Prep a d1 SD for Big Bend

[HiSPL]

Hey all.

Just picked up a 96 D1 SD, 4.0 manual for next to nothing. Right now its kind of a blank slate. I would much rather spend dough on this than some pos RV or Van that has no utility. I want to outfit this thing to go camping and mtb'ing in Big Bend. What would you say is the absolute neccesaries I'll need for that?

I'm only asking about the vehicle part of the equation here. I've got the camping covered.

I grew up on a farm in TN. We had 4wd trucks that I used all the time, but as an adult this will be my first "4 wheeler" toy. I'm not interested in lifts or giant tires unless its needed. I am purely a "function over form" type of a guy. So what say the asylum? Are lockers needed? Axles? Driveshafts? Or is this stuff for serious crawling and I'll be fine on stock components?

 

[1920SF]

There is something sublime about a stock Discovery, I'd suggest you baseline the fluids and look at maintenance and run it as-is, with the only real investment being a set of good tires. They are amazingly capable in stock form-the 5 speed in particular does very well in low range, low gear, once you learn how to drive it as such.
r-
Ray

 

[stu454]

What he said.

Less is so often more with these trucks.

Ben Little doesn't post here anymore, but he had a practically perfect D1. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/27708-99-SD-Build?referrerid=48169

You could do far worse than to follow his lead.

 

[K-rover]

Diff guards, especially for a non lifted truck.
New brakes all around
New or rebuilt drive shafts.
Complete fluid change
New tires
Check for worn suspension parts
Check the 4wd drive system.

That should get you pretty far.

 

[Tugela]

Before you get carried away with ideas for an optimal Disco build, get behind the wheel and find out what the truck can do to establish a base line. You may be pleasantly surprised. A stock D1 is capable in the hands of a skilled driver.

Your first priority should be to get the truck in good mechanical condition. All the aftermarket upgrades in the world will be worthless if the engine overheats because of a clogged radiator, leaving you stranded. If you want a vehicle for the long run then invest the time and money up front into making your Disco safe and reliable. Chances are previous owners will have neglected it. Brakes, cooling system, and drivetrain maintenance can improve your safety margins and peace of mind.

Once you are confident the truck is in solid shape, then start with the upgrades. Keep in mind it can be a deep rabbit hole. If you lift the truck with taller springs you may need to address steering and drive shaft issues that result. If you install bigger tires you may need to change gearing. If you change gearing you will need to upgrade your axles. And so on. In many cases, each change requires an upgrade to the next component in the line so as to eliminate any weak links in the overall system.

Maybe you will find out that for the kind of driving you want to do a modest approach of slightly taller springs and slightly larger tires will get you where you want to go. Maybe you want more. But try out the truck as-is first to see what it can do. And keep in mind there are diminishing returns. Plus it's important to have time and money left over to get out into the wilderness and enjoy it.

Oh, you will definitely need a bike rack. I mostly use a Thule that mounts on my spare wheel. I also have a roof mounted option, but even at 6'4" it can be a struggle to put a 29er full suspension mountain bike up there (I have taller tires and springs from stock).

 

[robertf]

Upgraded Steering links, front diff guard, rear lower links.

 

[best4x4]

If you're going to Big Bend make sure to have one truly good spare (I'd personally carry two if you plan on doing some serious off roading out there), extra fuel, lots of water, and of coarse a good supply of spare key parts (relays, fuses, at least one long spark plug wire, and a good tool set).

A D1/D2 in stock form out at Big Bend will do very well with a good set of Goodyear Duratracs, or BFG KO2's. Just make sure your CDL is working properly and you should do fine. I've seen plenty of Ford E-150 Vans out at Big Bend (For College Class Trips) and they can even make some of it.

I'd concentrate on spare parts, good tires, good maintenance on the D1, tools, extra fuel cans, spare tire/patch kit (lots of thorny bushes and sharp rocks), and recovery gear.

 

[HiSPL]

Cool. Thanks.

I'm pretty happy keeping it stock. Lets me concentrate on getting it to a good baseline instead of shopping for lifts and bumpers.

 

[WaltNYC]

Probably a good idea to take the lower front valence off (with the fog lights)...before some rock does.

 

[HiSPL]

I keep reading about people rebuilding their drive shafts, or carrying spares. When does Propshaft detonation become a problem? Is this because of big tires and gearing changes? If I'm running stockish sized wheels and tires will it ever be an issue?

 

[best4x4]

Front driveshaft's don't get greased often and it's placed right by a catalytic convertor so it cooks the grease and then it's metal to metal, squeak squeak, BOOM..

 

[1920SF]

I keep reading about people rebuilding their drive shafts, or carrying spares. When does Propshaft detonation become a problem? Is this because of big tires and gearing changes? If I'm running stockish sized wheels and tires will it ever be an issue?

Don't carry a spare front, just rebuild it so you know when it was done (it's easy since it's just 2 u joints)-and grease it everytime you change the oil. If you run into problems with it b/c you never do that, pull it and lock the dif and you are now just RWD-or vice versa if the rear has an issue. Worst case, carry two spare u joints. If you run into a situation where you can't rebuild one of your two shafts and limp out, burn the truck with a thermite and call it fate.

 

[HiSPL]

Don't carry a spare front, just rebuild it so you know when it was done (it's easy since it's just 2 u joints)-and grease it everytime you change the oil. If you run into problems with it b/c you never do that, pull it and lock the dif and you are now just RWD-or vice versa if the rear has an issue. Worst case, carry two spare u joints. If you run into a situation where you can't rebuild one of your two shafts and limp out, burn the truck with a thermite and call it fate.

Sounds like a plan. Adding greasable ujoints isn't that hard....

 

[Tugela]

I keep reading about people rebuilding their drive shafts, or carrying spares. When does Propshaft detonation become a problem? Is this because of big tires and gearing changes? If I'm running stockish sized wheels and tires will it ever be an issue?

Drive shaft detonation becomes a problem through neglect and wear. If you don't know the history of your drive shafts you should consider rebuilding them. It's an easy job, each U-joint costs somewhere in the neighborhood of $20-$40, and a drive shaft shop will charge you between $50 - $100 to balance it. Cheap insurance.

If you are running stockish tires the stresses put on the drive shafts, particularly the front, won't be much different from stock. It becomes a greater concern when you start altering drivetrain geometries via lifts, etc. Rebuild them with greasable u-joints and forget about it for tens of thousands of miles (but keep up on routine greasing).