Does anyone know what the purpose of the metal bracket is on the negitive battery wire? I am guessing it is a required ground. I ask because I recently bought a new battery and and had a new negitive terminal installed. The place I bought the battery replaced the negitive terminal for only $2.50 so I had them do it. The one day I noticed my guages were blinking slightly and the power cut out once when I pressed the brakes. I noticed the bracket was disconnected and reattached it. After I hooked it back up everything was back to normal. Does this sound right.
metal bracket on negitive terminal
- Thread starter Carl_kps
- Start date
Has something to do with grounding that large fuse panel that it was attached to, there should have been several wires coming out of the box connected to that metal bracket. I know that when I unbolt the bracket from that box the dome lights turn off.
That makes sense because I had issues with the dome and panel light going dim and bright. I also had my transmission light light up and then go out. I also had the car stop at idle when I hit the brake (all power cut out). I reattached the bracket and everything went back to normal. I tested the voltage and I have 13.7 volts with the engine at idle and there the voltage remains constant.
Yeah, the chassis of most vehicles is electrically isolated from the frame and engine, so in order for any electrics grounded to the body to work, there has to be a ground point to complete the circuit. There is also a flexible grounding strap from the engine to the chassis.
I had an old Jeep CJ where the small wire between the battery GND and front fender rusted off. Whenever I turned on the headlights or heater fan, the engine would pretty much die. If I was driving and hit the flashers, the engine would die and come back to life in synch with the turn lights... Pretty exciting in traffic
Kev
I had an old Jeep CJ where the small wire between the battery GND and front fender rusted off. Whenever I turned on the headlights or heater fan, the engine would pretty much die. If I was driving and hit the flashers, the engine would die and come back to life in synch with the turn lights... Pretty exciting in traffic
Kev
u can get a braided grounding strap from the local parts store, connect the flange off teh negative cable you speak of to the chassis or the engine. I ran a small cable from said cable flange to chassis, and a wire direct from the batterty post to the body mounted negative terminal strip with the 3 bolts in it