Is 212F to 215F too hot for engine temp?

[Longtallsally]

As I continue to research and learn about these trucks, I see a lot of cooling issues. The head gaskets were done on the Truck before I bought it so I'd like to keep from having to do them again real soon.

Anyway, reading from a phone app (OBD Fusion) I am getting ROCK SOLID temps (in any driving, up hill, freeway, stop and go,etc) toggling between 212F and 215.6F. The system must be working as it does not go higher (did get 217 once, but I was going 80mph), but everything I have read says it should be around 200.

Should I be scared and look to do the 180F t stat?

 

[The Fourth Amigo]

212°F (100°C) is a bit too high. I would replace the t-stat with a 180°F model. I have been using a Motorad 180° for almost two years with no trouble.

The factory t-stat would open at 204°F (96°C)

 

[Longtallsally]

Ok. That's what I thought. Great Basin Rovers said it is a scoshe high, but it's consistent and somewhat normal as it is set up from the factory to run hotter due to emissions.

Since the cooling system seems to be working due to the stability, are there any other tricks? I'll check the fan clutch too, but as it doesn't matter the driving conditions, I assume it's good.

Does anyone put an electric fan in these?

 

[Longtallsally]

I found this too: http://landroverforums.com/forum/general-tech-help-8/chevy-fan-more-air-pictures-44044/

Basically a swap to a GM truck fan that pretty much a direct replacement.

I'm thinking I do that, a 180F t stat and either flush the radiator or replace, and I should be good for cooling (water pump is new).

 

[The Fourth Amigo]

There is an electric fan. Its called the condenser fan. Its operation is a function ambient temp, engine, temp, vehicle speed and AC setting. I'm sure the parameters are posted here somewhere. You should check to see if this fan is operating. I know mine wasn't when I first bought my DII. The motor was seized.

 

[best4x4]

That fan blade mentioned above doesn't fit a D2. That appears to be for a 94-99 D1.

If you want a direct drop in replacement for a 99-04 D2 get the 620-112 Dorman Fan Blade. It's $25.00 and in stock at most Auto Zone's. Then get a 99-02 D2 fan clutch and call it a day (03-04 Fan Blade/Fan Clutch are one piece units). No modifying it, no cutting, no drilling, just 100% bolt on ready.

I highly recommend the OEM Grey 180F LR Thermostat, and switching to green coolant vs the dexcool stuff.

 

[Tugela]

To round out your cooling system peace of mind you should consider a new water pump, as well. Potentially also hoses. Remember: something in the cooling system may have contributed to the overheating that led to head gasket failure. If the head gaskets have been replaced but the underlying source is still there you haven't really addressed the cause of the failure. You're doing the smart thing by monitoring your temps.

 

[Longtallsally]

There is an electric fan. Its called the condenser fan. Its operation is a function ambient temp, engine, temp, vehicle speed and AC setting. I'm sure the parameters are posted here somewhere. You should check to see if this fan is operating. I know mine wasn't when I first bought my DII. The motor was seized.

Ah right. I know about condenser fans very well, but now have learned that the Disco uses it to assist in cooling. So is there a lower temp thermostat switch for the condenser fan? I've done AC overhauls previously, so I know AC systems pretty well.

What temp should it be coming on? And I'm assuming the condenser fan comes on as soon as the AC is turned on? AC system is working, but the details would be great.

That fan blade mentioned above doesn't fit a D2. That appears to be for a 94-99 D1.

If you want a direct drop in replacement for a 99-04 D2 get the 620-112 Dorman Fan Blade. It's $25.00 and in stock at most Auto Zone's. Then get a 99-02 D2 fan clutch and call it a day (03-04 Fan Blade/Fan Clutch are one piece units). No modifying it, no cutting, no drilling, just 100% bolt on ready.

I highly recommend the OEM Grey 180F LR Thermostat, and switching to green coolant vs the dexcool stuff.

Winner winner chicken dinner.

THANKS for the info guys!!!!! I'm sorry if I'm asking dippy noob questions, but I'm trying to learn as much as I can as fast as I can on critical (and known to have issues) systems to keep the truck in good running order until I start to formulate a long term plan for it.

 

[Longtallsally]

To round out your cooling system peace of mind you should consider a new water pump, as well. Potentially also hoses. Remember: something in the cooling system may have contributed to the overheating that led to head gasket failure. If the head gaskets have been replaced but the underlying source is still there you haven't really addressed the cause of the failure. You're doing the smart thing by monitoring your temps.

Gaskets were preventatively replaced on the donor motor that was put in along with a new water pump and front cover or whatever that thing that likes to leak up there.

My thoughts are really that the simple temp switch replacement, lower t stat, and verify the radiator is doing it's job and isn't clogged, as well as a better fan (in addition to verifying condenser fan function) and I should have a pretty solid system.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[The Fourth Amigo]

What temp should it be coming on? And I'm assuming the condenser fan comes on as soon as the AC is turned on? AC system is working, but the details would be great.



Its all in the manual. (RAVE)

I initially tested mine after replacement, by jumping out the under hood relay with a couple of spade terminals and a short length of wire. If its cold out it may be hard to reach all the necessary parameters for the condenser fan to activate.

From the operating temperatures you posted I think it should be coming on. Just try to turn it with a stick or something through the grille. Check the fuse.

 

[pinkytoe69]

What temp should it be coming on? And I'm assuming the condenser fan comes on as soon as the AC is turned on?

Pretty sure it's 208 or 210, and yes.

 

[K-rover]

Pretty sure it's 208 or 210, and yes.

210 is when mine comes on, but since I did the factory 180 tstat I havent seen 210 yet. On the hottest of days at Idle I reach 203 then it settles at 201. Normal traffic 195. Highway cruising 188.

Condenser fan motors are notorious for locking up by the way...

 

[number9]

Electric cooling fan switching points:
For A/C system:
⇒ On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient
temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
⇒ Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient
temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
⇒ On 100 °C (212 °F)
⇒ Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat
soak):
⇒ On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140
°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
⇒ Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C
(212 °F)

Most recommend against the Motorad stat and for the LR Grey one. Been using this one for about a year and works for me.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/PEM100990-MFG1110.aspx
...;...;

 

[Longtallsally]

Once again, thanks guys.

I downloaded the RAVE manual, but I'm in the Apple ecosystem, and it's a PITA to get over to the Windoze side of things there, so I can't seem to get it right. I can read all the PDFs, but it's all cryptic and hard to navigate. Anyway, that's another discussion.

So I went out and am starting to spend a little time under the truck and under the hood to familiarize myself.

The coolant temp sensor is on the passenger side lower part of the radiator the back side (facing the cab), correct? I think I might replace it anyway.

Also, the other temp sensor is on the water pump housing or that front cover? In a quick inspection, I couldn't find it.

Thanks so much for being patient. Once I can get the RAVE up and running, my noob questions should come to and end.

 

[best4x4]

If you have SAI you will have two temp sensors. The one that gives the P1117 "should" be the one mounted on the radiator if you have SAI.

The other temp sensor is mounted to the intake manifold just above the water pump. To gain better access to that one remove the serpentine belt, and loosen the 4 10mm bolts that secure the A/C Compressor to the engine accessory bracket. Then simply just move it out of the way. Then you should have easy access to the main coolant temp sensor.

The P1117 can trip in cold weather as the engine doesn't always reach the optimized temp quick enough and it sets the P1117 fault. I've also seen it trip that fault on SAI equipped vehicles when the sensor is un-plugged or left dangling due to someone installing a non SAI radiator as well.

 

[Longtallsally]

Thanks and I think I was correct for the temp sensor.

I just went out and started it up to see if I could get the condenser fan on. I could not. To be sure, it is the one on the front of the condenser that you can see through the grill, yes? It looks plugged in and I may not have gotten things hot enough, but unsure.

I ran the AC in the rear and turned the front down to low after the temp from OBD fusion read 212F.

Something interesting occurred that apparently I'm still learning the HVAC system. When I turned "ECON" off, the idle rose a hundred or so RPM. What was the difference there? It seemed like another fan kicked in when I did this and was just with the heat on, but still nothing from the fan in front of the condenser.

All this probably should be caveated with the fact that it was 22F when I did this test.

 

[K-rover]

Can you spin the condenser fan by hand? If not, it needs replacing

 

[Longtallsally]

If it needs replacing, $450?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Damn, that's a little ridiculous. I know I could find one used, but SHEESH!!! Certainly going to try to spin it by hand tomorrow...

 

[The Fourth Amigo]

If it needs replacing, $450?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Damn, that's a little ridiculous. I know I could find one used, but SHEESH!!! Certainly going to try to spin it by hand tomorrow...

https://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=62429&highlight=condenser+fan


Don't worry you don't have to spend anywhere near $450.00. I figured that out a while ago. Just review the link above.

 

[K-rover]

https://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=62429&highlight=condenser+fan


Don't worry you don't have to spend anywhere near $450.00. I figured that out a while ago. Just review the link above.

That and there are plenty of parts breakers that can hook you up with a cheap used one if need be.

Part of owning/maintaining these trucks is knowing where to get quality used parts or generic equivalent. If I had to pay full LR retail for parts. My truck would have been gone yrs ago.