LR3 Rust?

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,240
90
over there
Im sorta thinking about getting a LR3 as a DD. My D1 is gettin rusty.

So in general, how are LR3s with rust issues?
I dislike working on rovers...I hate working on LR3's.

It's one thing to work on rusty hardware on discoveries, where there is usually ample room for drills, cut off wheels, etc. but there is no room on newer rovers. I have not replaced one EPB where I didn't have to drill, cut, chase threads.
Had to put front sway bar links on an '09 RR Sport this week. Eventually had to remove the front shocks to cut the upper links stud out.
Quality stuff these rovers are.

Search to see what it takes to replace the rusted out brake lines on an LR3.

then wait until your heater core clogs up!!! but when it does, just cut the hard lines and add some heater hoses because it won't be the last time you replace it.

My suggestion is (if you absolutely have to stick with rovers) find a clean D2 with less rust than your D1.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
5,662
134
32
Los Angeles, Ca
I dislike working on rovers...I hate working on LR3's.

It's one thing to work on rusty hardware on discoveries, where there is usually ample room for drills, cut off wheels, etc. but there is no room on newer rovers. I have not replaced one EPB where I didn't have to drill, cut, chase threads.
Had to put front sway bar links on an '09 RR Sport this week. Eventually had to remove the front shocks to cut the upper links stud out.
Quality stuff these rovers are.

Search to see what it takes to replace the rusted out brake lines on an LR3.

then wait until your heater core clogs up!!! but when it does, just cut the hard lines and add some heater hoses because it won't be the last time you replace it.

My suggestion is (if you absolutely have to stick with rovers) find a clean D2 with less rust than your D1.
I don't think I could disagree with you more! LR3's are great compared to a DII and much easier to work on in my opinion. When I moved to NY in August I was expecting to deal with a lot more rust, but really I've only had a small number that are that rusty, and even then, most of the fasteners come apart. I've only used a torch once since I moved.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
Not really. Lr3's rust pretty easily from what I saw. More so than d2's.
I think they do better . I work in Wisconsin , if I know anything it's rust . Disco 1 is really bad because of that steel cross section of the frame sitting right under the rear door strikers . All around the door edges where the aluminum skin is attached to the steel doorframe . Under the rear quarter glass seals and alpine windows . Inside the tail door goes to shit fast when the door leaks like about half the trucks out there .
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
I dislike working on rovers...I hate working on LR3's.

It's one thing to work on rusty hardware on discoveries, where there is usually ample room for drills, cut off wheels, etc. but there is no room on newer rovers. I have not replaced one EPB where I didn't have to drill, cut, chase threads.
Had to put front sway bar links on an '09 RR Sport this week. Eventually had to remove the front shocks to cut the upper links stud out.
Quality stuff these rovers are.

Search to see what it takes to replace the rusted out brake lines on an LR3.

then wait until your heater core clogs up!!! but when it does, just cut the hard lines and add some heater hoses because it won't be the last time you replace it.

My suggestion is (if you absolutely have to stick with rovers) find a clean D2 with less rust than your D1.
I have to admit the hardware can get pretty rusted up . I guess I was thinking more about body rust . Like cosmetic stuff . But the disco 2 ? . You can't keep coolant in them . We already couldn't get those shitty frame cross members off when they were 2 years old .
 
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Jagfixer

Well-known member
Feb 25, 2008
357
2
Millstadt, IL
I accidently found a trouble spot. In the rear of the front fender where the mud flaps are. The accumulation of mud and leaves build up in corner. Pulled inner liner on fender to find a socket and found the gooey mess. Cleaned and oiled before putting back together. Will check every couple years now to prevent deterioration of body.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
You would think they would rust down in those channels by the sill area . Most of the early ones look like creeks .i guess the body harness is a problem area .
 
Jan 25, 2010
3,543
3
your moms bed
Haven't noticed anything above average on mine. Then again mine spent the first 3/4 of it's life in CA. I'll take a Cali truck over cold weather package any day.
 

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,314
61
minnesota
Had to put front sway bar links on an '09 RR Sport this week. Eventually had to remove the front shocks to cut the upper links stud out.
I'm doing the front and rear sway refresh on my '09 right now.

It's such a PITA, I came searching to see if I was missing something.

Not sure if I am glad, or disheartened to find that it does indeed suck this much :LOL:

The upper fronts I was able to do thanks to a DeWalt security torx bit set I happened to have. Put the T50 through the end of an 8mm wrench, anchored the other end of wrench against the control arm near the ball joint, and it miraculously stayed intact while I tediously got the nut off.

Rear upper link also sucks due to lack of room. Found it was easier to anchor the wrench on the nut and unscrew the ball thread. Drivers side I was able to zip off with an air ratchet.

Passenger side resulted in:

- striping the end of the hex with air ratchet and shallow 8mm socket

- making progress, but eventually cracking the 1/4" 8mm deep well

- making more progress, but eventually cracking the 1/4" 5/16" deep well

Now I need to go buy more sockets.

Road salt is evil 👿
 

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,314
61
minnesota
Are you putting the bushings in it also? Those bushings get loose and sound like loose lumber bouncing around.
After getting the drivers rear link off, I noticed the rear bushings are super loose, so I ordered a set (y)

I read the horrors of the front driver bushing replacement, but thankfully both fronts are still tight.

If I do end up having to do the fronts, would one of these S wrenches help decrease the amount of disassembly for the job?

Screenshot_20200413-131456.png
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
I don't think it's going to be as bad as you think. I think I use a flex head ratcheting wrench. It's been a while. But I don't really think that wrench you posted will help. I have a set of wrenches that are socket at one end. I use those on these too.