Pulling Main Bearing caps and Connecting Rod caps to inspect wear...Advice needed

[robbyb20]

Finishing up doing work on the truck before winter hits and i cant work outside on it. (I live in an apt and do all my work on the street unfortunately).

This round of work is trying to tackle a low end idle knock once warmed up. I have the bearings on hand and new connecting rod bolts, didn't think i needed new bolts for the mains though.

2 questions:

1 - Do I need to take off the front cover? I can see it potentially helping give some clearance for the mains. Ill be doing this with engine in place. I can get the oil pan off and out of the way. Ill have to use a tool or engineer something to roll the top main bearings out if they need replacing. Obviously if there is wear on the crank ill need to figure out the best solution when I come to that bridge. Ultimately, do I need to take off the front cover to get at the top main bearing?

2 - Ill assemble with assembly lube on the contact side but what about the reverse side? AKA, the side that shouldn't be spinning? I read conflicting advice on the web and some say do, some say not to. Feels like if it was lubed, it would potentially spin in place.

I would like to have the ability to check the oil pressure but there seems to be some confusion on what size threads are needed for the current oil pressure sender. Does anyone have any experience with this? https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-3-4-unf-16-thread/ Got the link from this thread https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/installing-oil-pressure-gauge-77265/page2/

Ive already replaced the oil pump, polished the oil pump area (wasnt scored really) and also investigated getting a new front cover but these must be really hard to come by for D1s.

Thank you
Rob

 

[p m]

I am not an engine rebuilder, so take it with a grain of salt:

(1) not for rod bearings, need to look in Rave to answer for the front main bearing. It is a LOT easier if you jack up the vehicle by the frame, so there's as much clearance between the axle and oil pan as you can get.

(2) I did both. Rod bearing shells have tangs on them that keep them in place (unlike 2.7 and 3.0 V6 diesels in D3/4/5).

As a reference - I pulled the rod bearings on my old D1 at 250kmi and on a Classic with engine in ~280-300k range. Every journal was within specs, despite every bearing shell showing brass. I had no oil pressure issues before or after going into them. I would be very surprised to see main bearings worn more than rod bearings - it never happened to me on any engine.

 

[mearstrae]

Never, ever, lube the back of rod and main bearings, The main and rod bearings have little notches to keep them in place. If if you turn the engine over, in the direction of the notches with a wrench, the bearings should slide out. You'll never be able to change the rod bolts without taking the engine apart. The bolts should be fine, just be aware of the torque spec's. Look for any scratches or wear on the crank, if so the engine must come apart for proper repair. Be sure everything is clean, clean, clean. Also "Plasti-gauge" should be used to insure proper bearing clearance. Most auto parts stores should have this. RAVE is your friend...









change the rod bolts without taking the engine apart

 

[robbyb20]

I am not an engine rebuilder, so take it with a grain of salt:

(1) not for rod bearings, need to look in Rave to answer for the front main bearing. It is a LOT easier if you jack up the vehicle by the frame, so there's as much clearance between the axle and oil pan as you can get.

(2) I did both. Rod bearing shells have tangs on them that keep them in place (unlike 2.7 and 3.0 V6 diesels in D3/4/5).

As a reference - I pulled the rod bearings on my old D1 at 250kmi and on a Classic with engine in ~280-300k range. Every journal was within specs, despite every bearing shell showing brass. I had no oil pressure issues before or after going into them. I would be very surprised to see main bearings worn more than rod bearings - it never happened to me on any engine.

I may have to jack it up a little. I can get the oil pan off and out (not to the side but out) by taking the steering dampener off. There is a lift on the truck already so it helps a bit too.

Ill find out more once i get in there but i doubt its been thrashed, im just looking to button some things up.

Thanks!

 

[robbyb20]

Never, ever, lube the back of rod and main bearings, The main and rod bearings have little notches to keep them in place. If if you turn the engine over, in the direction of the notches with a wrench, the bearings should slide out. You'll never be able to change the rod bolts without taking the engine apart. The bolts should be fine, just be aware of the torque spec's. Look for any scratches or wear on the crank, if so the engine must come apart for proper repair. Be sure everything is clean, clean, clean. Also "Plasti-gauge" should be used to insure proper bearing clearance. Most auto parts stores should have this. RAVE is your friend...









change the rod bolts without taking the engine apart

Good call on the forward-backward on the crank. I should specify, i mean the big end connecting rod bearings. Not trying to do the ones that connect to the piston.

Ill polish, measure and reassemble if within spec.

Already have all the steps/torque specs from the RAVE. Its seriously one of the best tools out there. Just did the camshaft a couple weeks ago with it. Wish it also told all the tricks of the trade only seasoned mechanics know!