Pinion and Carrier Bearings D2 part numbers

ddotson

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2006
95
0
Charlotte, NC
Company is named Milex, and sometimes goes by Mr. Transmission. The store that is screwing me royally is located in Pineville, NC -
 

justinhaaga

Well-known member
Oct 27, 2004
3,369
0
Syracuse, UT
ok i would get some facts and call your shop and tell them the work involved and recommend they reqoute you.

First, what is the problem? Your Ring and Pinion shot? Your bearings shot? A rover diff is one of the easiest to work on because it's a full 3rd memeber they can work on it on the bench. Easier than a GM, Ford or Chrysler.
 

ddotson

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2006
95
0
Charlotte, NC
Only problem is a shot Pinion bearing. They are also planning on changing over the carrier bearings. That is all I have been told. The Manager said he talked to his tech, who said that it was going to be pretty much a rebuild? I do not see how that is the case, but again, I have never broken one apart...
 

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
Tell them that they're quote is ridiculous and to put it back together and you'll pick it up.. then do it yourself in your driveway.. if it's the flange side, it's easy, you dont have to touch the diff at all..
 

ddotson

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2006
95
0
Charlotte, NC
Got my truck back - runs and sounds like crap. Perfect! I guess it is time to take her to Dad. NEVER do business with Kevin Dick in Pineville, my ass still hurts!!
 

ddotson

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2006
95
0
Charlotte, NC
OK guys - I do not have the same type of vibration from before, but I do have a vibration all the same - felt through the steering wheel, and I can also hear my back driver's side passenger seat shaking a bit. Also, I now hear a squeal when I push down on the gas between 15-40, as if it is too tight? Is it possible that the bearings were not properly greased? The front differential is no doubt louder now than before I had the work done. What could have went wrong when these bosos put my truck back together? Any help would be appreciated!

_______________________________________________________
'00 D2 106K
 
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beemer

Guest
As bad as this thread has sounded I wouldn't put it past them they screwed up other things just to get back at you, but prove it in court.

I'm now going thru a 87 325is BMW limited slip because of a carrier bearing making noise, dealers remove and replace only as a unit for hold your pecker, $3,400.
They no longer go inside them and have no internal parts available at all just seals.

A complete Timken bearing set, seals, gaskets, "O" ring and snap rings with free shipping on items over $50 was thru www. Autohausaz.com.
They handle many other vehicle brands, I didn't check on your bearings.

I'm into the differental for $153, labors free as I have a bearing splitter and press.

I feel for you as these shops need to be put out of business, hell your already screwed with high dollar Rover replacement parts already. Best of luck and get the front diff checked before it costs big dollars.
 

ddotson

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2006
95
0
Charlotte, NC
Thanks for the post. I have found, after inspecting my truck that the first of the two u joints on the cardan section of the front joint is about to go. I was told by the Manager that the u-joints were good, yet I found just yesterday that the seals have broken away, and the circle clips are unclipped. Screwdriver can cause seperation. Going to take the shaft into another shop this week - ha ha - and have them change out the joints with greasables... I need to drive the truck for 13 more miles, as I am unable to take off the drive shaft - apartment manager would frown on me jacking her up in the parking lot - although I do have the nipple to lock out the diff. I am crossing my fingers that she will not grenade in that time...
 
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RichardS

Well-known member
May 2, 2005
871
0
Maryville, TN
ddotson said:
I am unable to take off the drive shaft - apartment manager would frown on me jacking her up in the parking lot - although I do have the nipple to lock out the diff.

No real need to jack up the truck to remove the driveshaft. Remove the bolts on the axle end of the shaft. Then put the transfer case in neutral so you can spin the shaft and get access to the 4 bolts on the transfer case end.

Actually if you are worried about the apt manager just take your truck and tools somewhere else. Like a friend's house, or even a coin op car wash or something. Be creative, you could save a lot of $$$ here by preventing a driveshaft failure.
 

ddotson

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2006
95
0
Charlotte, NC
Well I was able to find a very friendly, knowledgable place in Charlotte. CCC Truck Parts Company - drive line shop. Dropped off the drive shaft, had it back to me rebuilt with all new u joints in no time at all. Out the door for under $150, and no more vibrations. Maybe this saga is over...or at least subsided for a little while.

Thanks for all your suggestions guys - much appreciated, as always.
 

gmookher

Well-known member
Oct 30, 2004
5,201
0
Grand Canyon State
So I suspect my pinion bearing but How can I be sure? How do I know if its flange side or the one on the other side? I see teh pinion, I see teh bearing, what do I need to hook onto to pull the bearing out-any specific bearing puller?
 

Urban Panzer

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2008
161
0
uk
www.discovery2.co.uk
rmuller said:
Ask them what their hourly rate is, and how many hours they think it'll take...

I can do carrier bearings in probably 30-45 mins (most of the time removing the diff), and the flange side bearing in 10 minutes... all that entails, remove driveshaft (from one side), remove flange nut, pull flange, pull seal, pull bearing, replace bearing, put seal back, put flange back, torque down nut, replace driveshaft..

Interesting, Might look into my pinion bearing then,

What do you use to pull the flange bearing exactly ?
 
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barefoot

Guest
i wanted to tell you from the beginning that it was probably a front u-joint but i just saw this thread. when pinion bearings are going, they make a lot of whinning/whirring noises that are loud and obvious. vibrations come at a much later point...generally. shaking and chirping are classic u-joint failure signs. vibes around 70 are generally from the rear and low speeds from the front...typically.

man, you really did take it in the ass on this one! $700.00 (and a fucking headache) for a bearing rebuild that didn't need to be done in the first place? i would be so pissed, i think i would be inclined to write something up about your experience with the place and submit it to the local newspaper. trust me, they love this type of shit....spreading bad news and heresy!

for the future, you need tools and a place to work a bit lined up. you could have saved yourself a shit load of time, hassle and money.

enjoy!