Lucky8’s Project Discovery 3

[ERover82]

I said "17" steel wheels" are easier to air down. It's easier to air down a 17" tire than a 18" or larger tire of equal outer diameter because there's more sidewall. I hope you knew that.

They're $110 each.

17" is simply more popular and thus has better tire selection
http://tireguides.com/tiretips/tiredocument/11

Steel wheels can be repaired easily and do not crack. Alloy wheels can be very strong, but their brittleness, weight savings, bling, and cost serve no useful purpose off road.

 

[D Chapman]

I said "17" steel wheels" are easier to air down. It's easier to air down a 17" tire than a 18" or larger tire of equal outer diameter because there's more sidewall. I hope you knew that.

This is funny.

So a tire is easier to air down if it has a more sidewall? How does this work exactly? What makes it "easier"? Is it only one step to air the tire down instead of five steps or something? Does a 17" tire have some sort of air down assist feature? I don't get it.

I bet these tires wold be really easy to air down, though. Look at all that sidewall. Sure easy, right?

They're $110 each.

$110 for a steel wheel? Seriously? Holy shit! I don't think I paid that much for my Allied beadlocks. When did steel wheels get so expensive?

17" is simply more popular and thus has better tire selection
http://tireguides.com/tiretips/tiredocument/11

WTF is this link and how is that relevant to the conversation? You going to put some P205's on your LR3? LOL.

The LR3 needs a D rated tire. If you go to a C rating the truck rides and handles like shit. I know this from experience. C rated tires are horrible on an LR3. With C rated tires the truck will sway in the road and the truck feels less stable. Add a heavy load to the truck and it only get worse. I tried towing my Airstream with C rated tires and it was scary.

So make your comments relevant and show us some D or E rated tires in 17" that are suited for the LR3 that are not available in 18". Good luck.

But if we rolled with your tire theory, why not just go with a 15" wheel? You think 17" tires are more common than 15" tires? You think there is a wider verity of tires available in 17" than 15"? So why stop at 17"? Why not just go for broke and get some 15" wheels? Wouldn't that be more better?

Steel wheels can be repaired easily and do not crack. Alloy wheels can be very strong, but their brittleness, weight savings, bling, and cost serve no useful purpose off road.

Really? I guess Walker Evan's never got the memo.

It's true steel wheels can be hammered back into shape to get you off the trail. I've seen a few steel wheels side-loaded so bad that the truck was not drivable on the street, but of course that's rare. What's also rare is a cracked LR3 alloy wheel. I bet you've never seen or heard of one. Furthermore, if I'm out of town, or in town for that matter, I have a feeling I could find and replace my alloy LR3 wheel much easier than finding a spare 17" steel wheel. If you ever damaged one of these steel wheels you'd have to call up Justin at L8 and have him Kustom make you another wheel and have it shipped to you. But if you had 18's, or even 19's, you could probably source a wheel much easier and faster so you could get the truck home under its own power.

 

[ArmyRover]

$110 for a steel wheel? Seriously? Holy shit! I don't think I paid that much for my Allied beadlocks. When did steel wheels get so expensive?

Got a link to New Allied Beadlocks for a Land Rover for less than $110? 5x6.5 would be great for me.

But if we rolled with your tire theory, why not just go with a 15" wheel? You think 17" tires are more common than 15" tires? You think there is a wider verity of tires available in 17" than 15"? So why stop at 17"? Why not just go for broke and get some 15" wheels? Wouldn't that be more better?

15's would be nice but, that whole having to remove the brake calipers for clearance thing is kind of a bitch don't ya think?

It's true steel wheels can be hammered back into shape to get you off the trail. I've seen a few steel wheels side-loaded so bad that the truck was not drivable on the street, but of course that's rare. What's also rare is a cracked LR3 alloy wheel. I bet you've never seen or heard of one. Furthermore, if I'm out of town, or in town for that matter, I have a feeling I could find and replace my alloy LR3 wheel much easier than finding a spare 17" steel wheel. If you ever damaged one of these steel wheels you'd have to call up Justin at L8 and have him Kustom make you another wheel and have it shipped to you. But if you had 18's, or even 19's, you could probably source a wheel much easier and faster so you could get the truck home under its own power.

Well you could call around looking for a replacement right then but, even my cheap fuck ass buys a spare wheel and tire....

:victory:

 

[ERover82]

This is funny.

So a tire is easier to air down if it has a more sidewall? How does this work exactly? What makes it "easier"? Is it only one step to air the tire down instead of five steps or something? Does a 17" tire have some sort of air down assist feature? I don't get it.

I bet these tires wold be really easy to air down, though. Look at all that sidewall. Sure easy, right?

Do I really need to spell it out for you Dan? A b c d e fucking g.. It's easier to air down a tire when there's more fucking tire to air down. More sidewall means you don't hit the fucking ground.

$110 for a steel wheel? Seriously? Holy shit! I don't think I paid that much for my Allied beadlocks. When did steel wheels get so expensive?

First they're for cheap fucks, now they're too expensive. You should run for office.

WTF is this link and how is that relevant to the conversation? You going to put some P205's on your LR3? LOL.

The LR3 needs a D rated tire. If you go to a C rating the truck rides and handles like shit. I know this from experience. C rated tires are horrible on an LR3. With C rated tires the truck will sway in the road and the truck feels less stable. Add a heavy load to the truck and it only get worse. I tried towing my Airstream with C rated tires and it was scary.

So make your comments relevant and show us some D or E rated tires in 17" that are suited for the LR3 that are not available in 18". Good luck.

But if we rolled with your tire theory, why not just go with a 15" wheel? You think 17" tires are more common than 15" tires? You think there is a wider verity of tires available in 17" than 15"? So why stop at 17"? Why not just go for broke and get some 15" wheels? Wouldn't that be more better?

If you can't figure that out then you're beyond help. Nothing anyone says will penetrate your personal reality distortion field.

If a 15 would clear the brakes and handle well then I'm all for it.

Really? I guess Walker Evan's never got the memo.

It's true steel wheels can be hammered back into shape to get you off the trail. I've seen a few steel wheels side-loaded so bad that the truck was not drivable on the street, but of course that's rare. What's also rare is a cracked LR3 alloy wheel. I bet you've never seen or heard of one. Furthermore, if I'm out of town, or in town for that matter, I have a feeling I could find and replace my alloy LR3 wheel much easier than finding a spare 17" steel wheel. If you ever damaged one of these steel wheels you'd have to call up Justin at L8 and have him Kustom make you another wheel and have it shipped to you. But if you had 18's, or even 19's, you could probably source a wheel much easier and faster so you could get the truck home under its own power.

You're all over the place here and really reaching. Why don't you just get some 20"s and show us how superior they are off road. We'd love to see some faggy rapper dubs on the rocks.

 

[D Chapman]

Do I really need to spell it out for you Dan? A b c d e fucking g.. It's easier to air down a tire when there's more fucking tire to air down. More sidewall means you don't hit the fucking ground.

Wait, so the bigger the tire the easier it is to air it down? I still don't get this, so yes, you do have to spell it out for me. Try not to use ebonics this time.

Explain to me, and everyone else for that matter, why one wheel/tire size is "easier" to air down than another. I'd really like to know. Me being a web wheeler and all I have never heard of this. I never knew that airing down a 17" tire was easier than airing down an 18" or a 20" tire. I must really be missing something here.

I take my 18" tires down to about 12psi on the LR3 when off-road. Explain to me how a 17" tire would be easier to air down.

First they're for cheap fucks, now they're too expensive. You should run for office.

You're one of those dipshits who think being a cheapfuck is all about the money spent on an item. It's not. Being a cheapfuck has to do with the parts you buy, not the price you pay.

For example, you could spend $600 on a MileMarker winch, or you could pay $600 for a SuperWinch. One is obviously a cheapfuck winch. It has nothing to do with the price. It has everything to do with the quality of the part.

If you can't figure that out then you're beyond help. Nothing anyone says will penetrate your personal reality distortion field.

Well, I can't figure it out. You posted some link to some half-assed web page about most popular tire sizes that have zero to deal with available tire sizes suited to fit a Land Rover LR3. Furthermore, according to your link it would have us believe that there are virtually no 15" light truck tires available. Is this really the case? Are 17" wheels/tires more popular than 15" wheel/tires? Really?

You're all over the place here and really reaching. Why don't you just get some 20"s and show us how superior they are off road. We'd love to see some faggy rapper dubs on the rocks.

I'm reaching? First you tell us how weak alloy wheels are and that they're not suited for off-road because they'll crack and break and that they're not fixable or some shit. Yet, Walker Evans has been making alloy wheels for off-road use for as long as I can remember. You see Walker Evans wheels at Baja and KOH, but somehow according to you they're weak and should be replaced.

I'm not saying that alloy wheels can't be destroyed. I know they can. I've done it once. I've also destroyed steel wheels. In fact I destroyed a steel wheel about 2-weeks ago on my trailer when I had a tire blowout. Yet you can't show me any LR3 wheels that have failed but want us to believe that they're crap and need to be replaced if you're going off-road in your LR3. Who's reaching here? You're telling us they'll fail, but you can't sow us any that have failed. I mean there has to be someone out there somewhere who has busted an LR3 wheel off-road, right?

My point is, when it comes time to replace one of those 17" wheels, what are you going to do? As far as I can tell your only option is to call Justin, hope he's got them in stock, and have it shipped. Just hope you don't need it right away for one reason or another. Is that really reasonable? Why would you put yourself in that position? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using an 18" wheel/tire on the LR3. There is virtually no reasonable benefit for spending $550 on five wheels to switch to a 17" tire.

 

[ERover82]

I'm not interested in continuing this. As others have said, you're right.

 

[D Chapman]

I know I'm right.

I just wish it was a little easier to air these damn 18's down.

 

[pinkytoe69]

I'm not interested in continuing this. As others have said, you're right.

In fairness to Dan...

The way you worded things makes it sound like your point is that the actual act of removing air from a tire is more difficult with less sidewall.

If your point was meant to be that it is easier to drive and deal with an aired-down tire if you have more sidewall, then that was not entirely clear.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I think alloys are easier to air down because LR3's automatically do that through the leaking tire pressure monitoring system sensors.

 

[Mack73]

Holy ish what a thread. The discoweb reputation continues.

Being able to fit 17's without modifying the brakes is a great thing. Yes the looks aren't as good as the OEM's alloys - but guess what, it is much cheaper.

Reason for 17's -
1. You can fit a true MT in a diameter less than 32". There are no currently made MT tires in less than 32" in 18". Which means when the system trips and you are dumped on bump stops, you can still drive the car. I have personally seen a LR3 dump to the bumps on 32" tires and the damage that can be done.
2. Related to #1, 32" might not fit. For '08 and '09 LR3's and all LR4's Land Rover switched to a weld on chassis brace at the rear of the front wheel opening. This can rub on 32" tires on some trucks like mine. Meaning you don't have to cut/weld on the chassis to get a real MT.
3. Yes you can air down to a lower PSI without risking damage to the wheel. The fact that you have more sidewall means you can air down to a lower PSI. If you only have 1" of sidewall, you can't lower the air pressure as much as you have 3" of sidewall. With a lower air pressure you will have a larger foot print which is the entire point of airing down.


And here are my credentials. I have OEM 17" wheels with BFG MT KM2's on my LR3

And why I wanted MT's

 

[Devildog01]

Those are pretty flowers by your driveway.

 

[DiscoPhoto]

So you bought mud terrains just so you could drive through Vermont in spring?

 

[mgreenspan]

I don't think Dan's beef is with "17 inch" vs "18 inch". I think it's "17 inch steel wheels that look like shit on an LR3" vs "18 inch stock alloys that look good on an LR3". But I'm not Dan so I hope he speaks for himself cause it makes this way more fun.

 

[Mack73]

Those are pretty flowers by your driveway.

Not my driveway, but I'm sure the owner would say thanks

 

[seventyfive]

Before all the squabbling continues can somebody please explain to me why, over and over, a lot of you guys use the adjective 'true' so much????

Are you guys worried someone is going to pull out a level and tape measure? Granted I understand a lot of you guys have no idea how to set a truck up and need to know exactly what size tire will fit, but does it really matter if it's 31.8" versus a 'true' 32"? At the end of the day it's still in the street tire range. It's like saying my dick isn't 7.8" it's a true 8".

Then all the nit picking over time needed to air down, as if it really matters.

You LR3 and newer Rover owners have something very handy to use. Lower your truck to access height or even better deflate the bags with a scan tool, and measure what size tire will fit!

Then the big back and forth about this wheel or that wheel. WHO CARES! Find the smallest wheel you can fit on your truck with the tallest tire, it's not rocket science.

A lot of 'information' on the internet is opinion based on what that person thinks is right or wrong. Although there is a good amount of trial and error that has been documented on this forum, which is helpful.



Maybe one day I'll understand why you guys think driving thru mud holes is neato! There is a rock setting on those new turds as well!

 

[seventyfive]

So you bought mud terrains just so you could drive through Vermont in spring?

Beat me to it.

 

[whatroad]

The most important part has been completely skipped here....where's the F'in snorkel? And big ass roof rack, you can't possibly even leave the driveway without either of those. The truck just won't go...

 

[seventyfive]

Really? I guess Walker Evan's never got the memo.
.

Neither did trail ready

Or btr

Or interco

And for all you flatbillers....

Only reason I still have steel wheels is due to not having a complete set of alloy bead locks yet. Steel is no way stronger or lighter than steel.
Keep in mind factory alloys go thru way more destructive testing than any steel wheel, so if you're looking for strength just stick with the stock alloys.
Fwiw, we've hammered more than enough factory alloys at the shop so they will hold a bead. You just need to be careful not to crack the rim when whacking it.

 

[seventyfive]

In my opinion, after years of having marsh racing wheels, steel wheels are terrible.....





But the key is with some of you guys, they are very cheap.

Fwiw, trail ready has 5x120 wheels, if you want to get them for the LR3. But then the thread turns into "alloy beadlocks do not compliment a Land Rover", because as we all know it's not about function it's all about form. And if it doesn't have small skinny coopers, a snorkel, roof rack with several yard trimming tools attached to it, and an orvis seat cover it just isn't proper.

Edit: steel wheels aren't actually terrible, but I have learned they aren't better compared to alloys. Especially beadlock alloys when comparing the weight.

 

[mgreenspan]

Keep in mind factory alloys go thru way more destructive testing than any steel wheel, so if you're looking for strength just stick with the stock alloys.

Don't you know nothing... Expedition... Field repairs...