Overheating After Extensive Coolant system renovation

[Houston]

a stick of butter is going to feel rock hard to this guy.

Wow- Are you really thinking that I am that much of a rube?

I know what a pressurized hose is and feels like, and I am in no way paranoid about the worst case scenario. This isn't my truck and I have, on my truck, happily done a headgasket job and would again.

But then, I probably misunderstood what you posted.

 

[DarylJ]

Let the guy properly bleed the system before people start jumping to conclusions about cracked blocks or head gaskets.

I completely disagree. I'm not jumping to any conclusions. According to his original post he bled it well enough to prevent it from massively overheating and it's spiking temps rather than a steady overheat.

Knowing and having experienced (and having the carnage in my shop) these motors it's a pretty reasonable, sensible, cheap, and easy to perform test that will confirm the issue without any more fuss or any more of what seems to be randomly throwing cooling system related parts at a problem rather than diagnosing it.

 

[Houston]

Let's get this out of the way: coolant exhaust gas test. Go rent one from AutoZone and use it. If you've got exhaust gases in the coolant, nothing else matters at this point as you'll need head gaskets at best. And possibly much worse.

I will go get one. I have never gotten to this point with any Discos. When I did mine it was evident that it was leaking from the head gasket to the outside of the bock.

 

[Houston]

Was it overheating before you did the cooling system work?

If not, it's likely the thermo or radiator (or air in the system).

If yes, then block/heads might be the deal.

I can't see it suddenly developing a cracked block/blown HGs if it wasn't overheating before.

It had overheated because it was loosing coolant from the water pump gasket. There was no way to diagnose anything further than that at the time, so we just got to work fixing the problems. If there was coolant in the system before and it wasnt running out rapidly, I believe it was cooling.

 

[Houston]

-Refit the expansion tank/reservoir and add coolant to the line if needed. Leave the cap OFF, and start the truck. Let it run to operating temperature, keeping an eye on the coolant level in the reservoir, add if needed, do not install the cap. Of course keep an eye on the gauge.
-Once it is warmed up, and you are sure the thermostat has opened, rev gently to 3000rpm and then gently let it come back to idle. Do this 3 times. Any percolating in the reservoir is air working itself out of the system and escaping "to atmosphere" via the uncapped tank. This is the air that causes the waterfall sound in the heater core if you don't get rid of it.
-Let it idle a couple more minutes, and shut it down. Let it cool down to ambient temperature (or as close to it as you have time to wait) and if needed, add coolant to the reservoir. NOW you can install the cap. Road test and see what happens.

The above is what I haven't followed yet.

Plan of action:
Do the above.
Drive to Autozone and rent sniffer
Go from there

I don't think this thing is exhaust gas pressurized it feels like something between 16-20psi and I am able to squeeze the tube.

Stay tuned. And a hearty thank you to those who have ventured well considered opinions and experiences.

 

[LRflip]

Wow- Are you really thinking that I am that much of a rube?

I know what a pressurized hose is and feels like, and I am in no way paranoid about the worst case scenario. This isn't my truck and I have, on my truck, happily done a headgasket job and would again.

But then, I probably misunderstood what you posted.

Yea, I wouldn't take what I said personally considering I don't know you personally.

What I am trying to say is that when I think there is something wrong with my truck, I am overly sensitive to every noise and slightest movement of the gauges. I call it "Roverchondria".

This may be a different circumstance since it's not your truck but, I know that's how I would be. Not calling you a rube.

 

[stu454]

.....What I am trying to say is that when I think there is something wrong with my truck, I am overly sensitive to every noise and slightest movement of the gauges. I call it "Roverchondria"....

I always have an acute case; and my trucks have been pretty good to me (knock on wood).

I'll smell hot brakes, burnt oil and exhaust from another vehicle in traffic and assume it's me. Noises, creaks and groans from other vehicles? I hate them, again because I think it's my truck.

When I get away from the offending vehicle I breathe a sigh of relief.

 

[SGaynor]

I always have an acute case; and my trucks have been pretty good to me (knock on wood).

I'll smell hot brakes, burnt oil and exhaust from another vehicle in traffic and assume it's me. Noises, creaks and groans from other vehicles? I hate them, again because I think it's my truck.

When I get away from the offending vehicle I breathe a sigh of relief.

I'm glad I'm not the only one....

 

[K-rover]

I always have an acute case; and my trucks have been pretty good to me (knock on wood).

I'll smell hot brakes, burnt oil and exhaust from another vehicle in traffic and assume it's me. Noises, creaks and groans from other vehicles? I hate them, again because I think it's my truck.

When I get away from the offending vehicle I breathe a sigh of relief.

Yep.. Thats me too. Id rather over paranoid and catch any problem before it gets worse.

That being said, Im thinking a coolant flush is in order for me. Just to be safe

 

[LRflip]

I'm glad I'm not the only one....

I think I saw you in traffic today, you were crossing Tryon turning left onto 64 coming from ellenwood...

Silver '03 with a mild lift, winch bumper and sliders?

about an hour.5 ago?

 

[Houston]

Well after what I consider to be a by the book fill of coolant that I burped like my newborn child here we sit on the side of the street with the discovery overheating.

Didn't get the exhaust gas tester as it was a $30 purchase. That's up to him.

I think it's the HG and he wants to try the radiator first.

Shitty.

 

[SGaynor]

I think I saw you in traffic today, you were crossing Tryon turning left onto 64 coming from ellenwood...

Silver '03 with a mild lift, winch bumper and sliders?

about an hour.5 ago?

Yep, that was probably me...

 

[Jake1996D1]

Well after what I consider to be a by the book fill of coolant that I burped like my newborn child here we sit on the side of the street with the discovery overheating.

Didn't get the exhaust gas tester as it was a $30 purchase. That's up to him.

I think it's the HG and he wants to try the radiator first.

Shitty.

You cant rent one from Autozone you just have to buy the tester fluid which is like $8

 

[DarylJ]

I think it's the HG and he wants to try the radiator first.

STOP THROWING PARTS AT THIS.

A bad radiator is pretty obvious. Someone already told you how to test this with an IR thermometer or your hand.

Not to mention the fact that you haven't even changed the thermostat yet (unless I missed it somewhere).

 

[Jake1996D1]

STOP THROWING PARTS AT THIS.

A bad radiator is pretty obvious. Someone already told you how to test this with an IR thermometer or your hand.

Not to mention the fact that you haven't even changed the thermostat yet (unless I missed it somewhere).

Welcome to the dark side... I'm glad you completely disagree.. But now that we have a baseline - check the radiator... If that checks out check the coolant for exhaust gases. If thats inconclusive get a new t-stat

 

[DarylJ]

Welcome to the dark side...

What dark side? I have never, ever suggest to anyone at any time to throw parts at things. If he's not going to do things the easy and obvious way (combustion gas test), he can at least check the radiator and put a thermostat in before replacing the rad.

It's a nonsensical order to do things in based on his symptoms, but it seems a lot of people here don't read and/or understand things very well, or claim to have a lot more experience than they actually do.

 

[Jake1996D1]

I completely disagree. I'm not jumping to any conclusions. According to his original post he bled it well enough to prevent it from massively overheating and it's spiking temps rather than a steady overheat.

Knowing and having experienced (and having the carnage in my shop) these motors it's a pretty reasonable, sensible, cheap, and easy to perform test that will confirm the issue without any more fuss or any more of what seems to be randomly throwing cooling system related parts at a problem rather than diagnosing it.

I was giving you shit about this post. Jumping to conclusions before checking radiator and t-stat.. Both of which could cause a steady increase in temp causing overheating.

 

[DarylJ]

Both of which could cause a steady increase in temp causing overheating.

Except it wasn't a steady increase. It was a temperature spike. From the OP:

"It will go about 5 miles and then suddenly start to overheat. It's not a immediate skyrocketting temp though. It elevates and then stabilizes, then starts climbing again."

Clogged radiators and the normal failure mode of a thermostat (stuck in one position) do not typically cause that behavior. They are a slow steady temperature rise under load.

 

[Jake1996D1]

Except it wasn't a steady increase. It was a temperature spike. From the OP:

"It will go about 5 miles and then suddenly start to overheat. It's not a immediate skyrocketting temp though. It elevates and then stabilizes, then starts climbing again."

Clogged radiators and the normal failure mode of a thermostat (stuck in one position) do not typically cause that behavior. They are a slow steady temperature rise under load.

Sorry but thats not true.. a restriction is flow can cuase steady increase. The thing is the temp gauge isnt the most accurate and it is probably "stabalized" but was indeed still slowly climbing.

 

[DarylJ]

Sorry but thats not true.. a restriction is flow can cuase steady increase.

I really feel like we're having two different conversations, so I'm just going to stop here.