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Ralph
Guest
oh and by the way its performance is a bit hindered. The mechanics are great but it seems a bit too slacky uphill any suggestions to add a bit of a kick to the old four banger???
Ralph said:
Too bad you want to keep the 4 banger. Other wise I would say put a real motor in it.
Since the truck is stock I wouldn't do anything to it because it might start breaking things further down the line.
Well, that sail up on top might slow ya' down a mite.... 
Many would argue that the very late IIa's were LR's the high water mark for vehicles.
Now the 2.25 motor isn't the peppiest on the block, but LR was building products for countries where freeways didn't exist...maybe not even tarmac....too bad old Auntie Rover never got a clue that there was a different, American market. But it's a solid, durable powerplant, nontheless. And the vehicle is worth considerably more now that its original sales price over three and a half decades ago. My '72 is worth a heckuva lot more than the '96 Disco, and now that the 'spider' and electrickery is acting up, the '72 is the daily driver again.
The best thing you can do, if it hasn't been done already is to install electronic ignition. No it won't make it go faster...but it might help it run longer....
Looks like a great acquisition. No go out and change the oil...all of the dozen places....
Cheers
Many would argue that the very late IIa's were LR's the high water mark for vehicles.
Now the 2.25 motor isn't the peppiest on the block, but LR was building products for countries where freeways didn't exist...maybe not even tarmac....too bad old Auntie Rover never got a clue that there was a different, American market. But it's a solid, durable powerplant, nontheless. And the vehicle is worth considerably more now that its original sales price over three and a half decades ago. My '72 is worth a heckuva lot more than the '96 Disco, and now that the 'spider' and electrickery is acting up, the '72 is the daily driver again.
The best thing you can do, if it hasn't been done already is to install electronic ignition. No it won't make it go faster...but it might help it run longer....
Looks like a great acquisition. No go out and change the oil...all of the dozen places....
Cheers
Nice truck. Easiest mod I did was switch to a DiscoTech Electronic Distributor. Took about 10 min to install and time. You can find them in ebay...used to be at auction for <$100 but recently are buy it now for $150.
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AlohaRover
Guest
Are you in the UAE? Shouldn't be a problem with hills.
ACR Head, cam, intake, exhaust.
Electronic ignition.
Hotter coil
Rover drive.
loose the roof rack.
Should have no problem pulling 65-70mph
ACR Head, cam, intake, exhaust.
Electronic ignition.
Hotter coil
Rover drive.
loose the roof rack.
Should have no problem pulling 65-70mph
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Ralph
Guest
Thanks for all the help.
So lose the roof rack, get an electric egnition, and check all electrics as well as timing. How about a new air filter and proper sensors, wouldn't that help?
Btw I'm located in Lebanon not UAE, and its all uphill here. Mountains, vallies, rivers, and all sorts of forests. Not one grain of desert sand.
So lose the roof rack, get an electric egnition, and check all electrics as well as timing. How about a new air filter and proper sensors, wouldn't that help?
Btw I'm located in Lebanon not UAE, and its all uphill here. Mountains, vallies, rivers, and all sorts of forests. Not one grain of desert sand.
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byronAU
Guest
AlohaRover said:
NO WAY man!!!!..... I've got a 2a 109 [ex-military] that's got a (local Australian) GM 186 cid L6 with HEI it tops out at 60mph @ 4000 rpm (Max revs!)
But......I'm gonna drop in a (same) GM 202 cid L6 with HEI and factory Bosch L Jetronic EFI.........then, allowing for the extra weight etc, I'm certain I'll hit nearly 70!!!!!
:rofl::rofl:
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byronAU
Guest
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byronAU
Guest
Seriously though, you are! on the right track.......get a service manual for it..... swap in an electronic ignition [the standard points are the truck's Achille's Heel] new plugs and HT leads and change ALL oils and greases....in engine, gearbox, transfer case, F+R Diffs, front spheres [thats the CV's and wheel bearings], grease everything in sight!Ralph said:
BTW, you can get a complete drop-in replacement distributor for them now for not much more than the various conversions and kits - lots out there, some v. good, good, no good and utter rubbish choose wisely- the complete new electronic dizzy is best as it replaces your mechanical and vacuum advance, shaft, bearings, weights, the lot.
If for some crazy reason you want to drive at night then put in an ARB Headlamp Upgrade Wiring Kit with Relays [sooner or later, if not already the wiring and switches will have failed!]and fit their H4 Halogen Headlamps, use either the standard 60/55Watt globes or if you upgrade your generator to an alternator of, say, 80 Amps min., fit 130/90 Watt .......miles better.....also 100Watt Pencil Beam spots work well with those. Buy and fit in at least a N70 size battery in any case - they [Series] definitely need them!
Tyres?.....you cant go past Michelins, in my opinion - on all of my LR's, only my 2a doesn't have them, it's got Goodyear Wranglers [not v. good on wet roads!] correct size is 7.50 x 16 TUBED type only, unless you swap for steel Disco 1 steel rims [tubeless then]
Try and get the UK magazine "Land Rover Owner International" not only is it a goldmine of information and tech tips etc......there's heaps of ads for all the different products you'll wanna get!.....good to compare and price stuff - you'll be blown away by what's available.
That will do for now.....PM me any time you wanna know more!
Cheers - a fellow 2a'er
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congratulations and welcome to the rover world.
the previous post are well thought and should be considered.
i would like to add some advise as well. i would recommend adjusting the valves as well. this is crucial for performance, easly done..
get the work shop manual (ome). best there is ..:applause:
www.singingcamel.com
the previous post are well thought and should be considered.
i would like to add some advise as well. i would recommend adjusting the valves as well. this is crucial for performance, easly done..
get the work shop manual (ome). best there is ..:applause:
www.singingcamel.com
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Ralph
Guest
Guys, thanks for all the tips I really appreciate it. I'm giving the engine as well as the electrics a complete overhaul. I do a lot of hunting and camping and that roofrack could really come in handy. Isn't there any engine mods, even if aftermarket that would make up for the roof rack, performance wise. I will get the engine to function in perfect condition, but how could I squeeze a bit more power?
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byronAU
Guest
Ralph said:
Actually they're not a bad engine - in fact they're very good!.......just not very powerful, hence they are slooooow........you'll never actually be stopped by this lack of power, you will eventually get there......it'll take you a long time, but you'll get there!
You can get it to work at it's best by adjusting everything to its optimum settings and keeping them there!........Electronic ignition gives a bit more power than points - but it's main advantage is that it always continues to run at peak performance, performance with points starts to fall off in tiny gradual increments from the moment you set the gap and timing!
Good and important point about adjusting the valves too - unfortunately you can't get a hydraulic conversion kit for them!......but you may want to perhaps swap out the engine sometime in the future.......see how you feel about it over time.
If the truth be known, at the speeds you travel at in a Series, wind resistance is not a big factor......but weight is, so only keep stuff on the roof when you need to........
BTW - I notice you've got a "Tropical Roof" like mine has.......they REALLY do work! it's like driving around under an umbrella!
1.twin choke webber carb, bore 60 thou over, over size pistons to match, and a deisel cam shaft. or 2, buy a schottys adapter plate and drop in a chey 250 inline six. high ratio difs or high ratio transferbox. ... overdrive...... or 3, advance adapter conversion to mate a 4 speed muncie to rover transfer box, chevy i six and an overdrive.... start thinking about upgrading the rear dif ... cause these rover chunks blow axles shafts like mad.
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byronAU
Guest
LRNationals said:
Option 2 is very popular here in Oz, but using the local GM I6 based on the GM Chev 250....over here it gets up to 202 cid in size but can be found with a factory Bosch L Jetronic EFI and GM HEI ignition......but a higher speed High gear in the Transfer Case is a very good way to go with this OR a Fairey Overdrive.......but it , and rest of original G/box, T/case, diffs, drive shafts, axles etc were never meant to handle this sort of power and torque - esp. when big wheels and tyres are fitted so it's common to start breaking things!
My 2,5 litre petrol powered LR Santana tops at 75mph on the flat, in 5th gear and at 3.250 rpm.
fit a 2,5 diesel or 200tdi crankshaft, 2,5 n/a conrods and you have the 2,5 litre motor. Add the weber twin choke carb, skim a little your cyl head, check compressions and timing and you'll feel you drive a new motor!
fit a 2,5 diesel or 200tdi crankshaft, 2,5 n/a conrods and you have the 2,5 litre motor. Add the weber twin choke carb, skim a little your cyl head, check compressions and timing and you'll feel you drive a new motor!
byronAU said:
Dunno about that statement. One time, I was driving across western Nevada desert, straight into gale-force winds. Kamikaze tumbleweeds comin' right at me. Foot to the floor and I was doing 35 mph.... Same trip, eastern slope of the divide in Colorado. Nice long straightaway, engine off, tranny in neutral...77 mph was "terminal velocity"....
No, these vehicles are aerodynamic as bricks....
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AlohaRover
Guest
Ralph said:
Ahhh yeah way different terrain.
Sorry for the confusion, was trying to ID the registration plate.
Regarding my first post, the Roverdrive is an overdrive unit and yes a well built engine, 4.77 gears, and an overdrive can drive 65-70mph.