LR3 Driver Side Hot Brakes

eXtraDutyDisco

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
174
0
Oregon
Had our 2006 LR3 for about 2 month, and I have a re-occuring issue with the driver's side rear getting hot. I can smell it when I park in our garage, and the disc is very hot to the touch, like burn your finger instantly (don't ask me how I know). The issue first happened about a month ago, so I took it to a local shop to fix that and the parking brake banshee scream. The issue went away, but now is back. Any troubleshooting tips? Things I can look for?
 

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
Dec 15, 2004
5,333
1
Atlanta, GA
The e-brake needs adjustment. And the rotor is probably frigged. The shop didn't adjust it correctly, I'd reckon.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Dec 5, 2004
5,387
20
30
Los Angeles, Ca
What did they do to fix the screech? Normally that happens when the shoes are not adjusted properly, or the friction material has come off the shoes. The quickest fix will be to pop the wheel off and back the parking brake adjuster off a couple of clicks.
 

eXtraDutyDisco

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
174
0
Oregon
Thanks guys, I'm betting it's the adjustment issue.

Here is the write up from the shop, dated 12/1:

Parking brake screeching and getting hot, may be stuck on diag/advise.
removed rear wheels, brake calipers and rotors to inpect park brake assembly.
left park brake shoes and assembly missing completely. right side appears
ok. nec replace left pbrake assy and test for proper function.
inspection caps missing from both rotors.
left caliper appears to be dragging. rec disassemble for inspection, cleaning and
lubrication.
Remove & Replace Parking Brake Shoe & Lining


I'll be calling them on Tuesday. In the meantime, it looks like my Saturday afternoon might be spent learning how to adjust the parking brakes...
 

lordhelemt

Active member
Dec 18, 2010
34
0
If they replaced the rear rotors the parking shoe needs to be adjusted correctly then they need to do the ?bed in? procedure. If it wasn?t done correctly you?re flirting with disaster. It?s a simple procedure but you can?t take short cuts
 

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
0
Charlevoix, Michigan
Oregon? Road salt and snow maybe? I'm in Northern Michigan. One thing we never ever ever do at this latitude is use the parking brake. If truck is new-ish then fine, but if it's several years old just don't do it. The cables seize and brake doesn't release. Most of the time if it's an older vehicle we just remove the parking brake hardware completely. I wouldn't do this on a professional level, but on personal vehicles it's not worth the hassle. Granted, most of the time we are parked on relatively flat grades. If problem persist you might consider replacing cable.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,522
11
Northern Illinois
I adjust the park brakes by turning the star wheel until I can't turn it anymore. Then I back it off 11 clicks. The click is more like a thud cause it's just the star wheel hitting the spring. People always leave them too tight and I'm sure that's what caused the park brake shoes to come apart originally.

The cables pull really far and leaving those shoes dragging on the drum causes them to overheat. But also check the caliper brackets and calipers.make sure they move freely.just use a big screwdriver to pry the pads away from the rotor (push piston back in) then make sure the caliper freely slides in the bracket.

After you do that make sure your brake pedal is firm before starting to drive. It's going to go to the floor till you get the pads against the rotor again.
 

jwest

Well-known member
May 28, 2006
886
4
WA & NC
I adjust the park brakes by turning the star wheel until I can't turn it anymore. Then I back it off 11 clicks. The click is more like a thud cause it's just the star wheel hitting the spring. People always leave them too tight and I'm sure that's what caused the park brake shoes to come apart originally.
.
hey is 11 clicks your learned from experience number or is it in a manual? I learned by watching an AB video but don?t recal the number of clicks. Then I did the test, etc.

On a rainy day I had some hot burning smell but it was also when the fender liner wasn?t replaced yet as I was waiting to something else in there first. I think that?s the only time I had any smell and actually only noticed it as steam at first. Brakes do have their own special smell and I don?t think it was present that day.

Anyway, do you know of a way to use fewer clicks out to a point that when tested you?d feel the brakes not drag it to a stop and then you could go ad just one or two clicks back in? I only suggest this in case the combination of new rotors, old pads, etc makes 11 not always the ideal or thatvtye last tightening click pressed hard or not clicked, would result in a one click difference when backing it off again.... maybe overthinking.

I liked how the disco 1 & 2 engaged the drivel in instead. The hill holding was way better. I tested the lr3 once and it of course could hold a steeper grade when pointing uphill due to more weight on the braking tires. Seems like a flaw to give up the 4 tire holding ability the older Rovers had.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,522
11
Northern Illinois
I totally agree that the park brake drum holing the whole drivetrain was way better.

I learned the 11 clicks thing from another guy who learned it from someone else probably. The actual adjustment procedure outlined in the service info is a nightmare. It involves turning the axle with a tourque wrench and then turning the star wheel till a tourque is reached and then I think backing it off from there.

The shoes travel so far that they will be fully engaged when the actuato is done moving them. I see no need to have them closer to the drum when released. I've been doing it like this since they came out with this system.
 

jwest

Well-known member
May 28, 2006
886
4
WA & NC
Thx guys! That’s great info for people on one of the easiest jobs at face value but then this goofy misterious drum shoes adjuster . The Atlantic British YouTube was very demistifying too.
 

eXtraDutyDisco

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
174
0
Oregon
I found the caliper piston was stuck. I was able to free it, but I'm sure it's going to happen again. I'm not sure if this means that there are issues with the caliper, or the brake fluid isn't doing its job.
 

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
0
Charlevoix, Michigan
In most cases you'll want to replace calipers in pairs. That's just sound practice and standard procedure at virtually any repair shop especially on an older vehicle. The only exception would be if you had a failure on a relatively new component. Any shop that's only replacing one side is a shop I would avoid. If the disc has been overheated it is or likely will warp and you'll get a pulse in the brake pedal. Turning them down on a lathe at that point isn't advisable because the metal is fatigued and will just warp again. You could check disc run out with a dial indicator. I think the tolerance is like 0.003" max run out, the point which you can feel feedback in the pedal. Being in the rear a little run out may not be too noticeable unless hard braking.
 

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
0
Charlevoix, Michigan
Jinxed. Must be going around. Daughter just pulled up in the disco and I could smell hot brakes. Drivers side rear. Grrr,...

Just replaced abs module two weeks ago. Had it all apart, on jack stands, inside heated shop, flushed out all the old fluid, bled the brakes,... I guess it was a good practice run.

Just ordered pads, rotors, calipers, hardware kit.

ea$y come, ea$y go
 
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