please help me, dealer is trying to convince me that i am screwed

[darw_n]

OK, i took my rover to a local dealer. They managed to find problems. I am nervous about them because they are a "coupon" pusher, you know, the "print this web coupon, and get 10% off any repair" type of place (www.westsidelandrover.com) I do know that the brakes are indeed in the need of repair, but i feel that they are trying to charge WAAAAAAAAAYYY too much, correct me if i am wrong however. Then there are the leaks, they insist that the leaks are major, and i need a repair now.

as you read this, keep in mind that I want to wheel, and want an OME lift, new tires, and drilled brakes, so I would rather spend the money there, and do everything my self, but i have yet to work on my rover on my own, and i am very very busy.

here's the specs: 2000 DII with 65,000 miles (springs) (approaching my 67,000 tune-up)

here's what the dealer quoted:

front brakes and rotors : 645
rear brakes and rotors : 525
slight intake oil leak and front pinion seal leak : 745
carbon cleaning : 150

I have to admit, i am a little apprehensive and suspicious. First off, i never had a leak until i reguested a complete review, suddenly, there's oil on my gear box and somewhere else that I have yet to see (intake???). Second, they insisted that the leaks were serious, and that they needed fixed, athough i left the truck parked for a week, and i found no oil, just a slightly damp gear box.

here's what i am thinking:

first, replace my own brakes and rotors with stuff from expedition exchange 9those australian drilled rotors and factory pads). Or does anyone suggest just taking it to a cheap-o brake place until i get my drilled rotors (I minght need a caliper re-build too, its drifting when i brake) The problem with doing DIY that is that I have limited time, and almost no tools, and I live in an apartment, so there is no high lift or hydrolic lift, just some floor jacks in a parking garage.

now, the leaks, i was always told that leaks in rovers are standard, and i should just watch my levels...

what do you guys think?

i really need your help here because it seems that I might need to drop several grand, right when i don't have a grand, if you catch what I am saying

thanks much

 

[MUSKYMAN]

your screwed!

those prices seam sky high!....but thats what you get at stealerships.

it sounds like you want the disco disco but yet you are not set up to keep it maintained.

I would by the brake components you want and have someone put them on for you...sounds like you will still be cheaper then the dealers "brake job"

then if the guy does a good job on the brakes get his opinion on the rest.

just to be safe....check all your fluid levels...leaks are only bad for a vehichle when things get low.

MM

 

[NVRover]

Hope this doesn't post twice, I submitted my first post and got a Service Unavailable message.....

Anyway, you might want to check out http://www.bushducks.com/landrover/landrover.htm#OH

They show two independent land rover mechanics in OH and one is in the Cleveland Area. Also, look up Paul T. Schram either on this website, or Pirate4x4.com (look under the BBS for the Land Rover section), or go to the RoversNorth.com bulletin board and you can find him there. I believe he's an independent Rover mechanic in OH. I don't know him but I've read his posts and he certainly seems helpful to others.

Also note that rovers leak, and just based on your description it seems as if you have the standard sepage that occurs. That's just my opinion based on having two of them, one that leaks and one that used to leak.

Definitely check out independent mechanics who can give you a second opinion. I'm sure there are other independent mechanics in Clevelend that can help you, just look for the ones that service high end cars. You're bound to find one that works on Rovers.

Sorry I couldn't help you with technical advice...I too have to rely on these bulletin boards and my independent mechanic.

Chris

 

[MarkP]

The prices seem reasonable for a dealer. That said, I would do the work myself. Buy yourself some metric tools with the money you save. Also pick up a workshop manual.

Atlantic British carries a brake rebuild kit front/rear that includes all the parts you need. Rotors, pads, pins, screws for $310. Rebuild one end at a time, front or rear. Just complete both sides, driver & passenger, at the same time. You should be able to easily complete the front or rear in a day.

As for leaks that just the real time rust prevention system working. Keep an eye on the severity of the leaks and keep it topped off. Slight leaks are to be expected with a 60's technology block, even if it has been updated to the 90's.

Carbon cleaning - don't know what they are using but I run BG44K through mine once a year. Runs much better after. Cost is $20 a can. One can per treatment.

Good Luck!

 

[Sergei]

Dude, even in CO you shouldnt pay more than 200$/axle to most of brake jobs. Typical median charge is like 150$/axle. So 500-600$/axle is way high. You can save more by driving down here to Durango and getting job done in most shops for 150$/axle.

Or you can hook up with JeffC (rover mechanic who is in process of opening his shop but currently working from home or on call) who will surely beat any dealer's invoice and he is in Denver Need email?

Motorvac price is a wee bit high - i paid 120$ this spring and it was somewhat decent price.
Dunno about fixing leak - never priced that one...

 

[MarkP]

Like I said, reasonable for a "Dealer". A general rule of thumb for non-dealer shops is take the parts and double them, so complete job is roughly $620. The $310 in labor is only 4.5 hrs of labor, not much. AB parts package was $310, thats 4 rotors, two pad sets and all the misc stuff. Decent F&R pads are about $80-$100 so that's $210 - $230 for 4 rotors, a good price. You must have some cheap labor in Durango for $150 per axle, $300 total.

Like I said, pick up the AB package, some tools, a manual and save yourself $700+. I haven't found a shop yet that can beat my price. Then again I'm the cheap labor. As for Durango, I can drive there for other reasons

 

[Jim]

If the rotors aren't warped, ground up or grooved, just replace the pads for less than $50/axle.

And a "major" leak is when the fluid runs out faster than you can pour it back in. Otherwise, if fluid levels can be maintained with periodic checks they're not "major" (they still may require attention, but at your leisure, not the dealer's).

A good mechanic will prioritize the repairs you need, if everything is "urgent" keep looking or roll up your sleeves and do it yourself. It's a nice way to spend the day.

JH

 

[Meisterbr?wn]

I paid about $950 for front & rear pads & rotors. This was at an indie shop in Seattle.

Now that I have the courage (and a little know-how), I'll be doing this work myself. Is there any chance of you "borrowing" someone's garage for a Saturday to do the work yourself? The money you can save in dealership labor might get you to the upgraded parts you want.

I can't speak to the fluid leaks, but it sounds like there is a consensus that its not all that bad.

Good luck!

 

[scrover]

...Carbon cleaning - don't know what they are using but I run BG44K through mine once a year. Runs much better after. Cost is $20 a can. One can per treatment...

Yeah, that stuff is awesome

SC

 

[Blue]

here's what i am thinking:

first, replace my own brakes and rotors with stuff from expedition exchange 9those australian drilled rotors and factory pads). Or does anyone suggest just taking it to a cheap-o brake place until i get my drilled rotors (I minght need a caliper re-build too, its drifting when i brake) The problem with doing DIY that is that I have limited time, and almost no tools, and I live in an apartment, so there is no high lift or hydrolic lift, just some floor jacks in a parking garage.

You can DIY, but you need tools & equipment. Try finding a local mechanic who will do it for a fair hourly wage and you can supply the parts. Don't go el cheapo as a stop-gap. That's just a waste of time & money.

First off, i never had a leak until i reguested a complete review, suddenly, there's oil on my gear box and somewhere else that I have yet to see (intake???). Second, they insisted that the leaks were serious, and that they needed fixed, athough i left the truck parked for a week, and i found no oil, just a slightly damp gear box.

Just periodically check your fluid levels and you'll be fine.

 

[Blue]

Also, look up Paul T. Schram either on this website, or Pirate4x4.com (look under the BBS for the Land Rover section), or go to the RoversNorth.com bulletin board and you can find him there. I believe he's an independent Rover mechanic in OH. I don't know him but I've read his posts and he certainly seems helpful to others.

LOL.....read his corporate philosophy on his website and then decide if you want him raping your rover....LOFL

 

[Leo_Hallak]

EE and DBA

I have the DBA brake pads and rotors from EE. You can really tell the difference over stock. Doing the brakes yourself is a pretty easy job if you have the tools, if you need a parks breakdown and instructions I can fax you them over from the service manual.

-leo

 

[Denisk]

so, which set of rotors di you get? how long are these lasting? please also share your thougths on pads. mine 01 has barely made it to 25k and the stealer tells me my rear rotors are done!

 

[hywy61]

duration of rotors

I live in atlanta so i do alot of stop and go traffic. I replace my pads about every 24K and have never replaced the rotors. The land rover tech i spoke with told me they should last 100k as long as you change the pads frequently enough.

DII 59K

 

[Meisterbr?wn]

I like the sound of that. Pads are relatively inexpensive and pretty easy to replace on a Saturday morning. I wouldn't mind doing the pads every other year if it meant my rotors would get a lot more life.