loud loud lifters

[dhuddleson]

Dirtyrover,

Most LR parts places do not have a "kit" of what you want. You will mostly need individual parts, and gasket "sets" to finish. As for fuel octane, higher (91-92) is recommended, however the engine should adapt as best it can for regular octane. As some people may have figured out, Labrador in Canada is a rather FAR NORTH place, and I am not surprised there is no High Octane trucked up there... However for those who have it, saving 20 cent a US gallon for 87 octane over Premium/Super is false economy.

As for suppliers for the engine parts, there are many that these forum participants buy from. I actually found that my local LR dealer had the lowest price for brand-new rocker shafts, less than $US 60 each. Personally, I have had excellent parts and service from Discount Rovers, British Pacific, Atlantic British and Rovers North just this year. And there are many other good places. And for us Canadians, the US exchange rate is as favourable as it has been for more than a decade!

Open up that engine and let us know what you discover. Hopefully the worn/broken parts will be the cheaper ($$) ones, and not major surgury!

 

[cbass]

Peter,
How do you suggest cleaning inside the valve covers manually? Could you give me specifics on a procedure to clean it out? Mine is pretty sludged up, and I'd like to get it in better shape.

 

[Kyle]

More often then not its a manifold leak and not a lifter "Tick" has someone told you for certain that is what it is ? Does the oil light flicker ?


Kyle

 

[DeanBrown3D]

Reading this makes me want to rig in or tap some kind of additional oil supply, that just poors oil all over the rockers instead of just feebly splashing around.

 

[p m]

How do you suggest cleaning inside the valve covers manually?

Well, there isn't a whole lot of rocket science - personally, I like brake cleaner (acetone-based) to dissolve all the crud, but avoid spraying it onto the gaskets. Then, all the procedure is - douse it with solvent, use a stiff brush to clean whatever comes off, repeat.
The heads may have quite a bit of crud, too - just as bad as that inside the covers. I'd make me a wood pick to remove the gunk from the hard-to-reach corners - and again, keep it from falling down into the oil galleys.

 

[Kyle]

The rockers are fed just fine as long as the engine isnt sludged up or been abused by not changing the oil. In the bottom of the lifter is a small orofice that the oil is pumped through , when the engine is abused and the lifter wears inside that orofice becomes smaller because of its nature. The smaller it gets the more oil flow is cut off to the top end. You have to pull the lifter apart to observe this....

Kyle

 

[p m]

Reading this makes me want to rig in or tap some kind of additional oil supply, that just poors oil all over the rockers instead of just feebly splashing around.

Dean,
I may be wrong here - but AFAIK the oil is supplied to the rockers via the rocker shaft, so the most-wear surfaces are pressure-lubricated. The contact points - rockers to pushrods and rockers to valves - are splash-lubricated, which is about what every other engine with solid pushrods does. Can't remember, though, whether the pushrods are drilled through or solid - Buick used solid pushrods until ~71, then changed to drilled.

 

[Kyle]

Yeah Peter , if the engine is taken care of there is oil galore up there. Infact , I have to restrict an FE motor with the same setup for race use and cut some of that shit off...


Kyle

 

[DeanBrown3D]

Yeah you're right I forgot that part. But the blown engine I am replacing, which looked like it never saw an oil change in its life, was so gunged up it looked like some of the treacle could be hindering oil flow just about everywhere around there.

 

[cbass]

Peter (and anyone else who wants to chime in),

What about around the rockers? When I said valve cover, I really meant what is housed inside the valve covers, not the valve covers themselves; sorry for the miscomm. Anyway, Are you meaning to use a brake cleaner for the rockers too? What would you do to keep crud from falling down the galleys, just be really careful? or cover them up with something?

Then, after I get done cleaning, and after I change the oil/filter, should I change the oil again shortly thereafter, to make sure any residual brake cleaner gets out of the system?

I am also planning on running some Marvel Mystery Oil through with Mobil 1 Synthetic this oil change to see if that will clear some of the gunk out of places I can't physically reach. Is an ATF flush more "potent," and should I maybe do that first or after the MMO?

Thanks in advance for all the help!!

 

[bazzle]

1. Ensure exh manifold not leaking, same loud noise
2. Ensure engine oil is normal not low viscosity or synthetic (wont allow Disco lifters to build up proper pressure on some)
3. Regular is OK esp on low comp engines fitted for some markets. It wont do any harm as long as timing is adj to reduce pinging IF it pings.

Bazzle

 

[beemer]

lifter noise and rebuild kits

Dirtyrover, go to www.Auto-Rx.com they have engine cleaning (flush) additives made for what you want instead of ATF and other "home brews". As for rebuild parts go to http://rpi8.com ( that's Chris Crane) or www.rimmerbros.co.uk. Hope this helps, because i'm an "idiot" as was stated by another person on this forum. Carl...........o&o>............

 

[cbass]

Beemer,
That link to rpi8 does not work. Can you double check it?

Thanks!

 

[RangeRoverHP]

Should be: www.rpiv8.com

Chris is a good guy.

 

[Steve83]

Reading this makes me want to rig in or tap some kind of additional oil supply, that just poors oil all over the rockers instead of just feebly splashing around.

Chevy upgraded their oil pumps in the late 80s-early 90s to a high-volume pump. It pushed so much oil that the passages from the valve covers down to the block weren't big enough, and the oil pooled up there. The result was that the valve guides BAKED and started leaking. That's why so many of those trucks blow a puff of blue smoke each time they start: the oil sitting up there when the engine is shut off runs down the valve stems & collects on top of the valves. When it's started, it runs into the combustion chamber.

Modifying the oil system has a LOT of other effects, so think it through carefully before doing anything. It's a lot easier to just keep the engine clean by changing the oil regularly.