hub nut

[dent]

I'm doing a brake job this weekend and changing out the rotors aswell... got my hands on a hub tool but it does not have a drive on it (either a 1/2 or 3/8). Instead it's got 2 holes on the either end to fit a tommy bar which is no big deal. Went through the repair manual and says i should torque it down. If i have a tommy bar on this, how am I suppose to torque it? did i get the wrong tool for the job? Is there a way I can tighten the nut down without torquing it?
thanks
sam

 

[Eric N.]

I have the same thing and I hate it. I would go and get yourself a deep socket that is the same size. May be hard to find and most likely will be expensive too but, at least then you will be able to set the torque correctly. Which is all most impossible to do with the one you have now. I bought mine at a fund raiser thing so it doesn't really bother me since the money went to a good cause. However, it is only good for taking the nuts off not puting them back on ( well not correctly anyway ).

 

[bri]

So what is the size of that sucka.

 

[dent]

tis big... either a 2 1/16" or 52mm :S and i don't think a 1/2 drive would fit one of those suckers... prolly a 1" or 1 1/2" ? so putting it back on.. with what i got, there's no tricks to make sure the wheel is going to spin properly and isn't too lose?

 

[Tom in MD]

Damn I miss the archives...

I know there was a discussion, just before the site went down. In it, Trevor Griffiths wrote about this. Something about torqing to one value, then backing off some number of turns. Double Damn !

I'll check the manual when I get home to see if it addresses the torque question.

 

[Mike_Rupp]

The Haynes manual says to torque the nut to 45 lb/ft. This will fully seat the bearings. Then fully loosen the nut and retorque to 3 lb/ft. This should set the preload correctly. You can confirm by using a dial indicator to measure the float of the hub (.01 mm is correct).

With above tool, just tighten the nut pretty hard to seat the bearings, then back off and snug it up. Most people will set the bearing preload by feel.

I just bought a 52 MM hub nut tool from the UK. Its got a 1/2" drive and looks to be pretty decent. I'll report back if the thing when I get it.

 

[Sergei]

Actually there is 1/2 drive 2 1/16 hubnut thingy in your local checkers autoshop.. But it fits kinds of funny. Still - can be used to do job

However easiest way -
1) torque inner nut as much as you can (without stripping anything. Toquq value is 78Nm, if you care), shake wheel as much as you can, tighten some more. That should seat bearings. SHOULD is key word here . Then undo bolt. Presumably you do it by making 1/4 move back, but in reality better to undo bolt, and tighten it by fingers. That should be about right.
2) stick washer on
3) stick outer nut on, torque it to 78Nm (or just about 50ft)

bend washer and do usual fluff afterwards.

You may want to repeat 1-2 couple times to insure proper bearing seating. First time i done mine it took me few times to reseat (including driving around a bit, to really shake things).

 

[geoff]

Torque the nut as hard as you can to seat the bearings. Spin the hub a few times to assure they are fully seated, then back off the nut and tighten to 10Nm which is just past hand tight. The hub should spin with slight effort - there is drag from the inner hub seal.

When you put the wheel back on you should feel no play if you rock the wheel back and forth with your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Check it again after about 100 miles if you want to be sure. The nut can loosen just a little depending on how you bend the lock washer.

 

[dent]

these this site never seizes to amaze me.. the knowledge base here is fantasic... much appreciated everyone and wish me luck... if i feel up to it might takes some pics and slap it to the tech section....
take care