Thanks for all the info. All went smooth, changed rotors too. BUT now steering shakes when braking only a week after full replacement. Did I get bad rotors from British Atlantic? Could it be the lines need bled? Is it possible to manually blows the lines like I dinon my disco 1? Thanks for any input.
LR3 Brake PAD Replacement
- Thread starter Robert Page
- Start date
Just did this yesterday, instructions were great and helped out, thank you... instead of a thin cresent, I just used a pair of thin lock pliers. I need to go back and replace the front wear sensor, it got dark by the time I got to that wheel yesterday, and I didn't feel like fumbling around with the inner fender.. I just shorted the wires for the time being and the beeping stopped. Btw I used PEX wire sensors (~18/ea) instead of genuine.
Just a heads up, Wagner has a deal right now, $15 rebate on each set ($30 total) for their pads until the end of the month: http://www.tqfallblitzrebate.com/ .... You should be able to get all of the pads for under $50 then.
Just a heads up, Wagner has a deal right now, $15 rebate on each set ($30 total) for their pads until the end of the month: http://www.tqfallblitzrebate.com/ .... You should be able to get all of the pads for under $50 then.
Just finished the rear brakes on my '06 LR3. Had the laptop on the tailgate for reference the entire time. Great help and saved myself some $. Thank you.
Should I expect to come across any thing different on a 2009 LR3. The 2 dealerships in my area, one wants almost 1400.00 and the other wants a little over a 1000 for brakes rotor and sensor all the way around.
Robert, Changed the fronts on my 2007 LR3 yesterday using your instructions, one hour total including running back to my office to check your photos, awesome job!
I used the Akebono Ultra-Premium Ceramics from Amazon.com, $68, great pedal feel.
I noticed what appeared to be loctite "blue" on the caliper bolt, anyone else?
It's so easy to replace, I might go get some and apply it.
oh yeah, good luck finding a thin enough 17mm... If you have bike tools, a 17mm cone wrench works great.
I used the Akebono Ultra-Premium Ceramics from Amazon.com, $68, great pedal feel.
I noticed what appeared to be loctite "blue" on the caliper bolt, anyone else?
It's so easy to replace, I might go get some and apply it.
oh yeah, good luck finding a thin enough 17mm... If you have bike tools, a 17mm cone wrench works great.
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wpsimmons said:
That's a little excessive. We charge about $850 for the rear job on a LR3 and Sport. That includes 2.5h for pad/rotor/sensor replacement and 1h for park brake recalibration with SDD. Obviously we are also using OEM parts.
I did a video on the brake repalcement job a few weeks ago. Sorry for the late notice.
http://youtu.be/IxvD7XsX07Y
Hope it is helpful.
http://youtu.be/IxvD7XsX07Y
Hope it is helpful.
Thanks for this post, it made the job easy and straight forward. I replaced the rotors due to excessive run out. The rotors only lasted around 8k miles, which was done last year by the dealer.
I dismantled the calipers and removed the rotors. Cleaned the hubs and applied anti-seize around the center bore, installed the new rotors clocked the "right" direction. I then took apart the caliper from the mounting bracket. When I removed the passenger sliding bolt to replace the rubber gromet, the passenger side had issues. The bolts had some build up due to insufficient lubrication. I cleaned them, then installed them with adequate lube. I believe that what caused the right front to warp, sticky caliper and excessive heat build up. Bolted everything back to torque spec and inspected the work....done.
This time around I installed slotted zinc coated rotors and ceramic pads. After a mild break in drive, they seem to work nicely. Still need them to break in more, but it is getting better evertime.
I dismantled the calipers and removed the rotors. Cleaned the hubs and applied anti-seize around the center bore, installed the new rotors clocked the "right" direction. I then took apart the caliper from the mounting bracket. When I removed the passenger sliding bolt to replace the rubber gromet, the passenger side had issues. The bolts had some build up due to insufficient lubrication. I cleaned them, then installed them with adequate lube. I believe that what caused the right front to warp, sticky caliper and excessive heat build up. Bolted everything back to torque spec and inspected the work....done.
This time around I installed slotted zinc coated rotors and ceramic pads. After a mild break in drive, they seem to work nicely. Still need them to break in more, but it is getting better evertime.
Quick question - when replacing the rotors and pads, and jacking the car, does leaving the rear gate open turn off the suspension?
Another quick question , i have a 05 LR3, 88k, my sensor light came on and I am going to replace all 4 pads. There is no pulse in the pedal will I need to replace rotors also ?
A few people have used different pads, is there a consensus on which brand is the best to go with ...thanks Tom
A few people have used different pads, is there a consensus on which brand is the best to go with ...thanks Tom
I like the factory ones the best. Some of the aftermarket pads I've put on don''t fit the sensor very well. I'd replace the rotors if it were my truck, but you'll probably be fine just replacing the pads. You'll notice some decreased braking performance until the new pads bed in to the used rotors.
i replaced nearly new pads and rotors of many different makes because they sucked... noisy and everything. I personally tried EBC, Akebono and Raybestos. and the raybestos were the least crap of them.
oem pads and Brembo or OEM rotors seem to be the most comfortable. and this comes from me who ran r compounds on a daily driven miata. NO braking cold. LOUD and makes sparks at night....
also, pads and rotors are designed to wear together. so you should* replace them together unless you are not wearing the pads down all the way.
oem pads and Brembo or OEM rotors seem to be the most comfortable. and this comes from me who ran r compounds on a daily driven miata. NO braking cold. LOUD and makes sparks at night....
also, pads and rotors are designed to wear together. so you should* replace them together unless you are not wearing the pads down all the way.
pulse = wrapping/uneven wear on the rotors. Not having any pulsing does not mean that the disks are thick enough. I do not have the manufacturer specs, check the minimum thickness.
When I did my brakes (a while ago), I did not replace the rotors since they looked great. I will probably have to do them at the next pad exchange.
Any resolution to this? I just replaced my front rotors and pads (akebono) and I still have a bit of a shake in the steering upon braking. I ordered up rear rotors and pads and will be changing them as soon I receive them.
Tires have 8k miles on them, I just had the dealer install new tie rod ends and do a 4 wheel alignment but I still have shaking with braking. Control arms replaced 40k miles ago and dealer said the bushings look good.
(I have had my p38 for 4 years and it has never been to in the shop as I do all my own work. But there are certain things on this LR3 that seem to require their input. sucks...)