Have been getting real low operating temps (mid-low 180’s) on the LR3 (4.4 V8) and fan running a lot - any thoughts besides new fan clutch? Mpg has seemed unusually bad too which I assume is in part due to the fan being engaged so much. Heat is strong. Haven’t done any work to cooling system since early last year which was a flush and t stat replacement. Problem seemed to come and go but has been happening all the time lately. No codes
LR3 running cold
- Thread starter Howski
- Start date
Was it a genuine thermostat? I’ve seen several thermostats fail in those without setting faults
Thanks Jimmy. It was not. Actually planned to get a genuine but they were out of stock and didn’t think too much of it. How can I go about troubleshooting whether it’s a stuck open t stat?
When the fan runs a lot it can mean you have air in the system. If you don't use an air lift to fill them it can be a bitch to get the air out.
I’d think air in the system would’ve shown itself by now. No coolant loss, smell, etc since the work last year
Well usually the o ring around the thermostat rolls off, so a visual inspection would confirm that. The only way I know how to test a thermostat is to put it in water and heat the water with a thermometer in there. A thermostat is probably cheap enough to just replace if you already have it out.
If you hold the RPM up around 2,000 does it get hot? Then get cold again when you let it return to idle?
Is there any way to check, such as hose X will get hot first and hose Y will get warm only after the t stat opens? If I’m removing the housing I’m just going to put a new OEM housing/stat in.
Temps are always pretty consistent regardless of speed or rpm and certainly never gets hot.
Took a longer than normal commute this morning and couldn’t get above 185. Granted it is 30F outside. Fan not running all the time, usually not at idle, but when you start moving it whirrs up seemingly much more than it should. Seeming more and more like this could be a stuck t stat. Would replacing the coolant temp sensor be worthwhile at all?
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Nope, heat even across both.
May go ahead with replacing the t stat since it’s an easy job. Nice to know I won’t have to pull the whole housing again…
Well, pulled things apart and the thermostat does not have the common problem where it lets coolant through. Put the new Genuine one in to at least check that off the list.
Bled the system and went out for a drive - same issues persist. Fan running like mad, despite freezing ambient temps, and mid 180’s water temps. Any other suggestions on how I can diagnose or does everything point to the fan clutch?
Bled the system and went out for a drive - same issues persist. Fan running like mad, despite freezing ambient temps, and mid 180’s water temps. Any other suggestions on how I can diagnose or does everything point to the fan clutch?
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Do you mean the air out of the vents?
Asking cause I have this in the sport...I thought it was the heater core clogging/clogged.
Are you say this can be from air in the cooling system?
No I was just asking cause that would mean it’s a heater core. I’m seeing it on LR4’s now too.
Should my fan spin freely by hand when cold? It spins but not freely. If I pull the Relay (for troubleshooting only) how should the fan operate? After an initial minute or two on startup, should my fan be engaging at all until it his operating temp/thermostat opens?
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Why? The heat is piss warm and the coolant temp says the coolant is piss warm. I think I trust it.
Got any fan related fault codes? How did you bleed it? I ask because that usually means you have air in the system. put the vehicle in park. Hold the RPM up around 2000 rpm. See if the heat gets hot while your holding the RPM at 2000 rpm for about 2 min.
If it gets hot when you do that and then gets piss warm when you let the engine return to idle...you have air in it.
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I'm sorry but I don't see where he says that. The only mention I see about it is in his first post where he states the "heat is strong". I took this to mean hot air is coming out of the vents. Sorry if I missed/misunderstood something.
That’s correct HasBeen, heat has been hot and consistent throughout all this. Had this thing well bled before replacing the t stat and believe I’ve got it well bled after replacing (and losing very little coolant).
Unplugged the electrical to the fan clutch, went for a drive and little change in temps. Fan was quieter. Did manage to get it up to and over 190 but settled around 190. Plugged back in later and temps were the same though the fan seemed to be running less aggressively when re-plugged back in. So a little better but seems lower than it should be
Unplugged the electrical to the fan clutch, went for a drive and little change in temps. Fan was quieter. Did manage to get it up to and over 190 but settled around 190. Plugged back in later and temps were the same though the fan seemed to be running less aggressively when re-plugged back in. So a little better but seems lower than it should be