My AC condensor destroys my U joints.

listerdiesel

Well-known member
Well, a 2" lift is one thing, but your sig says 3" lift.

If you've got wide-angle joints, they should cope, but have you looked to see if the shaft is bottoming out on the sliding joint while going over severe bumps? That would transfer a lot of shock to the first joint above it, which is the one you say seems to be failing.

Most folks get very high mileage on standard shafts, even with a mild lift, and like the rest of the guys I can't see water being an issue, if it was, you'd be looking at rust damage which would be pretty obvious.

We use regular Castrol HMP grease for all the joints on both of our D2's and the Defender CSW in the family.

My 2p worth, or 2c in your country.

Peter
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
christheroverguy said:
I have a 2" OME lift and originally had an original LR shaft. After the 3rd one of those I got the Tom Woods. The first U joint went out before the lift. Eventually after i replced the stock shaft with a Tom Woods shaft the U joint went out. I thought that the driveline angle was too big so I sent it back and had them convert it t a double double cardam. The second u joint that comes off the transfer case is the one that always goes bad.

Wait.... You have a double-double cardan???.. Like this??

AA2S-F1-F1_700x120.jpg


On a 2" OME lift????? What angles did you measure???????
 
Last edited:

christheroverguy

Well-known member
Dec 28, 2007
238
0
The Hood, Chicago IL
I actually do have a 3" after you pointed that out. I do have that exact shaft, i thought the angle was too big and causing the failure. I know its an overkill but its one of the troubleshooting steps I took. I measured the distance between the dif and transfer case after the lift and gave that measurement to Tom Woods. I dont ever hear anything bottoming out when I go over bumps.
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
christheroverguy said:
I actually do have a 3" after you pointed that out. I do have that exact shaft, i thought the angle was too big and causing the failure. I know its an overkill but its one of the troubleshooting steps I took. I measured the distance between the dif and transfer case after the lift and gave that measurement to Tom Woods. I dont ever hear anything bottoming out when I go over bumps.

That drive shaft is not meant for what you're doing.... Which may be part of your issue. What is your pinion angle???

You can try routing your ac condensor like elsewhere but I have a feeling that isnt going to fix your issue.. I think there is still more to the story..
 

christheroverguy

Well-known member
Dec 28, 2007
238
0
The Hood, Chicago IL
I have considered having TWs rebuild it to be a regular prop shaft. Ill measure the angle tomorrow and post it. Im just tired of replacing u joints. It started at 40,00 miles and I now have almost 200,000 miles on t.
 

crown14

Well-known member
May 11, 2006
6,288
4
Clayton, NC
For future reference: the condenser is in the front of the truck, behind the grille, has a little electric fan mounted in front of it (two fans on a D1) and the radiator behind it. The EVAPORATOR is what you are referring to.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
christheroverguy said:
I have considered having TWs rebuild it to be a regular prop shaft. Ill measure the angle tomorrow and post it. Im just tired of replacing u joints. It started at 40,00 miles and I now have almost 200,000 miles on t.
A regular ujoint/ujoint driveshaft won't cut it. You need a ujoint/double cardan like what you had.
Maybe the output bearing on your TC is bad, IDK. But it definitely seems like there's more going on here.
 

carlosz

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
581
0
Annandale,Va
for starters, the a/c drain on discos, are located on the sides of the tunnel which means condensation by product, dripps on to the trans sides just behind the bellhousing...
water ingress to the u joints.. you claim another posibility is from the road... impossible since the momment you are traveling down the road that shaft is spinning, physics does not allow for ingress but rather egresses anything in it.. how much do you off road?, have you considered the type of of terrain where you off road.?... swampy perhaps?.. just for maintenance grease those joints as soon as you get home from an off road expedition.
lastly the type of shaft.. you should not have more than 3 degrees of angle between pinion and tcase... the shaft is overcompensated you have one too many doubles (velolicty joints).. may I suggest using something similar to a factory unit.
another suggestion is to find and visit a local driveline specialty shop of your choosing and listen to their solution...althou it may not be what you may wanna hear...