More Driveshaft questions

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
146
44
Mount Shasta, CA
Along the lines of the previous post on driveshafts - I am in the process of replacing the u-joints on my front driveshaft. Seemingly pretty simple - right? NOT.
First - I couldn't get the damn thing off - the nuts were stripped in the back - and I ended up having to cut two of them off just to remove the shaft. Having done that - now I need to replace all of the bolts before replacing the shaft - BUT - you can't just pull them out (even the ones that were cut) - they are trapped between the flange and the transfer case.

Just to add some icing on the cake - I just destroyed one of my new U-joints trying to get it installed on the shaft - seemed like it was too long or something - couldn't get the retaining spring to go on and put a little too much pressure on it with the shop press. Kudos to Oreilly's - they are replacing it for me at no charge.

So assuming I am not the only one who has run into this - what is the process for replacing these bolts? I assume that the flange nut can be removed and the flange just pulls out? Do I need a puller? Do I need to drain the transfer case oil to do this? Can I just pull the flange out enough to replace the bolts and push it back in without getting into replacing the oil seal etc? Is there anything else holding the flange in place other than the large nut? Is there an easier way to get these bolts out?

Thanks!
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
852
25
48
St. Louis
You just remove the nut and washer that secures the flange to the output shaft. It should slide out without a puller. Draining oil isn’t necessary. You should be able to move it enough to swap the bolts without completely pulling it out of the seal.
 

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
146
44
Mount Shasta, CA
You just remove the nut and washer that secures the flange to the output shaft. It should slide out without a puller. Draining oil isn’t necessary. You should be able to move it enough to swap the bolts without completely pulling it out of the seal.
YES - that's what I was hoping! Thanks - will try this tomorrow.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,073
32
Raleigh, NC
While you have the flange out. Inspect the yoke. If you see a groove forming, its time to replace it. Currently doing this on mine due to a leak. Thought I could get away with just replacing the seal, but the groove is the reason its leaking.
 

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rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,373
92
Your u-joint wasn't to long. You laid a pin or two down inside the cap when you were putting it on.
The double cardan requires a certain amount of finesse when it is being reassembled. Be patient, take your time, hold your tongue just right and if it doesn't feel feel okay going together, stop and check it.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,377
201
Seattle
Consider replacing the bolts you cut with grade 8 hardware. It's one more little margin of comfort you can get while you're at it.
 

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
146
44
Mount Shasta, CA
While you have the flange out. Inspect the yoke. If you see a groove forming, its time to replace it. Currently doing this on mine due to a leak. Thought I could get away with just replacing the seal, but the groove is the reason its leaking.
If this is the flange out of the truck - why are the bolts still stuck in there? Something else has to come apart? Confusing...
 

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
146
44
Mount Shasta, CA
Your u-joint wasn't to long. You laid a pin or two down inside the cap when you were putting it on.
The double cardan requires a certain amount of finesse when it is being reassembled. Be patient, take your time, hold your tongue just right and if it doesn't feel feel okay going together, stop and check it.
That's probably what happened - thanks for the tip - new ones are coming today.