LR3 or LR4

[scottagnew101]

I've had a DI and a DII, so I'm knowledgeable on Land Rovers. I'm looking to get a LR3 or a LR4. what is the difference? how does the LR3 ride versus the LR4. Etc.

Just spit out some facts for me on the two.

It appears that the LR4 comes with more standard options then the LR3.

 

[discostew]

The LR4 drives a little better in my opinion. When they first came out I kind of noticed just a better feel to the steering geometry. The LR4 has more power and the dash has a nicer look to it. The LR3 runs the old 4.4 liter jag engine that has proven to be the most reliable engine Land Rover has run to date. The 5.0 engine makes a ton more power but has had its issues along the way, water pumps mostly,timing chains noisy with a couple updates for tensioners and blades that seem to quiet them down. I've seen a couple get lifter bores fagged out witch was blamed on materials,only a couple so not much of an issue.The 5.0 does not like to be overheated at all,and with questionable water pumps that's something your gonna want to keep your eye on.
The LR3 was much improved by the 08 model year with a lot of improvements in the wire harness splices and communication networks between modules.

 

[scottagnew101]

thanks discostew, just what I wanted.

 

[discostew]

No problem. Drive them both. You will be able to make up your own mind. The 08 lr3 could still need the air suspension compressor. Corner valves in the suspension could cause it to sink down overnight. Still not real common but common enough to mention. If you decide on a LR3 replace the plastic cooing system bleed port near the egr valve with a brass fitting. No need for a bleeder there and they break. I recommend them at 50 to 60K. Also the trans pan an connector sleeve will leak sometimes. That's kind of a bitch to do and I would never try to replace it on my back. I say it's a bitch but at 6 hours labor I would love to see more. Electrical splices are common problems but any Land Rover tech that's been around for a while should be able to find them easy enough. Wheel bearings in front get loose and noisy on the LR3 and the control arm bushings get loose and noisy on both LR3 and LR4. Haven't seen a lot of loose wheel bearings on LR4 , but a couple anyway. Another thing to look out for on the LR3 is poor heat out of the left side of the dash, that's a heater core believe it or not. Gotta believe the LR4 will develop that problem as it's pretty much the same heater box.

 

[Roverfire]

No problem. Drive them both. You will be able to make up your own mind. The 08 lr3 could still need the air suspension compressor. Corner valves in the suspension could cause it to sink down overnight. Still not real common but common enough to mention. If you decide on a LR3 replace the plastic cooing system bleed port near the egr valve with a brass fitting. No need for a bleeder there and they break. I recommend them at 50 to 60K. Also the trans pan an connector sleeve will leak sometimes. That's kind of a bitch to do and I would never try to replace it on my back. I say it's a bitch but at 6 hours labor I would love to see more. Electrical splices are common problems but any Land Rover tech that's been around for a while should be able to find them easy enough. Wheel bearings in front get loose and noisy on the LR3 and the control arm bushings get loose and noisy on both LR3 and LR4. Haven't seen a lot of loose wheel bearings on LR4 , but a couple anyway. Another thing to look out for on the LR3 is poor heat out of the left side of the dash, that's a heater core believe it or not. Gotta believe the LR4 will develop that problem as it's pretty much the same heater box.

Do you have a picture of where the bleeder port is?

 

[1920SF]

https://www.google.com/search?q=lr3...UICCgC&biw=1649&bih=900#imgrc=l6qAblK9EflVgM:

 

[discostew]

That's the one. But I just put a straight piece of brass fitting with no bleeder. Just a barbed junction. No need for a bleeder there.

 

[Roverfire]

Thanks for the tip. Will check mine today.

 

[Roverfire]

discostew I owe you a big thanks for the bleeder T connection. I checked mine today and it was cracked! I'm surprised it hadn't come apart yet as bad as the crack was. I replaced it and all is well. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[discostew]

Great. That thing will empty out your cooling system in a hurry. Did you just get a straight barbed fitting?

 

[Roverfire]

Yes I replaced it with a straight barbed one. The auto parts store only had a plastic one in that size. I will try the hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find a brass one. Here's a pic of what mine looked like. The crazy thing is it wasn't even leaking. I got lucky!

 

[Roverfire]

Went and bought a brass barbed coupler today and replaced the temporary plastic one I had in there. Was well worth the $2.50 it cost.