Ignition Amplifier relocation kit

Jdf8612

New member
Aug 4, 2021
4
2
New Hampshire
Well...
Hoping to resolve the -55% long term fuel trim issue, I swapped in a brand new ignition amplifier from Bearmach last Friday.
Fuel trim issue didn't have time to get resolved - the module died on Sunday afternoon.
The old ignition module is back in, ONLY until the Pertronix GM-4-pin-style module and heat sink arrive.

The 14CUX ignition setup is an amazing collection of junk parts.
What part numbers did you order?
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,035
377
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Well...
Hoping to resolve the -55% long term fuel trim issue, I swapped in a brand new ignition amplifier from Bearmach last Friday.
Fuel trim issue didn't have time to get resolved - the module died on Sunday afternoon.
The old ignition module is back in, ONLY until the Pertronix GM-4-pin-style module and heat sink arrive.

The 14CUX ignition setup is an amazing collection of junk parts.
Look forward to hearing how this turns out.

Also saw this:

839B6423-645E-4B60-9B6F-50BA781E2D54.jpeg
 
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p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
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The amplifier relocation kit shown at your picture is what all three of my 95 Classics have - I suspect, from the factory.
The idiocy of the solution is that it puts the amplifier right next to the radiator tank, negating probably a lot of the gains of moving it away from the engine.

But now, with - I suspect - 100% of the replacement amplifiers coming from China, they are fickle off the bat. All electronics comes from China, but, at least, I'd like to use a hopefully more heavy-duty part so it works for a little longer. And, of course, you can buy 4-pin GM-style modules in most part stores.
 
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Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,035
377
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
The amplifier relocation kit shown at your picture is what all three of my 95 Classics have - I suspect, from the factory.
The idiocy of the solution is that it puts the amplifier right next to the radiator tank, negating probably a lot of the gains of moving it away from the engine.

But now, with - I suspect - 100% of the replacement amplifiers coming from China, they are fickle off the bat. All electronics comes from China, but, at least, I'd like to use a hopefully more heavy-duty part so it works for a little longer. And, of course, you can buy 4-pin GM-style modules in most part stores.
Unfortunately very true on China suppling probably 100% of available electronics. Again looking forward to seeing this come to fruition. Could be a great sticky for others to try especially the wiring aspect and location.
 
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p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Tom, the Lucas kit (in the picture you posted) is slightly different from others - the heat sink has a slot for the connector that goes into the face of the ignition module. The connector has a tab, and the slot retains the connector mechanically.
Powerspark kit doesn't have it, and all that holds the connector is dry friction in the pins.
I bought the aftermarket kit before I learned that my 95s already have the Lucas kits installed.
 

p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Strange as it may sound, after getting to know 14cux, I actually prefer it to GEMS.
I put a lot more miles on GEMS trucks than on 14CUX - probably 300kmi total vs. about 180-200k on 14CUX.
The only hard failure of a GEMS I encountered was when the reluctor ring completely fell off the flywheel. That happened around 275kmi on the original engine, and I knew it was coming.
No other sensors failed. I gave that Disco to a friend with original O2 sensors at 292kmi mark.
In comparison, 14CUX requires near-constant tinkering to keep it in good shape.
 
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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Out of curiosity why did Landy Rover switch to GEMS?
We’ll what p m said and then just the normal transition from moving parts. General Motors moved away from distributors in the early 80’s. Had all the same issues with camshafts knocking on the front cover without the helical cut gear holding the cam rearward. Same crank sensor issues till they figured that out.
People like what they understand, that’s normal. I thought the sky was falling when they stopped putting carburetors on cars and went to fuel injection.
 
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p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Hi Peter,

so what’s your plan here? Create your own harness and located this bad boy over by the coil? Which 4pins cross reference to the equivalent 3-pin on the rover unit?
temporarily on hold - but parts are in the garage.
The harness is piece of cake - I'd love to know what connector is used on the distributor side (RobertF - you must know the entire Amphenol catalog by heart).
The plan is this -
- make the cable from the distributor to two input pins on the 4-pin GM-style amplifier. One of the 3 pins in the Lucas amp is ground/shield, so a two-foot shot of dual teflon-insulated, copper-jacketed, microphone cable should be perfect.
- connection of the output pins of the GM amp is also straightforward - one to battery/coil (+), another to coil (-). Whatever wires go to the coil from the other harness remain in place.
- The heat sink will likely be a square 4"x4" or larger piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, maybe a shallow channel. The amp is bolted to the heat sink, which in its turn is mounted on the radiator support wall between the radiator and opening for the left headlight. You can make it so that the intake trumpet of the airbox is almost in front of the amp. Don't forget heat-conducting grease between the amp and heat sink, and some would be useful behind the heat sink as well.

I need to replace the broken vacuum advance can first, then I'll move on.
 
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robertf

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Jan 22, 2006
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I don't know rrc stuff, but I got the harness off my 95 I can look at next week that I think is factory, unless the dealer swapped it without my knowledge.

busy right now
 

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nosivad_bor

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Mar 27, 2004
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Pittsburgh, PA
temporarily on hold - but parts are in the garage.
The harness is piece of cake - I'd love to know what connector is used on the distributor side (RobertF - you must know the entire Amphenol catalog by heart).
The plan is this -
- make the cable from the distributor to two input pins on the 4-pin GM-style amplifier. One of the 3 pins in the Lucas amp is ground/shield, so a two-foot shot of dual teflon-insulated, copper-jacketed, microphone cable should be perfect.
- connection of the output pins of the GM amp is also straightforward - one to battery/coil (+), another to coil (-). Whatever wires go to the coil from the other harness remain in place.
- The heat sink will likely be a square 4"x4" or larger piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, maybe a shallow channel. The amp is bolted to the heat sink, which in its turn is mounted on the radiator support wall between the radiator and opening for the left headlight. You can make it so that the intake trumpet of the airbox is almost in front of the amp. Don't forget heat-conducting grease between the amp and heat sink, and some would be useful behind the heat sink as well.

I need to replace the broken vacuum advance can first, then I'll move on.
Thanks Peter. A little premature for me. I have spark comming out of the coil but nothing heading to the spark plugs. Truck stalled out while driving, otherwise no issues. Now it won’t restart. I’ll replace the ignition amp with a standard one and see what happens. 134637F3-E5FA-475E-80B0-781A66F5C646.jpeg
 
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