Oil cooler check valves?

[no694terry]

Oil cooler not staying primed

so i put my new aftermarket oil cooler in and it works great to keep oil pressure up and really cools the oil back down but now my problem is that it must drain back out when it sits and it has a long delay of no engine pressure as it fills back up on cold starts, how do i keep cooler primed when engine not running and does the factory cooler run back down into pan, how does it stay primed?

 

[CandiMan]

Without actually putting a one way check valve in the oil line after the pump, the anti-drain back valve in the oil filter plays a vital roll in keeping the system lube when the engine is off. But I am curious, why did you put a aftermarket oil cooler? When you say it has a long delay of building pressure on cold starts, how long is the delay?

Even though the oil may have drained back into the pan, all the internal components still have a film of oil on them. That film is more than enough to lubricate those components until pressure builds.

 

[osiristheclown]

The most wear an engine see's is from cold starts. This is one of the reasons for using the very light weight oils, to get it through the system as quickly as possible on initial start up. The other is of course reduced friction for economy. The delay in getting the oil through the system is what causes most wear. You have to remember the whole concept is that the oil (under pressure) separates the bearing from the journal.

 

[91 PBP 5079]

My oil presure takes about 3 or 4 seconds to to come up after it has sat overnight. That is with the stock oil cooler. It takes longer if i use 15w40 Rotella. I use 5w40 synthetic Rotella in it now. But it still takes longer than most engines. I have checked the oil pick screen and the filter has antidrain back valve. I have seen engines run a long time without oil presure with no aparent damage

 

[no694terry]

mines taking about 10 seconds to build pressure and the other morning when it was bvelow freezing again it took about the same but then i lost oil pressure again above 2k when i started driving like it was taking it faster than it could pump. i let it idle longer to warm up and then i was all good again. but i'm about to take this cooler back off. i rather have low pressure at idle sometimes when hot, thewn have no start up pressure and who's knows how low at higher rpm's when cold.

 

[LuisC]

http://www.accusump.com/

 

[no694terry]

i been reading that tube and fin coolers are restrictive, so i'm going to get a B&M plate type cooler thats a bit smaller to replace it with. it should have better flow all the way around and maybe if i mount it with the fitting side up then it wont completely drain back out when not running so i don't have such a long delay for pressure

 

[osiristheclown]

The plate type cooler is similar to a cross flow radiator. You could have half the "plates" plugged and still have flow. Mounting it fittings up will allow crap to settle in the bottom and plug the lower plates eventually. The tube and fin type prevents this situation with only one fluid path. The reason you are losing prime or there is a delay in pressure is most likely due to a problem with clearances in the front cover assembly.

The Buick 4.1 V6 used this same type of pump and was notorious for losing prime during routine oil changes and wiping out the front cover assembly upon starting the engine. A complete assembly would correct the issue unless the engine was run until the bearings were wiped.

Personally, I would just pour in 20W50 and drive it until it dies.

 

[no694terry]

ok, fittings down it is. i'm just to thick headed to shell out as much money for a front cover as i could for a hole engine. i will spend thousands trying to keep this engine alive before i spend 500 bucks on a timing cover. and i tried 20w50, made no difference. the only thing helping my oil pressure is Lucas

 

[no694terry]

the new b&m cooler is working great, the engine ran smoother right away, the oil light is now the first light to go out rather than 10 secs or more after start up, its about 2 seconds now hot or cold. put a lot of miles on it today in this heat and never saw the light, even at a 500 rpm idle. idles real low at first if warm? on to my next issue, O2 sensors.

 

[osiristheclown]

Your truck idles at 500rpm's? In gear or neutral?

 

[no694terry]

if i run into a store and start it again when its warm it will idle at 500 in park until i start driving again.think i may have a weak fuel pump. i have a flowmaster super 44 muffler so it sounds pretty cool idling at 500, kinda like a big block. normal idle for me is 750

 

[adriatic04]

500 is low

 

[no694terry]

yes i know this, thats why i think i may have a weak fuel pump. but it returns to a normal 750 after i start to drive. or dirty crank sensor maybe.

 

[nosivad_bor]

I am really confused terry. The oil cooler is integrated into the radiator. If you replaced that long tube in front of the radiator, that is the transmission oil cooler.

or did you simply reroute the pipes to another stand alone oil cooler for motor oil and plug up the radiator with fittings?

 

[hafaday]

if i'm correct, the d2's have oil coolers up to 03. it' s located under the trans cooler and looks the same

edit: theres 2 in front of the rad.

 

[no694terry]

Stand alone. I cut lines to radiator cooler months ago as a first attempt to find cause of low pressure