LR4 Transfer Case and Rear Locker control

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
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Not yet owner, but likely will be.

As I understand the traction system, the transfer case and rear locker are not in your control. They both automatically engage based on various sensors in the system.

Is there any way around this? GAP Tool? Does applying brake and accelerator simultaneously effect the traction control at all?

I am having a hard time understanding how a selectable locker, like the ARB is useful on an LR4.

Anyone with a selectable locker on LR4 care to tell us how it works with traction control?

Anyone with decent knowledge care to compare the LR locker with ARB? Which would operate better?
 

Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
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Alabama
No way to manually control the traction/terrain control, center, or rear (if fitted) diff locks. If you’ve not driven an air sprung Rover these systems are light years ahead of the D2/P38 era. A rear locker just makes the system work a bit less. Unless you’re really trying to get into the rocks and technical trails the standard traction/terrain control should get the job done. Of course if you can find one with the factory semi-rare HD package with the rear locker then go for it
 

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
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Huh. I just saw this and it looks like rock crawl mode permanently locks center and rear.

This is a 2016,

It may work different than the 2013.

I would guess that the 2013 would have rock crawl mode as well, and even without the rear locker, you could permanently lock the center diff in rock craw mode and then engage the ARB.
 
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MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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In rock crawl the truck defaults to both diffs locked, but it will unlock them if it senses you need the slip.
 

MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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LI, NY
That kind of sucks, but I have only driven LR4 on road thus far.
The truck is smarter than you, it works great. I had my doubts, and have had trucks with selectables. These things are silly capable.
 
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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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That kind of sucks, but I have only driven LR4 on road thus far.
Trust me. I don't know how good you are at all that locked diff crazy offroad shit that makes your asshole pucker up. That truck is better at it. All of it. Before you start modifying the thing go out and get used to it. Spend some money on tires. That will probably help it.
 
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bri

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Apr 20, 2004
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Trust me. I don't know how good you are at all that locked diff crazy offroad shit that makes your asshole pucker up. That truck is better at it. All of it. Before you start modifying the thing go out and get used to it. Spend some money on tires. That will probably help it.

Likely the LR4 will remain stock in form for a while, mainly for your reason, to get to know it. It will get the largest practical tires that perform without rubbing.... so nothing extreme.
 
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ERover82

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Likely the LR4 will remain stock in form for a while, mainly for your reason, to get to know it. It will get the largest practical tires that perform without rubbing.... so nothing extreme.

Unfortunately unless you add strut spacers or go for a $$$ subframe lift, that "largest" tire is a pathetic 31".
 

bri

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Apr 20, 2004
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The truck is smarter than you, it works great. I had my doubts, and have had trucks with selectables. These things are silly capable.

Whether I am smarter than a truck might be arguable. ;-) I am not doubtful about how capable they are, I am just wondering how the system works.

I am moderately familiar with how TC works in a "generic" sense. I would really enjoy a detailed explanation of how all the sensors work with the system and how they react, but have yet to find one for the LR4 or LR vehicles. Here is one example for how I would like to understand it.

You are approaching a number of obstacles that are going to cross axle you and lift tires numerous times.

Place the TC into rock crawl mode perhaps mud and ruts and walk on through, would seem to be the strategy.

But for speed and control you use the accelerator to keep constant power to the engine and then the brake to control speed.

How does this effect TC at all ?


I think that the video above is impressive and shows the capability of the LR4 TC, especially with crappy tires.

I would suspect that if there is a mode where both center and rear are locked by default and become unlocked the primary reason for this is to avoid carnage.
 

Howski

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Oct 19, 2009
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Alabama
Unfortunately unless you add strut spacers or go for a $$$ subframe lift, that "largest" tire is a pathetic 31".

31” is about as large as you can go with a mild lift on a D1/D2 too… You can fit a 32” on LR3 but LR4 is limited by frame horns IIRC
 
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bri

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Apr 20, 2004
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Unfortunately unless you add strut spacers or go for a $$$ subframe lift, that "largest" tire is a pathetic 31".

I do not believe that this is going to bother me too much. I run 235/85R16 on my D1. This is a whopping 31.7", which would equate to an additional .35" clearance. The largest I have run on D1 is 255/85R16 (33") and I no longer see the need for this. They only time I would need something like that is to deliberately run a "sporting/difficult" trail. When I got to 33" tires, dual lockers, etc. I could just walk through many trails like they were nothing. No skill involved. To have "fun" wheeling took more and more difficult trails and likely that shit would break. Usually these kind of trails are run with multiple D1, so that you have support. No thanks, and most of the stuff I do now is 100% solo. Doing "behind the rocks" or "Blanca" are memories.

I will outfit with skids and protection and a satellite phone now. ;-)

Only time will tell how much a newer LR4 will be modified, but one thing is almost certain is that I would like it to remain somewhat stealthy.

Now back to TC and Diffs!
 

bri

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Apr 20, 2004
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So... 2 votes now for Brian is NOT as smart as a truck.

What does your truck do in Rock Crawl mode, double footed with constant accelerator and modulated brake for speed control?
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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31” is about as large as you can go with a mild lift on a D1/D2 too… You can fit a 32” on LR3 but LR4 is limited by frame horns IIRC

Also limited by rear wheel well shape. A 32 on an LR4 is proportionally much smaller than a 32 on a D1 as the LR4 has 13.6" longer wheelbase and less body ground clearance.
 
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Blue

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Mar 26, 2004
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AZ
So... 2 votes now for Brian is NOT as smart as a truck.

What does your truck do in Rock Crawl mode, double footed with constant accelerator and modulated brake for speed control?
LOL....not saying you're not as smart as a truck, just that the traction control is so advanced that now does all the work for you. I had an ARB rear locker in my '96 D1 and it was absolutely necessary every time I went off road. Otherwise that thing would get mildly cross-axled and just sit and spin. I had planned on putting another ARB rear in my '04 D2 but the traction control amazed me. Once you learned to double-foot a bit and modulate the throttle and brake and the same time, it was damn near a locker in my opinion. Now the technology is to a level where you just point and click and you're fine as long as there is traction. I've gotten myself stuck twice in my LR4 - both times when going very slow in very loose, unconsolidated silty sand & gravel outwash. In the picture below I was looking for a good camping spot up the wash and driving very slow and it just sank down. If I had some speed it would just keep pushing over the top and not get bogged down. Note...I bought a couple Maxtrax after this trip. Also note that my compromise all-terrain tires suck in this loose stuff.

To be perfectly honest, I've never even tried rock crawl mode. The first time I got stuck in the loose sand I tried the sand mode (or whatever it's called) and it didn't do anything for me. The only thing I do differently off road is usually put the transmission in sport mode because it improves throttle response and holds gears longer. Good for maintaining speed and power (and traction) going up deep, sandy, twisty washes.

On Saturday I was a few miles up a very rocky and sandy wash and I wanted to get over to the next gulley to the right for a good flat smooth camping spot. Rather than get beaten back & forth over a quarter mile of big chunky rocks, I just put it in low range and went up & over a big steep rocky hill. The approach was pretty damn steep with rocks ranging from basketball size to gravel. The kind of slope where you take a few steps at a time and just about slide backwards a half step for every forward step. I found a path that avoided the basketballs and just drove right up. The traction control and automatic locking/unlocking center diff and the automatic rear locker just made the truck walk right up it like it was nothing. You can hear an occasional short tire spin and then traction control says whoa there little tire, settle down, and it just keeps you moving. The slope down the other side was even steeper (my buddy was outside on the ground at the desired camping spot and he started waving his arms and said not a good idea) but the truck just crawls right down in low gear with barely any sliding.

There's also a window on the display screen where you can watch the truck automatically locking and unlocking the center diff and rear diff. They actually pop in & out of lock quite a bit.

Now I think I will investigate the different modes. I've just never needed to up to this point because the truck is that good. After a good day of off roading it even shoots rainbows out of the tailpipes.
 

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Blue

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Mar 26, 2004
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Unfortunately unless you add strut spacers or go for a $$$ subframe lift, that "largest" tire is a pathetic 31".
I'm currently running 285/60/18 all-terrains on my LR4 which is 31.46" according to the manufacturer and 31.47" according to a tire calculator. I rub occasionally on the front frame horns. I ground them down a bit but I still touch occasionally. I'm planning on going with a 275/65/18 MT which is 32.09" according to the calculator but most manufacturers are showing more like 32.1 all the way up to 32.4. The General Grabber X3 specs at 32.07 so I may try those. I'm also researching the strut spacers (Lucky 8's SYA kit).
 

p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Trust me. I don't know how good you are at all that locked diff crazy offroad shit that makes your asshole pucker up. That truck is better at it. All of it. Before you start modifying the thing go out and get used to it. Spend some money on tires. That will probably help it.
This ^
 

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
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@Blue

Very cool. Certainly 3 tons of vehicle must be harder in that sand than D1. I cannot wait to try out the LR4 off road, I am looking forward to it.

The coming in/out of lock is what will alter my style. After all the best traction HAS TO BE with all differentials locked. Might not always yield the best results, i.e. crabbing, but it has to be the best traction.

Sometimes I like to go over the basketballs. ;-)

If I am not going to go over 25MPH and am not on pavement I usually just stick it in low range and keep it there. Just something I have always done.