Pertronix help, no spark

[Flyfish]

Putting a new Pertronix dizzy & coil setup in my 95 RRC SWB.

I get no spark from the coil to dizzy wire.

Connected the black and red dizzy wires to the coil terminals per the instructions. Reconnected the factory ecu & capacitor wires on coil. I assume all of the factory remote amp plugs/wiring are left out of the equation.

Am I missing a part of the wiring puzzle that would tell it to fire??

Thanks!

 

[Jagfixer]

Pertronix has a help line and usually quick in response. Had a problem with fire up and wound up being wrong wires.

 

[Buddy]

Putting a new Pertronix dizzy & coil setup in my 95 RRC SWB.

I get no spark from the coil to dizzy wire.

Connected the black and red dizzy wires to the coil terminals per the instructions. Reconnected the factory ecu & capacitor wires on coil. I assume all of the factory remote amp plugs/wiring are left out of the equation.

Am I missing a part of the wiring puzzle that would tell it to fire??

Thanks!

Which model dizzy and coil did you use? I used the flamethrower and the 1.5ohm coil on two trucks now and no issues at all. I ran new wires from the dizzy to the coil. Red to + side and black to - side. I then puggled the ignition + and - on the coil and everything fired up. Nothing special needed to be done. This was on two '95 DI's but should be the same deal on the RRC.

 

[jims95]

I have a 95 RRC with a Pertronix distributor with an Ignitor II module and a matching coil.

I removed the factory remote amplifier and wiring harness from the original distributor.


"+" Terminal on Coil connections;
- Red wire from Distributor
- White/Green wire from Harness (12 volts - power wire)


"-" Terminal on Coil connections;
- Black wire from Distributor
- White/Blue wire (signal wire to ECU) Note: There are two (2) 6.8K resistors in this circuit

I disconnected the Capacitor per the Pertronix help line representative.

 

[Flyfish]

I have a 95 RRC with a Pertronix distributor with an Ignitor II module and a matching coil.

I removed the factory remote amplifier and wiring harness from the original distributor.


"+" Terminal on Coil connections;
- Red wire from Distributor
- White/Green wire from Harness (12 volts - power wire)


"-" Terminal on Coil connections;
- Black wire from Distributor
- White/Blue wire (signal wire to ECU) Note: There are two (2) 6.8K resistors in this circuit

I disconnected the Capacitor per the Pertronix help line representative.

That sounds exactly what I did but I will doublecheck.
Thanks for all the detail!

 

[Flyfish]

I have a 95 RRC with a Pertronix distributor with an Ignitor II module and a matching coil.

I removed the factory remote amplifier and wiring harness from the original distributor.


"+" Terminal on Coil connections;
- Red wire from Distributor
- White/Green wire from Harness (12 volts - power wire)


"-" Terminal on Coil connections;
- Black wire from Distributor
- White/Blue wire (signal wire to ECU) Note: There are two (2) 6.8K resistors in this circuit

I disconnected the Capacitor per the Pertronix help line representative.

One interesting difference is my green/white wire has always been on the negative side of coil. Reversing made no difference. My blue and white wire is still hooked into the resistor. I have not located the capacitor to unhook yet.

 

[Flyfish]

Which model dizzy and coil did you use? I used the flamethrower and the 1.5ohm coil on two trucks now and no issues at all. I ran new wires from the dizzy to the coil. Red to + side and black to - side. I then puggled the ignition + and - on the coil and everything fired up. Nothing special needed to be done. This was on two '95 DI's but should be the same deal on the RRC.

I bought the same setup. 175510 I believe.

 

[Flyfish]

Better pic....

 

[jims95]

PM sent.

 

[Flyfish]

Actually found ignition fuse #3 blown. Changed that and fired right up!

Appreciate all the help guys!

 

[aliastel]

I would replace the cap and rotor on the Pertronix with a factory genuine one. I had my Pertronix die in the middle of the north woods with less than 2000 miles on it. It ended up being the cap electrode, which wore down to the point that it wouldn't contact the rotor. Very cheap part needless to say. . . Makes me wonder about the rest of the assembly to tell you the truth.

 

[Flyfish]

I would replace the cap and rotor on the Pertronix with a factory genuine one. I had my Pertronix die in the middle of the north woods with less than 2000 miles on it. It ended up being the cap electrode, which wore down to the point that it wouldn't contact the rotor. Very cheap part needless to say. . . Makes me wonder about the rest of the assembly to tell you the truth.

Actually, now it randomly has a mis or cuts out on me so I've tried a couple different caps and rotors and haven't figured out what's causing it. I've done multiple voltage tests and everything comes out good so not real sure what the deal is.

 

[jims95]

Since this vehicle has 14CUX, and is OBDI, have you checked the 2 digit code reader, that is under the passenger seat, on the right side, for any error codes? Any displayed 2 digit codes identify issues that need to be addressed.

Years ago, I saw a Technical Service Bulletin, that recommended replacing all spade terminal connections on the coil wires, with crimped ring terminals for a better connection and reliability.

 

[aliastel]

Actually, now it randomly has a mis or cuts out on me so I've tried a couple different caps and rotors and haven't figured out what's causing it. I've done multiple voltage tests and everything comes out good so not real sure what the deal is.

A bad coil or the wrong coil caused that on mine. I used the factory coil and it worked well, whereas an MSD Blaster did not.

 

[Flyfish]

Since this vehicle has 14CUX, and is OBDI, have you checked the 2 digit code reader, that is under the passenger seat, on the right side, for any error codes? Any displayed 2 digit codes identify issues that need to be addressed.

Years ago, I saw a Technical Service Bulletin, that recommended replacing all spade terminal connections on the coil wires, with crimped ring terminals for a better connection and reliability.

I did not check since no lights have been turned on but I will give it a look. Thank you.

 

[Flyfish]

A bad coil or the wrong coil caused that on mine. I used the factory coil and it worked well, whereas an MSD Blaster did not.

All of the resistance and mold test I've done the coil are right where they should be. Not to say I can completely rule that out. Easy swap for sure!