as the bearings settle, so, in proper terms, one need to recheck it a few hundred miles later.
Then, the results of not exactly following this procedure, but with some common sense, are likely to be exactly the same.

Having worked as an engineer for many years, I feel that "half-ass" term is not necessarily equivalent to "common sense," - therefore the rant. 10-7 on this matter,

 

[Steve]

Like I said, if you have the proper tools, do it right. I'm glad you've finally come out and agreed that the numbers are not made up. I'm fully aware of the proper procedure. I've read the manual as well.

 

[p m]

I'm glad you've finally come out and agreed that the numbers are not made up.

You must be a democrat, Steve. I've just shown _how_ the numbers are made up... LOL

 

[Steve Rupp]

I'm with Peter and Marc on this one. Setting the preload on wheel bearings is NOT rocket science. I've done it thousands of times never with a torque wrench and have never fucked up a bearing or race. If you are concerned about not getting the races on all the way when you replace them, like Peter said- take it for a ride around the block and check the preload again. This is not something that should be as scientific as setting up diffs or rebuilding an engine.