It's a ticker. 04 Discovery V8

mydamnwell

Member
Jan 30, 2025
7
2
NJ
Hello everyone. I have a 2004 Disco with the classic and potentially terminal engine tick. Normally I wouldn't have much hope, especially after all the reading I've done over the past week. However I'd still like to present this case to you all. I am looking for opinions on where to go next. Body is great, frame is about as good as you'll get in the northeast usa, interior is quite clean too. Transmission, tcase, driveline all feels great, still has the original front driveshaft. 😬 As the story goes... this was owned by a very nice geriatric who bought it new, loved it for many years. She got into some trouble with her eyesight and the Disco was parked. Weeks turned to months, months into years. It was serviced and put into storage at some point in that first year. She never did get back behind the wheel. Here we are nearly five years later. I purchased it for a pittance.

The patient is a 4.6l V8, it has 103,000 miles. It is more or less untouched, never had any sort of major repair or overhaul. Coolant lines weep, valve covers are wet, oil pan is wet, but nothing has commingled. The oil is clean and free of coolant and vice versa. Aside from various drips it does not consume coolant. One particular drip is coming from the rear of the engine and landing right on the drive shaft. Nothing measurable but it weeps.

Problem 1 is that it ticks after warming up. Oh yes, we all know this one. In my case it sounds like the upper rear valve cover area. A singular tapping that sounds light, like a rod or lifter, not heavy like the loose sleeves I've heard in videos.

Problem 2 is the oil pressure. Good and strong on a cold start, but once it idles down the oil lamp comes on. Thicker oil delayed things but the lamp comes on and stays on. Running the HVAC raises the rpm just enough to keep it off though. I will try and get pressure readings this week.

Problem 3 is the two rear spark plugs closest to firewall look suspiciously light colored. None of the eight cylinders are 'washed' from coolant but are instead a bit oily and have a layer of carbon/black junk. Cylinder walls look fine.

I suppose my main question is whether this motor is worth sinking money into. Simply check for a bad oil pump? Move on to head gasket diagnostics and replacement? Dump a can of seafoam in and give 'er an Italian tune up? Or do I just assume this thing needs a new engine given the known issues and age... What would you do? Thanks for any advice.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20250204_162103191.jpg
    PXL_20250204_162103191.jpg
    178.4 KB · Views: 21
  • PXL_20250204_164358994.jpg
    PXL_20250204_164358994.jpg
    154.2 KB · Views: 21
  • PXL_20250131_141648096.jpg
    PXL_20250131_141648096.jpg
    298.1 KB · Views: 21

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,816
1,010
59
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
I wouldn't do anything till you get a reliable oil pressure reading.
2004s should not have the front cover dowel issue, but as with anything Land Rover-related, nothing is set in stone. It may have a broken oil pump gear - it'll work for a while and produce some oil pressure, before the engine warms up.

Take it with a grain of salt - I have never owned a D2 and made multiple wrong statements about them in the past.
 

Grum.man

Well-known member
Mar 2, 2024
68
30
Sanford NC
Plugs look fine. These engines seem to run a long time with the knock. Most get embarrassed by the sound before it becomes terminal. Low oil pressure could be worn bearings or the typical broken oil pump gear or worn housing. If it's leaking coolant from the back of the engine it's most likely a bad head gasket.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WaltNYC

mydamnwell

Member
Jan 30, 2025
7
2
NJ
Appreciate it! I noticed those two plugs were lighter than the others but I guess the electrode itself isn't too bad. The others all looked similar to this one. Sounds like a good first step is to pick up an electronic oil gauge. I have a compression tester but given that the engine runs well (aside from the tick and oil light at idle) I'm not sure I need to get into that just yet. Pressure testing the cooling system is also on my radar. I don't want to grenade the engine but if oil pressure and head gasket problems can be ruled out I will run it with the tick and not worry about it. Part of me wants to believe it's just gummed up after sitting for years. Pouring several thousand dollars into a vehicle that cost me a few hundred is a tricky proposition, especially since I only plan to use it once in awhile for grocery runs and putting around the farm. It's a very charismatic car even with it's flaws, she's begging for another chance to get out and explore.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20250204_170650496.jpg
    PXL_20250204_170650496.jpg
    187.9 KB · Views: 7
  • Like
Reactions: p m

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
345
168
Atlanta, GA
Are you mechanically inclined? Do you have a good machine shop near you?

If so, do 1) head gaskets with rebuild heads, 2) replace the oil pump gears, and 3) water pump. Check for cam bearing alignment when you pull the intake.

If the oil pressure light is on at anytime past 3 seconds after startup, you've got an oil pressure problem. Could be a bad pump gear/housing, could be worn bearings, could be a walking cam bearing.

If you've got coolant leaks, weeping or otherwise, you're on the path to headgaskets. I had a P38 start leaking from the HG at 80K miles.

Edit to add: in my experience these trucks HATE sitting for a long time. I've seen all kinds of gremlins arise like magic just from sitting.
 

mydamnwell

Member
Jan 30, 2025
7
2
NJ
I have some parts on the way to verify oil pressure. I had a random misfire on cyl 1 when running it yesterday but reseating the spark plug boot seemed to fix it. The oil lamp is right on the edge, just laying my foot on the throttle is enough for it to go away, not even 100rpms above warm idle. With the heater running it will not illuminate. Ticking gets pretty loud though. It's holding temp fine at 188F. Not gonna run it any more until I can test that oil pressure.

Selling it on for a small profit seems like a safe move, even with the 'blown motor' I have people lining up to take it. But I don't want to see this think parted out or Frankenstein'd with some LS motor swap. Not yet at least.
 
  • Like
Reactions: p m

kris812

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2014
439
162
Tucson AZ
1000$ would go a long ways on this..

I put a leak down compression tester on mine. Quickly found my issues when air was leaking out the head gasket.. To note, you can listen inside oil fill tube for ring leaks and the intake and exhaust ports for large valve leaks..

But a new oil ring gear (if bad), and head gaskets would go a LONG ways.. while inside the intake could find and replace the bad lifter to get some more out of it.. Or seafoam/marvel mystery oil to try to help clear up the noisy lifter.

It ain't worth selling until you at least tried to fix it first. And do these and might run for another 100k miles without issues..

And as someone who has a rover as a backup/off-road toy, and as others have said these things grow issues sitting. When I daily drove it, I NEVER had issues..
 
  • Like
Reactions: StangGT5

mydamnwell

Member
Jan 30, 2025
7
2
NJ
Hmm, well said. I don't have a leakdown valve setup but I can use my air compressor to get a rough idea of things. I am indeed mechanically inclined but the last car engine I fully rebuilt was a buick v6 in high school shop class, almost 20 years ago now. My black disco came with a Rover service manual but it is a royal pain skipping around half a dozen chapters and subsections just to see how the intake comes off. If the oil pressure checks out and is only marginal at idle I'll run the thing for a few hours and see what leaks and noises persist. Parts prices are pretty reasonable though. As you mentioned I can get a water pump, all coolant hoses, oil pump and timing cover, head gaskets and various other consumables for well under $1000, going off rockauto it's no more than $600ish. I'm watching the snow fall outside but I suppose spring is just around the corner. This work would have to be done in my carport or driveway and I'm not eager enough to tackle all that in freezing weather. 🥶
 

mydamnwell

Member
Jan 30, 2025
7
2
NJ
Well my adapter fitting finally came in but I realize now the M12 test port is damn near impossible to get to, I can't even put eyes on it. I guess it's behind the alternator bracket? What a pain. I'm staring at a blank cap which is the M20 oil cooler port, I should have ordered that size adapter from the get-go. It's snowing again and freezing cold so I'll order another fitting and give 'er a go next week. I also have some plugs and wires to slap in, getting an intermittent cyl 1 misfire on cold starts.
 

joeblack5

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2023
102
47
State college usa
Not sure how much the d2 motor is different from the d1 .
But on my d1 with low oil pressure it helped to adjust the oil pressure relief valve, add a larger oil filter to reduce pressure loss and search for a filter with low internal bypass valve pressure.. you can find details and pics in members trucks d1 manual thread. The oil adapter is absolutely a pia to get to, especially if a pressure switch with a rounded hex head was installed..
Pressure reading improvements are documented in my thread .

Good luck.
 

11b4v

Well-known member
May 5, 2009
261
19
N. Alabama
I’m a “peace of mind” type and Head gaskets and oil pump/water pump, lifters, would be easy an easy job for even the moderately mechanical inclined person here; lots of how to/step by step for these motors. Pulling the cam (pulling the radiator would be the biggest PITA if you pull a cam).
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: StangGT5

mastercamper

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2006
1,002
24
Erwin TN
My 03 has a random knock. Replaced oil pump, timing chain, water pump last year. Heads done 3 years ago.
The knock was there before the pump replacement. I put 50 weight oil in it after reading another post. Still random.
Motor runs great doesn't burn oil etc, with over 208k on it.
I do think mine is oil pressure related only happens at idle and will go a way with a little on the throttle.
I can let it run for an hour and nothing. Drive it 5 min down the road and it'll do it.
I'll drive it till it dies and pull it and drop another motor in it.
 

mydamnwell

Member
Jan 30, 2025
7
2
NJ
Finally received the correct fittings. Went straight from the mailbox to the disco and fired it up. Motor sounds great when cold and oil pressure was about 53psi. It quickly dropped though. After 30 seconds the cold engine @2000rpm read 38psi (pic 1). Within 90 seconds the idle reading was in the single digits (pic 2). This is when the ticking began. Mustered up the courage to run @ 2000rpm 'warm' and got a whopping 27psi (pic 3) after about 2 mins of run time. As soon as it was back to idle the gauge went to zero and the oil light illuminated on the dash. Shut her down after that and said a few prayers to the bearing Gods.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20250224_210930039.jpg
    PXL_20250224_210930039.jpg
    179.8 KB · Views: 3
  • PXL_20250224_211114424.jpg
    PXL_20250224_211114424.jpg
    223.1 KB · Views: 3
  • PXL_20250224_210847618.jpg
    PXL_20250224_210847618.jpg
    157.9 KB · Views: 3

chris1d2se7

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2009
56
1
mi
Welcome-
There are a lot of step by step videos on how to disassemble the 4.6 v8.
To check the oil pump for damage (in pieces or deep grooves) the front cover has to come off. This means dropping the oil pan (under truck) removing the fan (special tool), main crank bolt (good impact wrench or starter bump method done b4 almost everything else), alt, a/c compressor, brackets, and pulleys etc.
Or use thicker oil and hope it doesn't wear out too soon..
A collapsed lifter is not likely to directly cause low oil pressure. Low oil pressure is more likely due to issues like a failing oil pump, clogged oil filter, worn main bearings.
I would try to fix it, but then you may find it is main bearings and all that work for nothing other than to know it needs rebuilt...
 

kris812

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2014
439
162
Tucson AZ
I think you should compression test the cylinders..

Then you'll know if block needs to come out, or just the front cover..

If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,215
85
Raleigh, NC
My 03 has a random knock. Replaced oil pump, timing chain, water pump last year. Heads done 3 years ago.
The knock was there before the pump replacement. I put 50 weight oil in it after reading another post. Still random.
Motor runs great doesn't burn oil etc, with over 208k on it.
I do think mine is oil pressure related only happens at idle and will go a way with a little on the throttle.
I can let it run for an hour and nothing. Drive it 5 min down the road and it'll do it.
I'll drive it till it dies and pull it and drop another motor in it.
That's what mine did. When i had a lifter collapsed (unrelated), I decided to do a full rebuild and finally figure out what that knocking was.. Well the only thing i found was the machine shop telling me cylinder 7 was out of round. So I had to source another block.
 

mastercamper

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2006
1,002
24
Erwin TN
That's what mine did. When i had a lifter collapsed (unrelated), I decided to do a full rebuild and finally figure out what that knocking was.. Well the only thing i found was the machine shop telling me cylinder 7 was out of round. So I had to source another block.
I've got a donor truck that I'm going to pull the motor out of and rebuild it and go that route.