Manifold Installation in D1

[bodhizattva]

What tools should I have available to install a exhaust manifold in a D1? Is it necessary to replace all the gaskets and bolts? And is there anything I should be aware of or concerned about when performing such an installation or is it as straight forward as it appears?


Thanks for your help,

-Cj

 

[nosivad_bor]

personally i buy all new screws and gaskets (at minimum gaskets)

use plenty of PB on the area before removing so you don't strip anything.

on reassembly us hi-temp anti-seize on the new screws.

other than that its very very simple

 

[bodhizattva]

I need to purchase the tools to do this and want to make sure I have everything on hand. Do I need a torque wrench? Do you know the socket(s) size? Will I need an extension for the wrench?

Also, is there a pattern to use when tightening the bolts?

Thanks for your help!

-Cj

 

[nosivad_bor]

i dont recall the bolt size but i can tell you its metric and you'll want to buy at least a small kit that will have a variety of socket sizes, extensions and a half decent ratchet.

personally i don't use a torque wrench for this job but i have a good grasp on what is tight enough.

sounds like you are pretty green if you are buying tools. can you tell me more about what you are doing and why?

 

[Paul Grant]

Socket size is 14mm or 9/16th will work as well. I didn't have a chance to email you back but give me a call tomorrow and we'll work something out about getting the manifold installed for you. The biggest pain will be getting the three nuts off the studs (13mm).

 

[smelly pirelli]

dude down load a rave manual very helpfull, where are you in ny, doing same job soon!

 

[antichrist]

Exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking if not tightened correctly. I always start from the center and work out, I do use a torque wrench.
I can tell you the driver's side is a royal PITA, trying to get to the lock tabs to bend them out of the way. I use lock washers when replacing.
A 24" extension is hand for getting to the y-pipe bolts. A 13mm flex socket came in handy for some of the manifold bolts.
I use Permatex copper spray gasket sealer on the gaskets.

 

[bleizit]

bodhizattva: Here is a link to the rave cd's you'll need if you do much on your own. No matter how much experience you have, the workshop manual is your friend against a multi-beer error...http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=13&Itemid=29 . If you're buying tools, quality counts and you do need a torque wrench! For those of us that have worked on vehicles for awhile, it's a personal decision, but with you being new and dealing with aluminum... it's necessary IMHO. Good Luck!

 

[toyfreak]

just did mine and the hardest part IMO is the y pipe studs
rusty bitches
i would spray them a couple times with some PB and they still might break, just take your time with these
loosen them a little and spray again if you half to
over all its pretty easy though

 

[Paul Grant]

It won't matter if the studs break because he is replacing the manifold. The one he bought from me has three prefectly good studs in place and ready to go. But, you are right, I always find the right side nuts to be the biggest pain. Use of an impact gun is the best for removing the nuts. You don't build up torque on the stud that way.

 

[RovinAround]

On this same topic.. My dumb a$$ just sheared off a manifold bolt. Somehow the donut gasket shifted between the manifold and downpipe. I did the right things.. sprayed and sprayed, loosen a bit, re tighten, and loosen again trying to work the nut off. Sheared the damned bolt. Do I have to replace the manifold now, or is it commonplace to have a new stud installed? (I'm too embarassed to ask my old man...) 96 Disco, 4.0, passenger side.
Thanks, Rovin

 

[Paul Grant]

The passenger side is definitely the hardest to reach from below. What you will probably need to do is remove the exhaust manifold from the truck. To remove broken studs I usually put the manifold in a vise, heat AROUND the broken stud with an acetylene torch until the manifold is glowing, then with the help of a vise grip, try to slowly remove the broken bit. Patience is a plus. Alternatively, if you want, I have plenty of manifolds available for sale.

 

[peter sherman]

On this same topic.. My dumb a$$ just sheared off a manifold bolt. Somehow the donut gasket shifted between the manifold and downpipe. I did the right things.. sprayed and sprayed, loosen a bit, re tighten, and loosen again trying to work the nut off. Sheared the damned bolt. Do I have to replace the manifold now, or is it commonplace to have a new stud installed? (I'm too embarassed to ask my old man...) 96 Disco, 4.0, passenger side.
Thanks, Rovin

you mean the stud?