Cool, The swivel balls look okay. I'll see if PT has a seal kit with new races and bearings.
It has 193K on it so far, well, that's where it was before I put the engine and crap in it. So, they may be dead. Believe it or not, but I'm the second owner. I've had it for about 2.5 years now.
Nick, he doesn't even know if that's his problem!
Well, still doing the wheel hop, not nearly as bad as before. I was hoping a short-cut would fix it for a bit, looks like I'll have to order the rebuild kit. Might as well do it right, its the only thing left to rebuild on the front end.
I add another vote for swivel pin preload. My 89 was doing the same and I had it fixed in 45 min by removing a couple of shims per side. With that said, there's hardly an old Rover that can't be improved by replacing the bushings throughout, if they haven't been done. Go genuine, not the poly ones.
FWIW, a long grade 5 1/2-13 bolt, large flange nut, and a couple of sockets do wonders at the radius arms bushings. It may be harder to get the old ones out - as a last resort, you can drill out rubber between the outer bushing steel shell and the middle, and use a large screwdriver and a hammer to crush the outer shell.I like Poly bushings where at the axle to radius arm mounts. But I use Rubber bushings at the radius arm to frame mount. I don't have a press good enough to get those rubber bushings into the radius arms. I've used the poly bushings on a Range Rover P38 and D2. I haven't had any issues with them. They flex just fine for my needs, and my ride has not become any worse.
What don't you like about the polly bushings?