ome 3" on dI

[bri]

Sheesh. A spring compression tool might be a good idea to have on hand.. in case. But why? A spring compression tool would be needed if the spring is taller than the space needed to fit the new spring into correct? So if there is any possibility that this is the case have one on had, just in case. Rent one for free at autozone, since you will need it very rarely and I would argue you won't even need it at all.

If done properly you will NOT need it.

See the pictures at:
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/retainers/install.htm
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2frontcoils/
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2frontcoils/DCP_1098.jpg

Granted, the pictures above are not a D1, but it will do the same thing. Without sway bars and shocks the spring will just come unseated from the top. In the rear mine does this even with the shocks every time a tire hits a big hole so I have cones.

NOTE: DO NOT use the high lift for this as shown above, place the vehicle on jack stands mounted to the frame. Almost as high as you can. Then lower the axel with another jack (preferrably floor jack), then you will have your bottle jack just in case you need to press your front axel down to get more clearance for the spring. Do the rear and then the front. The rear are easier.

Obviously the rear needs no compression at all. The spring will fall out. Thus the market for spring retainers and cones.

The front might be different. Sometimes you might need to press down on the axel since the radius arms and other front suspension components bind. However this can be done trivially with a strategically placed bottle jack, but I did not even have to do that and I have done springs 3 times now.

Watch constantly as you drop the axel. Do not over extend your brake lines.

It is a piece of cake. Since you are a beginner, just remember patience.

Good luck!

Brian

 

[curtis]

I would argue againt using spring compressors simply because they are a waste of time. Here is the easy way to do it and the spring will fall out and back in with no need to compress. Yes - even with sways attached.

If you simply let the axle go unsupported (remember that your frame is supported and the CDL and wheel chocks in place), place your LR bottle jack on the top of the axle and jack it up to hit the frame at the bump stop. You can then jack against the frame which lowers the axle far enough to let most any spring fall in or out. Remember though that your shock will limit the downtravel so you must have this unbolted top or bottom for this to work.

 

[curtis]

You don't need to know a darned thing about suspensions to replace shocks and springs. Just go for it and follow some instructions. The service manual might help too.

You have to start somewhere with wrenching and shocks/springs and brakes are an ideal place to start (IMHO).

Brian

I agree 100% with Brian. A few years back when I had a D2 and it was under warranty, this was my first real mechanical experience with a Rover. It was a great place to start and truly showed me how simple these vehicles are.

 

[cmondieyoung]

Fine.

But don't start pulling at bolts without any idea what you are trying to do---which I suppose was my initial concern.

 

[RKORES]

Jeffrey,

Do you go to Appalachian? I looked you up on the school page, and there is a Jeffrey Emmons. I went to App last year, but I am now at State. Shoot me an e-mail at trekboyy5@aol.com and I might be able to help some.

Will

 

[bri]

Thank god someone agrees with me on this.

Assuming that asurover has done a bit of research, has some instructions and the service manual, he would have to make some pretty horrible mistakes to have a problem. Wear gloves, i.e. Mecahix.

Like I said I had absolutely no experience or tools when I did the same thing. First time I think it took me 8 hours, but I had to go buy the channel locks since the nut on the top of the front shock was a pain. I did not break it before removing the shock and tower. A good breaker bar or flex handle will help on that and a second set of hands to hold the shock will help.

Now that I have done it the whole thing takes about 2 hours or so. If your brake pads are worn down to 4mm do them as well. Use the soft Rover pads if you have stock rotors.

It will make the job easier if you remove the anti-sways altogether. I'd keep them for future use and/or fit a dislocation kit.

Cheerio!

Brian