I don't ever remember a p38 heater core leaking unless it got fucked up by someone pushing really hard on a Philips head screw driver to turn the posi drive screw . Or when they tighten the screw they don't get the pipes and retaining bracket into position . The RRC's did leak all the time . Then there was the blower resister that failed a lot. That job paid really good , like they didn't know you could get it in there if you took that air vent out of the cowl.
Mk3
- Thread starter ChrismonDA
- Start date
I don't ever remember a p38 heater core leaking unless it got fucked up by someone pushing really hard on a Philips head screw driver to turn the posi drive screw . Or when they tighten the screw they don't get the pipes and retaining bracket into position . The RRC's did leak all the time . Then there was the blower resister that failed a lot. That job paid really good , like they didn't know you could get it in there if you took that air vent out of the cowl.
Pressurize it to 15 psi and let it sit over night. We have vehicles that need to sit over night numerous times. If it is a pin hole leak or a seal the leak sometimes will be small enough that they swell shut when hot then leak when cooling down.
Do you have access to a vacuum bleeder? sometimes you only get a coolant leak when the engine/cooling system is cooling down...pressure increases after engine shut down and then you get a leak. The leak may be small enought that it dries and gets crusty before it puddles. The crossover pipe (back of the heads) usually has crust around the gasket for example.
Do you have access to a vacuum bleeder? sometimes you only get a coolant leak when the engine/cooling system is cooling down...pressure increases after engine shut down and then you get a leak. The leak may be small enought that it dries and gets crusty before it puddles. The crossover pipe (back of the heads) usually has crust around the gasket for example.
If your still loosing measurable amounts of coolant and don't see any leaks ,or anything on the ground . Go to ace hardware and get a for sale sign while it still runs .
Ya You know what I'm talking about . Funny cause its true though .
Did I spell that shit right dave ?
the first drawing, part #1 leaks but it usually dries before it puddles. it will leak down and sometimes make you think it's the water flange gasket. the water flange gasket you can wait until it really really leaks.
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I guess ,maybe . but usually a valley pan will really let go in my experience . He would have coolant on the frame cross member in front of the trans . I've seen the plate on the rear of the engine be a slow persistent loss of coolant . Never hitting the ground , but we asked him to look up in there . I've seen the o rings on those tubes leak slow , radiators , water pumps . Maybe its leaking internally .
See post #27.
ive replaced several, but ONLY on 540's when I do a clutch. Luckily I can decline doing that gasket on a Land Rover! Certain jobs I just won't do on a rover anymore.
Never seen the flange gasket blow out but they do start to leak around 100k.
We have a 540 at the shop with a crusty valley pan gasket. It only leaks a tiny bit with the system pressurized over night. Customer states he doesn't see coolant in the garage so we just check it next oil service interval. I'll snap a pic if I remember.
Its just the BMW Ranges . I try to avoid them . For a while it was where we made the money . When they first started being customer pay . Now there to far gone , most of them not worth fixing.
The transmission in those Range Rovers is the easiest to pull. Every time I do a tranny in one of those trucks there is residue from that plate leaking.
Unfortunately, here people still fix them. In Richmond we could usually scare them away pretty easily.
If we had a drive on lift and high ceilings I wouldn't mind working on truck drive lines. But our ceilings are just high enough to lift a 911 up high enough to stand up straight under them. I don't pull transmissions or transfer cases on a stool anymore. I do agree the non sport MK3 is the easiest rover to work on, even on a stool.
We had a sport a couple weeks ago that needed a heater core (core was plugged near the driver side blend door) and the book time was only 3 or 5 hours....fucking book time was based on a non sport with the hoses at the core. I didn't think about the sport basically being an LR3. Luckily the customer gave approval to just cut the pipes and install some high temp silicone heater hoses versus paying the additional time to pull the heater box.
I imagine customers in your new area actually can afford the vehicles they drive, versus our area in DC suburbs and your previous location......ballers on a budget.
I fucking hate drive on lifts. Thats all Land Rover Glen Cove has. It really sucks coming from a shop where I had a minimum of three two post lifts to myself and now only have one drive on rack. fortunately our manager is working on getting some two posters for us.
The problem with the book time on that job is that it does not account for the fact that the new heater core has the heater pipes made onto it. From the factory, the pipes are removable. You can actually crimp the old pipes onto the new heater core pretty easily. I haven't done it, but I've seen that done a few times and no one has had one leak.
People up here have so much money, its ridiculous. The real housewives of Long Island...
I think its got to be . If he's really looking and still cant find it ,then the trans should come out of it to look at 10
I honestly thought about uncrimping the pipes...but didn't want to risk crimping that aluminum again. I actually did that on the old heater core just to see how hard it would be, uncrimping was easy, but trying to get needle nose pliers, angled needle nose pliers, etc on those flanges once the core was installed was tricky.
Then knowing my luck even if I did get them crimped the aluminum would be fatigued so after a couple heat cycles the thing would start leaking!
The bitch of it was the new core's pipes weren't even bent properly so even if I did pull the heater box I would have been fighting to get everything back in proper.
I remember discostew asking about back flushing these a while back. Now I know why the old Volkswagen lemon juice, water hose, wet/dry vac trick would never work. The heater core is half the size of a Volkswagen core.
I think if you get a core for an early truck you would just have to un crimp the pipe from the heater core . Then you would have the standard issue clamp set up you find on most jags .
Thank you seventyfive for the diagrams, I did the pressure test over night still held pressure. The only leak I have now is oil the size of a quarter drop after driving no oil burning smell. Looks like it's coming from around the filter housing that seems to be a common issue. Now the EAS compressor is shot but the air shocks are only two years old, convert or replace the compressor. Thank you all for your input. Reason one I will not sale is because where I live it will be sitting on ridiculous spinner rims so you get the picture. Reason two it has been a reliable truck with 110K miles.
If you would even consider converting an LM range to coils , what the hell do you care if some brown guy puts 22's and spinners on it .