minor issues with new OME lift -- 99 Disco SD

Apexdisco

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
691
0
42
Castle Rock, CO
I've got the following suspension lift installed: N45F/N46 (shocks)
762 HD for the rear and 751 HDfor the front. I also replaced the stock steering damper with an OME.

I've noticed some rattling coming from the front suspension on the passenger side. At first I got worried and thought something wasn't tightened down or missing. It almost sounds like the spring is rattling around. Another thought I had was the damper is bouncing off it's inner shock causing the noise. I checked everything and it looks fine. Any ideas?

Also, I changed out my front tie rod ends. They were shot, I still need to change out the ones just behind them. Anyway, the steering is very loose, especially at highway driving speeds. I assumed the replacement of the steering damper would help with the looseness, at least some bit. Plus I purchased new tires (245/75R16's) which I know also factors how the steering response is. Considering all this and the fact the the truck is now about 3" higher than stock, is there anything else I can do to stiffen up the steering. Or is this just something that comes with a lift and I just need to get used to it.

The steering has actually scared me a few times while trying to pass semi's through narrow lanes.

Also, the truck has had an alignment and they weren't able to get my steering wheel back to center. It's off a bit and that in itself is annoying. I guess I can fix this myself?

Thanks all.
 

Attachments

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
5,779
44
US
I would not expect to get 3" of lift with only OME shocks and springs and as a result would not expect wandering/steering issues with this setup and 245/75 tires. However if you do have 3" of lift you might expect to have some wandering issues due to loss of caster. This is typically corrected by redrilling your swvel balls (expensive, but the correct way) or by using caster corrected radius arms. However before doing this if you have higher milage on the rig, you might wish to do all front end bushings and swvel preload.

Check your alignment yourself via the most accurate method possible.

Centering the steering is done with the drag link and should be very easy by loosening clamps and turning it until strait, make small adjustments at a time. You might wish to at least releave the some resistance by jacking the vehicle. If you have the service manual, a description of it should be there.
 

Apexdisco

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
691
0
42
Castle Rock, CO
Thanks bri, I've been meaning to get the bushings done. Is it cheaper to purchase a whole kit and replace when needed? Or do I just buy what I need now?

I've got the RAVE cd so I'll look into the drag link.

The approx 3" of lift comes from the new tires 245/75 and the OME lift.

Also, swivel preload? Is that just draining the swivels and refilling?

K
 

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
5,779
44
US
I believe that there are some threads and links on the swivel pre-load, search around a bit, you will find it. I should probably do it on mine too, but have not yet. So I do not have practical first hand experience to pass on. It is not however, just refilling. That is easy assuming you have drains.

Check this out:
http://www.sf.hiof.no/~frodehaa/swivelpinpreload.htm

Most people do not include the tire size as an increase in lift, so likely your lift is around 1.5" and wandering should not be an issue (but definitely "could be"). I ran 245/75 for years without an issue. Screwed up alignment will definitely make your rig wander though as well as worn bushings and such. IMHO if your disco has > 75k miles, history of wheeling and/or unknown history, you should change all of them. But you could start with the panhard rod and radius arms.

Brian
 
C

campbell

Guest
Does the swivel pin preload pertain to D2? My impression was that it was only for a D1.

I had the same "wandering" with my non-lifted 99D2. I corrected it by adjusting the steering box. I had quite-a-bit of play in the steering arm going into the steering box. Taking the play out fixed the "wander." Not sure if this will help, since your "wander" seemed to occur after installing the lift.
To center the wheel I did exactly what bri suggested, only I did jack up the front end. Mine was off a bit after an alignment as well.
 

Apexdisco

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
691
0
42
Castle Rock, CO
campbell said:
Does the swivel pin preload pertain to D2? My impression was that it was only for a D1.

I had the same "wandering" with my non-lifted 99D2. I corrected it by adjusting the steering box. I had quite-a-bit of play in the steering arm going into the steering box. Taking the play out fixed the "wander." Not sure if this will help, since your "wander" seemed to occur after installing the lift.
To center the wheel I did exactly what bri suggested, only I did jack up the front end. Mine was off a bit after an alignment as well.

Please provide details on adjusting play in the steering box.

Thanks!
 
C

campbell

Guest
Check
1. Raise front of vehicle.
WARNING: Do not work on or under a
vehicle supported only by a jack. Always
support the vehicle on safety stands.
2. Remove nut securing drag link to drop arm.
3. Using LRT-57-036, break taper joint and
release drag link.
4. Ensure steering is centralised.
5. With the drop arm held, check for rotational
movement at the intermediate shaft universal
joint. If any movement exists, the steering box
requires adjusting.

Adjusting
1. Loosen lock nut on steering box adjuster and
tighten adjuster until movement is removed at
universal joint.
CAUTION: Ensure that steering box is
centralised before adjustment. Never over
adjust, free play should just be eliminated.
2. When adjustment is correct, hold the adjuster
and tighten adjuster locknut.
3. Turn steering wheel from lock to lock and check
no tightness exists.
4. Fit drag link to drop arm, and tighten nut to 80
Nm (59 lbf.ft).
5. Remove stands and lower vehicle.
 
D

dsstephens

Guest
I just did a somewhat similar setup on my 00 DII and also get a "rattling" sound. what I found was that the sway bar on one side is bouncing against the interior of the wheel well, which, in the cockpit, sounds like something is loose. I'll add new steel break lines, and remove the sway bar. rattle will go away. If you've still got the sway bar on, then you might check to see if it is rubbing and making that sound. I had disconnected mine to allow for more articulation while swapping out the springs. Not sure if the new geometry or my carelessness somehow "pushed" the sway bar into the sidewall when I reconnected and tightened down the bolts. I'm guessing I screwed it up, but it's an easy fix.
 

Apexdisco

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
691
0
42
Castle Rock, CO
When I start messing with my drag link, do I need to pull it out at all? Or do I just loosen the clamp and start turning with a pair of plyers? I guess I'm still a bit confused.
 
C

campbell

Guest
I assume you are referring to what I posted...
I would... you should check to make sure that there is play before you do the adjusting. Over adjusting would be bad.
 

Apexdisco

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
691
0
42
Castle Rock, CO
15. Right hand drive vehicles - if steering wheel is to
right, drag link is too long. If steering wheel is to
left drag link is too short.
Left hand drive vehicles - if steering wheel is to
right, drag link is too short. If steering wheel is to
left drag link is too long.
16. Adjust drag link until steering wheel points
straight ahead when vehicle is travelling in a
straight line.



Second part of step 15 applies to me. (left hand drive vehicle) My steering wheel is turned slightly more to the left. So I should remove drag link and shorten each side by a two turns to start, then check. Am I on the right track?


Also, I'm not clear on the steering being centralized. Does that mean to ensure the wheels are pointing straight?
 
Last edited: