Instrument pod/panel cracling/buzzing noise

[robertofollia]

Hi all,
Just looking for some input from you about a nasty instrument pod noise
It's 99 D2, 5-speed, no SAI.
It happens on cold mornings when I turn the ignition on before start-up. That nasty crackling/buzzing noise.
If I swtich the ignition off and switch it on again it does not reappear.
On the move, whenever I reach 2800-3500rpm there it is again, always when the instrument pod is cold (I mean the car has been run for less than 15 minutes).
In neutral and stopped I rev the engine and the noise does not return.

It's not the Intake temperature sensor fan, as it has been cleaned and it's silent and has no play
Relays are OK, checked with stethoscope and renewed the ignition coil one for safe being. A relay buzzes if voltage is low or if it's faulty. On the move relays get enough voltage, don't they?


Could it be something as stupid as the (even more stupid) bong-speaker situated behing the speedo? Noise comes from there and when the noise appears one can feel the faintest vibration on the instrument pod cover. Could be the wires to the speaker or the speaker itself.
But the bong-bong-bongs are clearly audible whenever I leave my lights on on purpose,

Any input should be greatly appreciated-

Will begin by unplugging the speaker to see if it does any difference
Best regards and thank you.

Robert

 

[kennith]

There's a dumb-ass little fan behind a small vent in the black trim to the left of the steering wheel. I never did bother to find out what the damned thing's purpose is. They make some funny sounds when they dust up or begin to fail.

Mine needs replacement, but I figured I'd just see if a fan from a northbridge chipset would work.

Of course, you may have another issue entirely. It's worth checking to see if that's where the noise is coming from, though. If you don't have a stethoscope or useful ears, stick the round dial on a meat thermometer to your hear and the sharp end to the fan grille.

You can also drive a nail through a bottle cap or jar top. Anything like that will work. Long, thin metal object for probing connected to a flat bit for your ear. Just find something of that nature, or make it. In a pinch a screwdriver will work.

If it's not the fan, poke around the binnacle, but don't touch the electronics, obviously. Such a device will allow you to pinpoint funny noises.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[listerdiesel]

I've just got my dashboard out to look at a heater leak (turns out not to be the heater though) and there isn't a lot in there to give problems.

The speaker could have something on the cone, one of the two retaining clips might be loose or you could have something from the bodywork touching the back of the dash and causing the noise to appear to come from the binnacle.

Peter

 

[jafir]

I'm assuming the gauges are driven by motors, perhaps one of them is going bad.

 

[robertofollia]

Next weekend (02/11) I am going to take it apart and first disconnect the speaker and see what happens then.

At first I suspected the motors could be culprit, but as the buzzing/crackling begins as early as the ignition is turned on and lasts for 3 seconds, when the temp and fuel gauges have already reached their operating positions.

It might be the speaker, or maybe the wires, or a dry or broken solder joint, but will begin by unplugging the speaker and see what happens.
I've just found that video, I know it's not a LR but it's the same noide
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxiQ9WZT1i8
Take a look at that vid and skip up to seconds 0:31 and listen, just between seconds 0:32 and 0:33, mine does exactly the same noise, before the sound cuts off, but does it only when driving and between 3000-4,000 rmp, regardless of road speed, and sometimes when I turn the ignition on after a prolonged stop and cold temperature.

Might not be the speaker and might be the stepper motors moving the needles.
Best regards and thank you

Robert

 

[robertofollia]

Finally fixed.
The cause? Battery was moving, and one of the terminals was loose. Vibrations caused by engine rpms and bad road surface made that terminal do bad contact intermittently, and that caused the buzzing/crackling noise.
Now solved