Problem - front Trutrac diff or CV joint?

[Mongo]

could a pinion bearing, TT's are virtually indestrucable, I've blown 3 cv's, including twisting half shafts and have done nodamage to the TT. So I thinks it's something in the set-up on the third member. Have your guy pull the axle shafts and pull the the diff...and check the install on the TT...

frank

 

[bri]

Look at it this way. It it is the TT and it is making is noise this is not good. Even if it were the bearing, if there are pieces parts in there, the diff could be toast. On the other hand the same thing goes for the CV so the more you wait the worse it gets and the more you get to replace.

 

[discoal]

I told you so

John, John, John!
I told you were to find him and his phone number.
Depending on who at the dealership looked at your disco they may be right.
Now is there anyone better to work on your disco in town?
Save yourself some money and stop wasting time, you're not going to wench it yourself.

Alan

222-0444 Bill

 

[D Chapman]

There is plenty of fresh-looking diff oil (synthetic) in the diff.

If this is true, it's probably not the diff. A groaning noise coming from the diff would indicate metal on metal grinding...If's thats the case, your oil would not be "fresh looking".

My money would also be in a dry CV joint (without seeing the truck)

 

[barshnik]

To Steve Rupp (I'm getting tired of people here asking for advice and completely disregarding the advice from the guys that have been here a long time and know what they're talking about.):

Sorry I've annoyed you. To tell you the truth, you are beginning to annoy me - just ignore me if you think I'm intentionally disregarding useful info, although I've yet to see any from you. I've given pretty specific details on what I've noticed, looking for someway to validate what my dealer told me. You've given no useful info other than to 'take it apart'.

To Alan Gifford: Yes, I'm taking it to Bill Goodman as soon as he can fit me in. I'll let him make the call at this point. BTY, you been out lately? Got to tell you about our trip to NE NV recently.

To Dan, Chuck, Frank, and Brian: Thanks for your non-abusive help, you really have been great.

End of thread.

John F
LV, NV

 

[Steve Rupp]

End of thread.

Not quite.

You've given no useful info other than to 'take it apart'.

Exactly. The axles need to come out to check the diff. Do it and then come back asking for advice. That's why I haven't offered too much help. Check the bearings in the diff and pull the boot off the CV. Then report back and see what everybody thinks. Don't you think that's a better way to do things than to put your ear up to things and say "No, you're wrong"?

 

[barshnik]

Steve - I don't want to get into a pissing contest with you - I'm sure you are a great guy, and I'm not a bridge-burner by nature. I've already pointed out why I don't feel comfortable 'pulling it apart' - I do a lot of work on my D2, but this I've already admited is out of my league.

Where did I say 'you're wrong' to anyone, especially you?

Thanks, anyway, I'm sure you know so much about this, including having a TT you installed yourself, that you just can't relate to someone who has admitted having no knowledge about driveline issues. So, I understand your frustration. If I had the knowledge, time, and tools for doing what you've suggested (take it apart), I never would have posted anything in the first place, now would I?

I've reviewed many of your previous post, and you've been generally helpfull, though occasionally abrasive. I can take occasional abrasive - I'm married - so no offense.

Sorry we got off on the wrong foot. I'll post the final outcome sometime in the near future to hopefully help someone that comes up with a similar problem.

John F
LV, NV

 

[disco_fever]

.

Thanks, anyway, I'm sure you know so much about this, including having a TT you installed yourself, that you just can't relate to someone who has admitted having no knowledge about driveline issues. So, I understand your frustration. If I had the knowledge, time, and tools for doing what you've suggested (take it apart), I never would have posted anything in the first place, now would I?

Its been established that...

1. you don't have the time, knowledge or tools to deal with the problem. its ok, the majority of us don't.

2. The dealer isn't the best option and you want a second opinion on the TT. This is highly recomended by everyone here.

3. No one can 100% diagnose your problem over the web and they can't fix it.

Your only option is to take it to an independent LR or offroad shop(where they are going to take stuff apart and not just 'listen' to it), which for some reason you seem very reluctant to do. Its a pretty obvious solution.

 

[barshnik]

<<Your only option is to take it to an independent LR or offroad shop(where they are going to take stuff apart and not just 'listen' to it), which for some reason you seem very reluctant to do. Its a pretty obvious solution.>>

Not reluctant at all. I took it to the dealer first, thinking it was CV related, and would (might) be covered under my extended warranty.

They had it for 2 weeks, did nothing, claimed it was the TT, so I picked it up yesterday. Tomorrow I'll call the independent LR mechanic, make an appointment, and get it properly diagnosed and fixed.

Thanks,

John F
LV, NV

 

[Steve Rupp]

Tomorrow I'll call the independent LR mechanic, make an appointment, and get it properly diagnosed and fixed.

Now that's what I'm talking about.

 

[barshnik]

Told you I'd keep you updated FYI, dropped off D2 today with 'independant' LR shop, got a call a little while ago. Failed TT is all I know, he will show me damage when I stop by (hopefully tomorrow.)

I'll let you know more when I know more. Maybe the first known case of a failed TT?

Now that I've got the ONE bad TT one out of the way, I may have him install a TT or locker in the rear, and replace the roto with a proper U joint.

Anything else you'd recommend / wish for while the front driveline is apart?

Thanks,

John F
LV, NV

 

[Steve Rupp]

I definitely want to see pics of this. Bring your camera.

 

[Trey & Melissa Burns]

Could be that whoever installed the TT set it up wrong.

I would check the splines of the axels as well to make sure they are not damaged due to the TT failure.

Agree with Steve - get pictures so we can see.

Trey

 

[barshnik]

I'll bring the camera. From what he said, the TT would be difficult to install incorrectly. I'll let you know (and see) more, before it gets sent back to TT. Thanks,

John F
LV, NV

 

[Steve Rupp]

Well, not really actually. TT's are specific for front and rear and the internals (gears) need to be setup accordingly for the application. I guess it's possible that a rear was put up front.

 

[Mongo]

I'd like to see pictures too...the TT's are really tough...I have over 65k on mine, broken 3 cv's with spun half shafts and it's still fine...

Frank

 

[discoal]

John,
Saw your TT today! Little metel parts inside. I'm no expert, but you know who was saying it not good. Gears look ok. You need a TT or arb in the rear. I't only money but if you remember that's how I'm set-up. TT front Arb rear. Hopefully TT still covered.
Call me sometime
AG

 

[Steve Rupp]

Actually, I would like to have that broken TT. I'll pay for shipping if it's junk.

 

[barshnik]

Steve -

It'll be going to GBR, to be sent back to TracTech for (I hope) warranty relief. But, we'll see...

John F

 

[LuisC]

I don't have any traction control devices in my diffs yet. But I have been doing homework in considering them for my D1.
From what I find in some research, is it possible to grenade a TT if one of your tires has different air pressue than the other on the same axle?

Somehting to ponder.


Luis