Key turning problem

[amg61]

In my 1996 Disco 1, 4.0L I am having problems literally turning the ignition key on. This doesn't happen every time i go to start the car. The key goes in fine, but about 20-30% of the time, I cannot literally turn it. Sometimes, I just take the key out, flip it around 180 degrees, put it back in and it works. Other times, I try and push it into the cylinder/steering column and then turn it and it works. Obviously, I'm worried that sooner or later, I'm just not going to be able to turn the key at all. BTW, it doesn't matter what position the front wheels are in. If i'm correct, i think you're supposed to push the key into the steering column/cylinder somewhat before you turn it, and maybe that's where i'm having the problem as there may be some more resistance tha usual, but i'm really not sure.

Thanks.

 

[vabiro]

Hi,

My '98 DI is has been having the same problem since I got it more than 3 years ago. Some had suggested that it was related to being on uneven surfaces, and initially I thought it was related to this. As time has gone by this seems less and less likely. The biggest problem is troubleshooting an extremely intermittent problem.

The only saving grace is that it happens only a couple of times a month, and has never left me stranded. If it is happening 20-30% of the time for you I would replace the cylinder ASAP. I don't think it is a very expensive item, or hard to do. You might even be able to get a locksmith to re-key it.

Cheers
Victor

 

[RoverDisco98]

I have the same problem on my 98 Disco, Haven't been able to discover what is causing it. However, I have found a doable fix for when it happens. If nothing else works a light tap with a hammer directly on the lock in the direction the key goes in has always got me going again. Sounds stupid but it works for me.

 

[nosivad_bor]

try some 3-in-one oil or graphite lock lube. it really will help.

rd

 

[warner0188]

I agree with Nosivad. I have the same problem with mine and after spraying liberal amounts of WD40 in there its back to about 90%. Works fine for me. Not quite like new; but I'm no longer worried about not being able to get the truck started.

 

[jimjet]

its a wonderfull inherent challenge built in by landrover.
YOU WILL GET STRANDED EVENTUALY.
ive been through three lock assy and three tows.
two were under warranty.
one not.
i think there is a trick to bypassing the internal lock

i hope some one here chimes in as its been a while since my last lock failure.
for a while it was so bad lock assy were unavailable do to somany failures

jim

 

[Michelucci]

I too sprayed copius amounts of WD/40 right into the mechanism (as I also normally do with all of my locks), works like a charm! For now anyway.

 

[amg61]

Thanks for your replies. I will try some WD-40 or graphite or teflon spray for the short-term. Any preferences as to which sprays are best??

Also, if taking the cylinder out and having a locksmith fix it is not too big a deal, I would be happy to do that, because i have almost been stuck a couple of times and i think i'm running out of luck. How hard is it to take out the cylinder, and how would i do it?

I happened to see this thread on the forum http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13749&highlight=key
and it appears pulling the cylinder and having a locksmith fix it might be the best DIY permanent fix. Wondering if any locksmith can repair this and what they would do??? Assuming i can't get the cylinder out, then what would the stealership or a good mechanic do to definitively fix this problem and what might it cost?

Thanks.

 

[RichardS]

Here are a couple of relative threads. One describes how to remove the switch - use a chisel to spin the security screws.

First make sure your problem is not just because the steering wheel was locked with some force on it.

After that I'd say take it to a locksmith and tell them you want the transmission interlock and steering column lock totally removed. Or do it youself if you are handy with lock mechanisms or willing to learn.

If you do not want to loose those two functions then you are best of with a new lock.

http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17196&highlight=lock
http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13117&highlight=lock

 

[amg61]

Richard,

I have read some of your other posts on this issue. I guess one relatively easy option is to try and disable the steering lock mechanism. Maybe my key won't turn b/c the steering lock mechanism is overly sensitive. If that is disabled and i still have problems then I know it's most likely the cylinder. I DO NOT have a problem getting the key out (transmission lock), so disabling the steering lock may be worth the effort. So, how exactly would i disable the steering lock mechanism, while leaving everything else in working order???

 

[amg61]

Quick question. To get that black piece of plastic surrounding the steering column off, do i have to remove the steering wheel?? I took out the 2 scews from underneath, that held the black plastic piece to the column, but i have a funny feeling that to get it off the column i have to take off the steering wheel. If so, what kind of screws are holding the wheel in place and how do i get them out and the wheel off??? (They're on the back part of the wheel).

 

[Orville]

To pull the shroud from around the lock mechanism, there are three screws underneath, and the top piece clips to the bottom piece. You'll have to then remove the security screws with a cold chisel and then some electrical connections. Once the assembly is free from the steering column, unscrew the tiny screws at the end of the assembly to remove just the ignition switch. With a flat screwdriver you can now start the truck with the electrical switch. Moving requires jumping the interlocks.

 

[RichardS]

No need to remove the steering wheel, just play with the tilt mechanism until you get enough room to pull the cover off.

Pull the lock assembly then watch what happens when you turn the key. The steering lock mechanism should be obvious. To take it apart you will have to bend/grind the bits of metal that were peened over to keep the assembly together. When you put it back use a a chisel or something similar to peen some metal to hold it together.

Also, before you pull the tumbler out of the lock assembly put the key in and leave it there. If you remove the key with the tumbler removed some of the pins and springs may fall out and they can be a pain to get back in place. And look at the tumbler carefully once you have it out, with the key in all of the pins should be flush with the surface of the tumbler. If not then the key is worn or not cut corectly and this could be your problem.

 

[amg61]

Thanks.

Let's say i'm able to get my hands on a replacement lock assembly with new keys. How hard is it and what is entailed in swapping out the bad one and putting in the new one?

 

[nosivad_bor]

not too hard but then the key in the ignition is differnt from the door. very annoying to me

hmm i guess if you use the remote it wouldnt be bad though.

i need to get my remote reprogramed

 

[amg61]

not too hard but then the key in the ignition is differnt from the door. very annoying to me

hmm i guess if you use the remote it wouldnt be bad though.

i need to get my remote reprogramed

so, when you say not too hard, does that mean that once you expose the cylinder, smash those safety bolts out and pull the cylinder out, you just have to unplug the harness connections, remove the assembly, plug the harness connections for the new assembly, re-bolt the cylinder with new safety bolts or new hex nuts (size??) and you're good to go, or is it something more sinister?

 

[RichardS]

I think that's pretty much it.

Unless you want the ignition, door, and fuel filler locks to match. Then theres more work.

 

[amg61]

i got a replacement lock mechanism. essentially it's the cylinder attached to a long black cable. the cable had two connectors sticking out of it.

so, i undo the cylinder in my LR and there are a bunch of other connectors i have to disconnect that are also attached to some black cable to the right of the column. i detach them, but i cannot pull the old cylinder out b/c the original long black cable is wedged way back behind the column, into the truck, on the left. so, i unscrew each cylinder from it's own black cable, and i connect the new cylinder to the OLD black cable that is STILL in the LR. i reconnect all the connectors i took off in the first place, but now the key won't turn or come out. there's gotta be an easier way!!!!!

 

[disco1776]

I assuming you have already tried this but, have you tried turning the wheel slightly before you turn the key. If the wheels are cocked too far to one side it seems like the steering wheel locks and you have to pull it to the center to get the key to turn. I also have a 1996 4.0L and mine did the same thing until I found out that trick.

 

[amg61]

that's definitely not the problem. the wheels are straight.

this has to do with swapping out an old cylinder for a new cylinder as i stated above. not sure if i mis-connected a switch. there was one 2-pin connector, connected to the bottom of the cylinder that i could NOT remove from the old one, and mashed the plastic a little. instead, i just unscrewed the metal piece it was connected to from the old cylinder and replaced that part on the new cylinder, so i wouldn't have to rip out and further damage that 2-pin connector. what is that 2-pin connector for?

anyway, i still can't turn the key or get it out.