My masochism has begun

L

Longtallsally

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2016
76
1
UT
I think I was meant to have this one for a multitude of reason. Starting with getting funds transferred, I got flagged by Homeland Security because I titled it with "Discovery Purchase", which happens to be a boat out of Syria wouldn't you know. Then when I got there, it went full on Rover with everything from the CEL, to the Amigos, to the speedo not working, to even the SRS light coming on during part of the drive.

All this was of course worked into the price which was adjusted A LOT from his original asking. I still feel like I got a great truck.

To the good stuff:

IMG_0927-X3.jpg


IMG_0928-X2.jpg


IMG_0931-X2.jpg


The particulars:
- '01 SE7
- factory disc changer
- rear AC
- rear audio controls
- originally came with air bags in the rear, but it has been converted
- engine fully replaced with another '01 4.0 with the head gaskets and all ancilliaries replaced
- Voyager rack
- new rotors, and SS lines
- new wheel speed sensors
- 2 real deal Jerry cans thrown in with a generic High Liftt
- I'm assuming some no name brand LED bar on the rack

There are a lot of other details I'm forgetting, but I think I got a fair deal. I ad to drive through the worst weather I've ever driven in to get there and actually slept in the truck as the freeway was closed in places.

IMG_0920-X2.jpg


My place to sleep last night. It was basically a white out and I erred on the side of caution

IMG_0921-X2.jpg


I was rewarded by this the next morning to finish off the drive.

IMG_0925-X2.jpg
 
L

Longtallsally

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2016
76
1
UT
And now to the laundry list:

- [ ] Sunroof shades (on both front and rear, one of the "hooks" is broken off)
- [ ] Radio (inoperable)
- [ ] Armrest (drivers is detached, but there- I think it is a just a bolt)
- [ ] Glove box (doesn't really open correctly- probably a little goofed from when they did the heater core)
- [ ] Wiper is reluctant (for the front- have to turn it to fast, and then back to intermittent to get it to work)
- [ ] Rear wiper blade (just needs replaced- everything works)
- [ ] Clock light (replace)
- [ ] Odometer light (no light behind with the headlights on)
- [ ] 3 amigos (based on analysis, I think the SLABS computer needs to be replaced)
- [ ] E brake light (it's on all the time- think it's related to the above)
- [ ] Check engine light (I caught 2 codes nd forgot to document them, but will and report back)
- [ ] Air bag warnings (came on once, but may have been due to the cold)
- [ ] Fog lights attached correctly (it's got a new front bumper, and just think they were never mounted correctly)
- [ ] Vibration from 60-65 (this one I'm unsure of- it's not real bad, but definitely noticeable)
- [ ] Rear view mirror toggle to temp (how do I do this? It started goofing, and that's how I learned it may have temp)
- [ ] Rear step (droops- I think this is pretty common and easy to fix)
- [ ] Tranny will not manually go into 1st. I think something is blocking the linkage, but I can be sure. The shop felt everything work, but it wouldn't do it- feels like there is something physically in the way.

The truck has had a new front driveshaft installed as I felt a zerk fitting. It also has the CDL nipple, which is great.

Also, this was great- the truck was at a shop where I got to do a full and detailed inspection of the undercarriage. No rust, no leaks, no muss no fuss. I know the Amigos and other stuff (SLABS mainly) are a big deal, but with all the other parts that have been replaced, it makes up for the cost/annoyance of getting that sorted- I was looking at the whole picture. The motor honestly could not run any better- even after being started from the blizzard I was in.

I know there will be more, but that list really isn't horrible and it will be great to cut my teeth on while still being able to drive it.
 
1920SF

1920SF

Well-known member
Jan 6, 2007
2,705
1
NoVA
Soundsl like a solid beginning to a Rover story!

LED light bar...gotta go. Nice snag though.
r-
Ray
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
Most of the ABS issues can be fixed with a few dollars in wire and crimps unless you have a bad hub. You just need to see what the fault codes are.
 
L

Longtallsally

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2016
76
1
UT
It went from no codes and perfect to right rear wheel speed sensor being bad, to eventually throwing a code for all 3. This was with a Snap On reader they had at the shop. All brake rotors, pads, and lines have been replaced. I'm putting my money on the SLABS computer at this point as the system has been fully bled and the pedal feels good.

I just pulled the codes that OBD Fusion could find:
P1117- Coolant Temp sensor. Man this one is hard to fathom as I watched the temp gauge and what I got on the ipad with OBD Fusion for the whole 500 miles like a hawk and it regulated perfectly and was rock solid in the numbers. So I don't get that one.
P1590- ABS ECU failure. The PO gave me a spare, so I should be able to get that one pretty easy.

I had a little over 500 mile drive home and it did really well- aside from the obvious economy (11.7 on my first tank) and that even going up a driveway sized hill, it downshifts dropping instant economy to 8 mpg. The wind noise with the rack was pretty ridiculous, but I was out on the 80 interstate in a snow storm, so I shouldn't expect much.
 
L

Longtallsally

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2016
76
1
UT
So I'm wondering... we are in the SLC area. You guys think it would be worth it to take it to Great Basin Rovers to let them hook up and get the full Rover based analysis (probably an hour of labor or so) and see what's the what on the 3 Amigos and just in general? Kind of a Post PPI?

I wouldn't mind doing the work myself, but in my research, it seems all roads point to having the Rover specific diagnostic tools to at least know what's up. I'm not getting impatient, just trying to keep the ball rolling.
 
A

AbnMike

Well-known member
Apr 6, 2016
1,218
117
Western Slope, CO
Longtallsally said:
So I'm wondering... we are in the SLC area. You guys think it would be worth it to take it to Great Basin Rovers to let them hook up and get the full Rover based analysis (probably an hour of labor or so) and see what's the what on the 3 Amigos and just in general? Kind of a Post PPI?

I wouldn't mind doing the work myself, but in my research, it seems all roads point to having the Rover specific diagnostic tools to at least know what's up. I'm not getting impatient, just trying to keep the ball rolling.
Click to expand...


If it were me and I could stop and have it done, I'd stop and have it done. At least then you have up to date and accurate diagnostics right from the people who see these trucks every single day (rather than people like me who see something then have to come to a forum and wait for a response).
 
L

Longtallsally

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2016
76
1
UT
Thanks once again guys. Based on the "issues", I already have a slush fund for the Disco, so even a couple hundred to have it done by experts and enthusiasts is worth it and will give me the base line.

That SVS thread ROCKS!!!! In my research last night, I totally forgot about that. I have some great direction now, thanks.

The leather on the steering wheel is done. Should I find a whole new wheel or get a kit? I've re stitched them before, and gotten decent result, or should I find a used wheel?
 
best4x4

best4x4

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2015
595
72
Beaumont, TX
P1117 sounds like a D2 with Secondary Air Injection (SAI). It's not the temp sensor on the intake manifold. It's mounted down by the lower radiator hose to the radiator. I've seen some people replace the radiator on an SAI RR/D2 with a non SAI compatible radiator and they just disconnect the sensor and leave the wire dangling = P1117 fault. You can get a new sensor for like 20-25.00. The P1590 is a rough road fault with the ABS and it's kinda generic. The main codes will be stored in the SLABS ECU and can be viewed with a Hawkeye, or decent code scanner like that Snap-On that shop used.

The rear step = either replace the little worn out strut on it or simply remove it entirely
Rearview mirror = might be compatible on other cars to show F/C temps, but it is displayed on the HVAC instead
Red Brake Light = faulty brake level sensor cap or low brake fluid (seals from the master cylinder to reservoir are famous for leaking and can be fixed for around 55-70.00)
Front Wiper = could be as simple as a loose 13mm nut on the wiper arm

Congrats on your D2 purchase though. I've done two purchases basically sight unseen that I showed up with some basic tools, a good battery, and my test drive was either 1.5hr or 4.5hr home. Both were adventures and both were great D2's that someone just decided to abandon as they no longer had a new car smell.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
Just an FYI, squeaking brakes can cause the three amigos. A Snap On scanner is fine for diagnosing faults on these, I use mine instead of T4 all the time at work.
 
L

Longtallsally

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2016
76
1
UT
best4x4 said:
P1117 sounds like a D2 with Secondary Air Injection (SAI). It's not the temp sensor on the intake manifold. It's mounted down by the lower radiator hose to the radiator. I've seen some people replace the radiator on an SAI RR/D2 with a non SAI compatible radiator and they just disconnect the sensor and leave the wire dangling = P1117 fault. You can get a new sensor for like 20-25.00. The P1590 is a rough road fault with the ABS and it's kinda generic. The main codes will be stored in the SLABS ECU and can be viewed with a Hawkeye, or decent code scanner like that Snap-On that shop used.

The rear step = either replace the little worn out strut on it or simply remove it entirely
Rearview mirror = might be compatible on other cars to show F/C temps, but it is displayed on the HVAC instead
Red Brake Light = faulty brake level sensor cap or low brake fluid (seals from the master cylinder to reservoir are famous for leaking and can be fixed for around 55-70.00)
Front Wiper = could be as simple as a loose 13mm nut on the wiper arm

Congrats on your D2 purchase though. I've done two purchases basically sight unseen that I showed up with some basic tools, a good battery, and my test drive was either 1.5hr or 4.5hr home. Both were adventures and both were great D2's that someone just decided to abandon as they no longer had a new car smell.
Click to expand...

I talked to Great Basin Rovers today and he said that the P1117 could be that the original sensor was used and that he has seen them fry from the overheat. I bet this is it. Either way, just as you mentioned, a pretty easy fix. The 1590 I bet is related to a couple things:
1- the Airbag rear suspension was never removed by reprogramming the computer
2- 3 amigos being on

Rear step- I just looked at it today- the upper eye on on the strut is broken. I could probably redneck a fix, but I'll just order a new one, no biggie.

Rearview mirror- Yeah I learned what the "EXT" button on the HVAC was for today. Got it. And I read a thread that the mirror was used in other vehicles, so probably stuff is there, but just not in use. Interesting nonetheless.

Brake light- Sorry, I should have clarified, this is the E brake light. I think it's either the switch is misadjusted or something like that. Just a little more investigation is needed on my part.

Front Wiper- This is definitely the switch as the arms and motor work perfect. When I get to recovering the wheel, I'll probably pull the switch and do some dielectric grease in there and see what happens.

All in all, the fixes are all pretty simple and will just take some fettling.

jymmiejamz said:
Just an FYI, squeaking brakes can cause the three amigos. A Snap On scanner is fine for diagnosing faults on these, I use mine instead of T4 all the time at work.
Click to expand...

GBR will charge about $150 to do a full monty PPI basically and I'm OK with that. This dude is a total nut and won't work on anything newer than '04 and has to turn away business, so I'm pretty sure he'll be able to determine what is up. He mentioned doing basically Option B from the thread listed above and I think he does it reasonably and it will keep the ABS and TC systems functioning completely and might be the best option.

I keep compiling little things to fix. Tonight it was that I realized that not all the lines in the rear defroster are functioning. Not huge, but I'd like to sort it out. Probably can't be fixed, but at least analyze. The fuel door seems like a pretty simple fix too with just a clip that needs to be replaced.

Also, the drivers door card is looking a little ragged, so I think I might replace it. The interior needs a SERIOUS detailing- like the spend a few hours and go nuts disinfecting, scrubbing out stains in the carpet, and polishing all the plastic. I did a quick wash off tonight of the road grime from the drive home and a really lame quick vacuum, but will get nuts with my shop vac when I have some time without the kids. There were papers in the truck from 2012 in the seat pockets. I'm amazed that someone has that little respect for their car, but I guess that's me.

I realized that a couple of the pointer things for a couple vents are missing or broken off, but again easy peasy from a parts machine someone has.

This thing is very quickly delving me back into my life like I had with the E30- you know where to find parts and there are the very typical things to sort out. I'm having a blast and nothing seems too far over my head. I've got a growing list of little things to order to help finishing things off like the clock and ODO bulbs, E brake cover, step strut, fuel door clip, etc. None of it is expensive or difficult, which is great.

I really don't know why I didn't get one sooner, but at least I'm here now.
 
kcabpilot

kcabpilot

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2006
334
1
California
There is something about those wiper switches. I had one go bad, wouldn't do anything for about 30 to 45 seconds when you turned it on then worked okay. Seemed to only do it when it was cold out. I tried cleaning it but no luck, had to replace it.

I think 90% of the 3 Amigos faults are caused by a broken trace in the embedded circuit card which is epoxied into the ABS module. The "option B" fix bypasses that and retains full functionality. It worked for me.

Selector not going into 1st - if you crawl under driver's side it's a cable and has an adjustment where it connects to the shift arm on the transmission.
 
N

number9

Well-known member
Nov 21, 2015
196
0
Coastal Georgia
Just remember since you admit to being a masochist......
LAND ROVERS can cause serious side effects. Rarely reported side effects include:
  • an erection that will not go away (priapism). If you have an erection that lasts more than 4 hours, get medical help right away.
    If it is not treated right away, priapism can permanently damage your penis
Click to expand...
......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom