New noises

cyoc62 · Nov 23, 2012

Out of no where I've started hearing metal on metal "clunks" when driving. The noise is coming from the front end somewhere. Originally I thought is was suspension parts but even when the wheels are off the ground, everthing is tight and no rattles are apparent.

All of the rubber boots are intact except those on the ball joints. But again, everything is tight. I was wondering what elese might be causing the "clunks" and how hard is it to replace the ball joints?

Thanks

03 DII

jymmiejamz · Nov 23, 2012

Did it start after doing any other work to the vehicle? I would guess sway bar bushings or end links, or watts linkage. I haven't seen very many ball joints fail, but that's not to say that it isn't possible.

singingcamel · Nov 23, 2012

C V joints ? Take it out and turn tight circles to the left and right,is it more noticable ?

Roustabout · Nov 23, 2012

Get under your rig and have someone with a bit of muscle rock it back and forth. You should be able to pinpoint the culprit - I'd guess watts linkage or sway bar links.
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cyoc62 · Nov 23, 2012

The only thing I've done is brake pads on the rear. I'll have someone shake it. Thanks.

kferg · Nov 23, 2012

Have you looked at the pinion bearing? I just developed that in my '95, put it on jack stands and turned the front shaft to confirm the noise is from the pinion. It was leaking a bit a grease so not surprising.

cyoc62 · Nov 26, 2012

Looks like it's the ball joints; both sides. How difficult of a fix is this for a shadetree mechanic?

jymmiejamz · Nov 26, 2012

cyoc62 said:
Looks like it's the ball joints; both sides. How difficult of a fix is this for a shadetree mechanic?

Probably a pain in the ass/impossible without a ball joint press. Is it the upper and lower joints on both sides?

honda50r · Nov 26, 2012

cyoc62 said:
The only thing I've done is brake pads on the rear. I'll have someone shake it. Thanks.

Congratulations Sir, you just made my signature. hahaha

cyoc62 · Nov 26, 2012

jymmiejamz said:
Probably a pain in the ass/impossible without a ball joint press. Is it the upper and lower joints on both sides?

Yes, upper and lower, both sides. Maybe that's why the repair quote was $750!

cyoc62 · Nov 26, 2012

honda50r said:
Congratulations Sir, you just made my signature. hahaha

Glad I could be of service

jymmiejamz · Nov 27, 2012

If you are going to pay someone to replace them I would recommend that you have the same person diagnose the noise in case the ball joints don't fix your noise.

cyoc62 · Dec 1, 2012

I'm taking the mecahnic's word that the ball joints need replacing. So, with new ones in hand and everything apart, I still can't remove the steering knuckle.:banghead:

My question/s: On the bottom of the knuckle, where the ball joint post pokes through, there is a nut. What is it? Do I need to remove it or leave it alone? Can't it be removed? Or, do I hit the knuckle harder? I could have this done today...

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

messar · Dec 1, 2012

Ball joints are something I need to do, but looks like a really unpleasant job. Here is a web site showing how to do it:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-...knuckle-balljoints-removal-refitting-how.html

A better view of the tool that you need (about half way down the page):

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Other_tools.html

KyleT · Dec 1, 2012

they are a huge pain and I have only ever seen one D2 need them.

I would get a second opinion, it is HIGHLY unlikely that one, or all 4 failed at the same time.

If they are in fact bad, I would get a used axle and swap it, it is way easier, especially if you live in the rust belt.

JohnB · Dec 1, 2012

I would think Super Girl would help you get then off

cyoc62 · Dec 2, 2012

Thanks Messar, the first link was what I needed. The price for these ball joint tools is ridiculous! I'll give the Harbor Freight tool a shot first. ($70)

Mr. T., I completely agree. However, the boots on my lower joints are shot. So while I'm in there...

Thanks for the help.

cyoc62 · Dec 2, 2012

JohnB said:
I would think Super Girl would help you get then off

Super Girl is only good for a couple things.

KyleT · Dec 2, 2012

my kingpin balljoint boots were torn for like 80k miles before I pulled the axle for the swap. No play from what I could tell.

x2 on checking the panhard rod bushings, those actually do wear out pretty quick.

cyoc62 · Dec 3, 2012

So here is what I found so far with the tare down: lower ball joints are toast, uppers are in good working order; however, I'm replacing them too. The other ball joints, pan-hard, tie rod, track rod, will get replaced; one piece at a time. The track rod is an assembly and the whole thing gets replaced, about $170, what a waste.

A 10 lb. sledge and about 15 minutes of pounding will remove the knuckle

.

The Harbor Freight press kit doesn't work for me. With an 18/20 inch breaker bar and another 12" of cheater pipe, all I could do was bend the C-clamp. The ball joints wouldn't budge. The screw on this thing is unreasonbly long and it interferes with EVERYTHING! I don't know how others have used this kit. I'm going to try a tool from Sears. If that doesn't work, well...

Sorry there aren't any pics, this site won't let me post them. I'll try using a different format in the coming days.

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