We are talking about a D2 here folks, some of you are preaching D1 tactics.
I have done this a couple thousand times if I have done it once. What I do:
-Remove the bleed screw.
-If the radiator is empty or mostly empty, pull the upper hose off and fill the system through the reservoir until coolant starts to come out the radiator neck, then stick the hose back on.
-unclip the plastic line from the radiator from the battery box, and release the clip holding the reservoir to the truck. Fill it to a little above the line and elevate it up towards the bottom of the hood. As gravity forces the coolant out the bottom and into the rest of the system, the (most of) air will come out of the bleed hole in the upper hose. Make sure the reservoir tank does not go empty, the volume of that elevated fluid is what is providing the "forced" bleeding of the cooling system.
-Eventually the coolant is going to come spurting out of the hole, at this point blurt out "old faithful!", and reinstall the bleed screw. Don't stick it in there the very instant you see it coming out, let it get a good steady stream going, you want to make sure you get as much air out as you can.
-Refit the expansion tank/reservoir and add coolant to the line if needed. Leave the cap OFF, and start the truck. Let it run to operating temperature, keeping an eye on the coolant level in the reservoir, add if needed, do not install the cap. Of course keep an eye on the gauge.
-Once it is warmed up, and you are sure the thermostat has opened, rev gently to 3000rpm and then gently let it come back to idle. Do this 3 times. Any percolating in the reservoir is air working itself out of the system and escaping "to atmosphere" via the uncapped tank. This is the air that causes the waterfall sound in the heater core if you don't get rid of it.
-Let it idle a couple more minutes, and shut it down. Let it cool down to ambient temperature (or as close to it as you have time to wait) and if needed, add coolant to the reservoir. NOW you can install the cap. Road test and see what happens.
If you hear the noise in the dash/heater core, don't worry you just need some more practice, drive it anyway- you need to know if it is gonna overheat when working under a load. If it goes a few miles under normal driving then spikes, probably head gaskets.
Also beware not all head gaskets fail the same. I had one a while back that made some bad noises when I got it started after being parked for a few months, and the reservoir was dry. Well, before I parted it out, I had to know for sure if the engine was bad, so I filled/bled the system, checked the fluids, and it quieted down. On the spur of the moment I decided to go for a drive and forgot to reinstall the cap. Drove around for a half hour, about 15 miles total around town, and the truck was running GREAT. It was quiet, had plenty of power, no misfires at all, I had a smile on my face. Got back to the shop and popped the hood, found the cap and stuck it back on. Now of course I have to redo the test drive... poor thing makes it about a mile and dies in the middle of the highway. Immediately I form my suspicions, and given the circumstances thus far, have a good laugh about it. As I coast to the median I try restarting it, nothing. Spins like a top but wont hit a lick. Now I am convinced its a massively fucked up HG or a bunch of loose liners and the cylinders got washed down with coolant as soon as it built pressure. I unscrewed the cap, and on the last thread, it shoots out of my hand, bounces off the hood, then hits me square in the nose. Fuck it. I jumped in, spun it till the cylinders cleared and the plugs dried out, at which point it fires right up and I proceed to flog it all the way back to the shop. Eventually I tore it down, someone had done the head gaskets and "cleaned" too much off the block which led to eventual, and catastrophic, failure. No cross contamination between coolant and oil, and the cylinder pressure wasn't pushing all the coolant out of the uncapped tank, but once the cooling system got up to pressure it washed down the cylinders. Probably would have been fine in a demo derby car, but I couldn't use it.