Need your D2 Motor Mount tips and tricks; I used D2 diesel mounts, more to follow.

[11b4v]

ETA: I used diesel D2 mounts for his project, (2000 D2, 237K miles) and the D2 TDi mounts I received Were Not a perfect fit. I had to slightly modify the mounts to fit. Pictures, the process, part numbers to follow. In response to Juke179R, I'm going to look further into parts numbers; there might be a difference between 300tdi and TD5 mounts for the D2.

Original Post started here: I'm in the middle of HGs on my 00 D2 after noticing a passenger side coolant leak. When I crawled under the truck to remove the exhaust manifolds from the Y pipe, I noticed all both motor, and transfer case mounts are shot; the motor is both kinked/turned and about an inch forward. My son rear ended a pick up last summer and I suspect the jolt from the bump, or my off roading since, has caused the problem.

I replaced the drivers side a number years ago; the remaining mounts are 23 years old.

I've got the passenger side nut off, but I seem to recall that the trick to break torque on the drivers side was to get a wrench in there and use a bottle jack (at least that's my current plan) to break torque.

Need your Tips and Tricks for the drivers side, and the transfer case mounts.

I've got a transmission lift, two 3 ton floor jacks, and a couple of bottle jacks. Ive also got an engine lift, but would have to roll the truck out of the garage to use it.

thanks in advance, mv

 

[11b4v]

I’m going to be the first reply to my own post. Soaked the nut, and used a ratcheting flex head 18mm to free the drivers side nut from the top.

I'm planning on lifting, and moving it back in place, carefully.

Lets hear about the transfer case mounts!

 

[JUKE179r]

I don’t know about transfer case mounts, but for my Thor V8 engine mounts I bought and installed the diesel 300Tdi mounts. They are the same mount specs but the 300Tdi mounts are beefier and have a denser rubber base than the V8 mounts.

300Tdi vs V8 mount:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landroverforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-4cf74b89_c3c8_4fe7_a896_fa935c2a66a6_6f20c111ccf429e09156b1acb97c33a6b379c27c.jpeg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landroverforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-5eb1a5f2_3f08_402a_9fd2_253c7ce0cb59_b7e02f310d6870ebb09b2af1b4054626a24ac864.jpeg

 

[StangGT5]

Interesting note about the diesel mounts. I just use Genuine LR V8 mounts, but may consider those if I have to replace any more (hopefully not). I wonder if there's an appreciable NVH difference.

I bought a short ratcheting 18MM wrench just for this job. It makes the nuts inside the bracket much easier, though you still have to brake them loose with a standard wrench. They usually take a lot of elbow grease to break loose, but are fine from there.

If you're doing them on the ground, use an engine hoist on the front hook. The transfer case mounts usually keep it pretty level when lifting, but a leveler/chain to the passenger side can help. There just aren't many good points over there on the front of the engine. You can place a jack with a wood block gently resting under the oil pan so you have some safety measure removing and reinstalling the mounts. The oil pan on bosch trucks isn't very strong, but it's more than nothing when your hands are in there swapping parts. No one wants a hamburger for a hand.

Be careful how far you jack the motor up with the hoist, especially if you have SAI. On bosch trucks I have not had to remove the brackets. On D1s and RRCs I always have always had to remove a bracket.

 

[JUKE179r]

When I changed my engine mounts I used a 4”x4” block of wood under the oil pan. I was very reluctant about doing this but several trusted forum members said this was the best, safest and easiest way.
Good mention @StangGT5 about the SAI piping at the back of the engine. I almost crushed mine not realizing how close I was to the firewall when jacking it up from the oil pan.

 

[11b4v]

Ya'll keep watching this thread as I also used the D2 diesel mounts; albeit with some modifications to the mounts. Pics and narrative to follow.

 

[michaels]

i too installed 300TDI mounts on my DII when the heads were off for an easier install. 12K miles later so far so good.

 

[ukoffroad]

I ended up going with the new Safarigard mounts, I hate doing those and was not confident the diesel ones would be much better. I used wood on the oil pan to lift it as well.

 

[11b4v]

One of those is the drivers side mount that I replace 9-10 years ago. The drivers side transfer case mount was still intact, but on its way out.

 

[11b4v]

Here's the problem I ran into. thought I had a pic, but my drawing will have to do. Could be my fault ordering the wrong mount. I used D1 300 TDI mounts. There was a gap between the mounts bottom resting surface given the frame mount lip. I removed about an 1/8" plus to of materiel from the mount using a hand grinder.

Here's a pic of the diesel mount with about 1/8'' of its aluminum base removed. The grinder disc was pretty loaded up from the first mount, used a second disc to make quick work of the second mount.

 

[11b4v]

This pic show how far forward the motor was. The motor was essentially 'resting' on broken mounts. Good thing I drive like the old man I am.

 

[11b4v]

I picked up a used 'Porta Power'/hydraulic ram, whatever you call it, off FB market place last year for another project. I used it to push back the motor. Made it effortless. Most rental companies have these available. You could use a bottle jack and 2x4 to do the same. I left the drive shafts in place.

 

[11b4v]

Pic of the drivers side with the new, modified D1 mount installed. I have since tightened that bolt.

 

[11b4v]

Yes, my bench is trashed at the moment. The only trick I used was to cut off a 1/4" from the bottom bolt of the passenger side transfer case mount. Even with the transfer case jacked up as far as possible, and the mount base removed/loosened from the transfer case, It barely fit while flipping/sliding/juggling in there sideways. I removed the mount and base on the drivers side, pretty easy. For safety, after jacking up the transfer case, I put a 2x4 between the transfer case, and the cross member.

 

[JUKE179r]

Pic of the drivers side with the new, modified D1 mount installed. I have since tightened that bolt.
View attachment 63876

That is strange you had to cut back the mounts to get them to fit. Both of mine dropped straight in. Maybe the Brit versions over here are tighter spec’d for the 300Tdi? I don’t know.
Here is another picture I took years ago from another angle of the mount differences:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landroverforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-5eb1a5f2_3f08_402a_9fd2_253c7ce0cb59_b7e02f310d6870ebb09b2af1b4054626a24ac864.jpeg

 

[11b4v]

NTC9416 is what I ordered from AB.

Regardless, I got it to work, and am happy for now.