LR3 and Snow Chains...and spacers?

[daven5735]

Well, I got my Grip 4x4 chains (#0141) ordered through Bill Burke. I had asked the question before placing the order about clearance issues and he responded back with "no one has given him feedback that the chains didn't fit stock tires for the LR3 or any other Land Rover."

With the stock 18" wheels and tires there is only a finger's thickness of space between the tire and the upper arm on the front. That is not enough for almost any chain or cable without closing the gap to the extent that it could be a problem. There are no issues on the rear. Yes, I know that the LR3 owners manual says to only put them on the front but if you ever get to the point where you really need them, you better have them on all four.

Question is this, has anyone installed wheel spacers and if so, where did you get them? Thanks.

 

[nwoods]

Rover Accessories offered to make me a set of LR3 wheel spacers for about $400. I declined.

 

[PacificGroveRover]

I bought the same chains from Bill Burke. I used them in Yosemite twice last year when they go to R3 road conditions. I did not experience any rubbing. I have the 19 inch tires. I have not put my second set on the rear tires yet. I got into the rear tire discussion on the landroverworld.org and we came to the conclusion that it might have to do with the rear locker for the LR3's that have that option (I do). If I really wanted the answer I would call the Land Rover School in Quebec because they deal in deep snow conditions probably. I asked the lead instructor at the Quail Lodge Land Rover school and he called Quebec on his cell phone and they said OK to chains on the rear tires, but I forgot to mention that I have the rear locker. The picture was from the last weekend on hwy 108 near pinecrest, ca.

 

[daven5735]

On your locker point, I would think that if you were in a situation where you needed it, the chains would only enhance it. How often though, do you want to use a locker in snow and ice conditions? I had a PowerTrax auto locker on a Suburban and was miserable the entire time during a ski trip one year....scary as hell. That taught me to only have a locker I can engage when I want to. On the chain clearance issue, it's possible that (the slight bulge of) the sidewall of my 18" tire is going to be closer to the upper arm than with the 19" tire. The decision I think I have to make is that if I am serious about using the chains (and it's hell when you need them and don't have them), then a one inch spacer is in order and wouldn't likely create other problems.

 

[jwest]

Well, I got my Grip 4x4 chains (#0141) ordered through Bill Burke. I had asked the question before placing the order about clearance issues and he responded back with "no one has given him feedback that the chains didn't fit stock tires for the LR3 or any other Land Rover."

With the stock 18" wheels and tires there is only a finger's thickness of space between the tire and the upper arm on the front. That is not enough for almost any chain or cable without closing the gap to the extent that it could be a problem. There are no issues on the rear. Yes, I know that the LR3 owners manual says to only put them on the front but if you ever get to the point where you really need them, you better have them on all four.

Question is this, has anyone installed wheel spacers and if so, where did you get them? Thanks.

Take careful note of the clearance at your front tire when in near full turn. Looking at the driver front wheel, at around 3/4 o'clock, there is a steel plate that is "part" of the frame (welded to it but not sure what it really does other than limit clearance for large tires). This will get tighter if you use spacers because the radius of the tire swing is increased. You could asjust the steering stops like on an old D1 I suppose.

Also, if you don't aleady know, the lr3 is "hub centric" and requires the small flange on the hub to properly seat the rim exactly. Basic spacers without a protruding flange will not work. Matzker in Germany makes a proper spacer recreating the flange for the rim to center onto.

Just be sure this is part of any spacer considered.
Any wheel expert - please let me know if I am not understanding this correctly.

 

[daven5735]

Do you mean the steel plate like in these pics? If it is, ask me how I solved that problem. Thanks for the info on the hubs. I will check into Matzker.

 

[jwest]

There are no other strange steel plates behind the wheel. Just show what you did in a photo if you have one.

 

[daven5735]

OK, I just ran out and took these with my "fix." All I did was remove the tire and beat the wing (piece) back with a small sledge hammer until it was flush with the inner wheel well. Since it was the same on both sides I wanted to know WTF. My best guess is that it's a factory defect whereby they incorrectly bent the plate that bolts to the chassis long sill, leaving it flared toward the tire. It only took a few whacks. If you're concerned about collateral damage from this method, simply remove the three bolts from one side and take a look.

 

[jwest]

I didn't whack mine but it seemed a little too substantially built to go that easy.

how much do you think you gained in actual clearance?

 

[daven5735]

Probably a good (and needed) 2 inches.

 

[jwest]

Really?! I am surprised. What year is yours? I ask because mine looks a little different than your stock photos. My shop thinks it looks less than totally necessary as far as the frame structure goes and thought it might have something to do with vibration or some other odd thing - my thought was that it's right where an offset frontal impact would push the wheel. It could be a layer to absorb energy keeping the wheel from crushing your foot as soon... if it were purely an active structure, you wouldn't have been able to crush it so easily I'd guess.

 

[daven5735]

I actually removed the left side and looked closely at what it was suppose to be there for. You might be right about some sort of frontal impact protection under your feet. There are some lines and electrical stuff behind it so I think it might be there as a barrier to protect against what the wheels can throw back. It definitely is not structural.

 

[GregH]

I have 2 pairs of Pewag Brenta C 4x4 chains for my '89 RRC (second pic down):

http://www.pewagchain.com/tractionttt/pewag_catalog_2005/pewag_catalog_20050019.htm

For an LR3 for mainly onroad use I like these:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfA0xUfH9uw