Need help before I throw a lighted match in the tank.

[Paul K]

All:

1995 D1. Overheated & pushed air into the expansion tank. Took the heads off, had them both machined (both were out of true, one had a 'hump' in the middle) and replaced the head gaskets even though they looked fine. Put everything back together and it won't start. Almost fires, but not quite. Plus it's got two coolant leaks- one from the 'new' radiator, the other from somewhere at the back of the engine- it's running (literally) down the bell housing & pouring all over the garage floor.

Any ideas? Where's the cheapest place to buy a radiator that won't leak? Can the stock units be rebuilt?

Thanks

Paul.

 

[Tugela]

A couple thoughts here:

1. Radiator: if yours is factory original, best to replace unless you enjoy doing the head gasket job. You can buy aluminum aftermarket radiators with plastic tanks for about $230 online. I ran one of these for about 5,000 miles before I sold my last truck. With a 180-deg thermostat it kept coolant temps comfortably low, even when wheeling in summer heat, climbing mountain passes, and toiling in stop & go city traffic. Genuine replacements are nice, but considerably more expensive. A radiator shop can rebuild your original, probably better than it was originally, but the price I got on this from my local shop was about $400. YMMV.

2. Rear coolant leak: you might be losing coolant from the rear of the valley gasket. I had this problem with the front after my head gasket replacement. The clamp piece that bolts down on each end of the valley gasket needs a generous heaping of RTV sealant on the ends or coolant can leak out through the corners. Did you install a new valley gasket?

 

[Paul K]

I did replace the valley gasket, I'm starting to think one of those cameras on a wire dibbles might help. I will look into radiator repair next week. Thanks!

A couple thoughts here:

1. Radiator: if yours is factory original, best to replace unless you enjoy doing the head gasket job. You can buy aluminum aftermarket radiators with plastic tanks for about $230 online. I ran one of these for about 5,000 miles before I sold my last truck. With a 180-deg thermostat it kept coolant temps comfortably low, even when wheeling in summer heat, climbing mountain passes, and toiling in stop & go city traffic. Genuine replacements are nice, but considerably more expensive. A radiator shop can rebuild your original, probably better than it was originally, but the price I got on this from my local shop was about $400. YMMV.

2. Rear coolant leak: you might be losing coolant from the rear of the valley gasket. I had this problem with the front after my head gasket replacement. The clamp piece that bolts down on each end of the valley gasket needs a generous heaping of RTV sealant on the ends or coolant can leak out through the corners. Did you install a new valley gasket?

 

[SMLE]

I had coolant running down the back of my engine, onto the transmission, off the bell housing and onto the floor...

Turned out to be the heater pipe going into the head near the front of the engine. I had smashed the o-ring when sliding it back in.

Replaced the o-ring and the leak stopped.