A
Arthur 1995 LWB
Guest
Sorry, I'm distressed 
, thus very long winded. The rangie is having a low idle at stop problem.
1. We own a 1995 RRC and a 1995 Disco I. Do they use the same MAF? AB site lists the same part for both trucks. The MAF in our trucks look the same but I wanna be sure before switching them.
2. In the 1995 RRC workshop manual, it describes the coolant sensor on the thermostat elbow as "...is located in the front of the thermostat housing. The sensor provides engine coolant information to the ECM. The ECM increases the injector opening time when cold to provide improved driveability, and reduces the opening time as the engine reaches normal operatin temperature." But everyone says it's the coolant temp sensor by the fuel temp sensor that matters to driveability - but that sensor is not even referenced in the fuel injection section of the manual. Is the manual wrong?
3. ok, alternator. It's the original and I cleaned all its connections and the + terminal at the battery (Optima red top 5 months old). THe pulley spins just fine. Measured voltage output at the battery at idle, 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm. Idle with lots of load (A/C headlights, fog lights, EAS compressor, radio on) went down once as low as 12.05 (revs dropped, of course), otherwise, around 12.8. At higher rpms with lots of load again, almost 13 volts, never went higher. These readings don't seem abnormal, right? What was odd was a couple of times. I turned all the loads off and measured the voltage at idle, once when I lifted the meter probes (not sure what they're called) off the battery terminals, engine stalled. Started it back up, started measuring again, as I lifted the probes, it stalled once again. WTF?? Just coincidence? Right before both times of stalling, the voltage did not take a sudden drop. Questions - is this type of testing enough to rule out the alternator as culprit? I mean if the rev drop for some other reason, the alternator would spin slower and generate voltage, right? Isn't this a chicken or egg appeared first riddle? Will Tillery sells a 120 Amp alternator at a reasonable price. He's had good experience using it. Anyone using it as well?
4. I want to eliminate the 20K old fuel filter from the equation. I don't have the right tools though. Looks like long wrenches will help give more leverage. What tools do you suggest for the job?
5. Magnecors. So, last night, I misted the 8mm Magnecors on wife's truck too. Those wires are only about 6 months old. They also arced at the gound points! My 6 year old same type wires arced about the same! Another WTF?? That's kinda outrageous to me but I guess that rules out the wires as the problem.
I've tried many of the ususal things and no luck. I'm thinking of squirting silicone lubricant in to the fuel pressure regulator tonight. Anyone think that would kill it if it isn't at fault?
The serpentine belt doesn't look bad at all. Fuel pump connector is clean.
I've cleaned the IACV opening where the plunger "works". IACV is new. Do I need to unbolt the whole darn chamber to clean it out?
What else can I do to narrow what system needs help? Plug a fuel pressure gauge in at the fuel rail?
Was reading about the EGR system because I don't think I heard the charcoal cannister activating recently but I don't think that'd do it...No coolant in oil...TPS is good...Keep thinking throuhg Fuel, Spark, Air...
, thus very long winded. The rangie is having a low idle at stop problem.1. We own a 1995 RRC and a 1995 Disco I. Do they use the same MAF? AB site lists the same part for both trucks. The MAF in our trucks look the same but I wanna be sure before switching them.
2. In the 1995 RRC workshop manual, it describes the coolant sensor on the thermostat elbow as "...is located in the front of the thermostat housing. The sensor provides engine coolant information to the ECM. The ECM increases the injector opening time when cold to provide improved driveability, and reduces the opening time as the engine reaches normal operatin temperature." But everyone says it's the coolant temp sensor by the fuel temp sensor that matters to driveability - but that sensor is not even referenced in the fuel injection section of the manual. Is the manual wrong?
3. ok, alternator. It's the original and I cleaned all its connections and the + terminal at the battery (Optima red top 5 months old). THe pulley spins just fine. Measured voltage output at the battery at idle, 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm. Idle with lots of load (A/C headlights, fog lights, EAS compressor, radio on) went down once as low as 12.05 (revs dropped, of course), otherwise, around 12.8. At higher rpms with lots of load again, almost 13 volts, never went higher. These readings don't seem abnormal, right? What was odd was a couple of times. I turned all the loads off and measured the voltage at idle, once when I lifted the meter probes (not sure what they're called) off the battery terminals, engine stalled. Started it back up, started measuring again, as I lifted the probes, it stalled once again. WTF?? Just coincidence? Right before both times of stalling, the voltage did not take a sudden drop. Questions - is this type of testing enough to rule out the alternator as culprit? I mean if the rev drop for some other reason, the alternator would spin slower and generate voltage, right? Isn't this a chicken or egg appeared first riddle? Will Tillery sells a 120 Amp alternator at a reasonable price. He's had good experience using it. Anyone using it as well?
4. I want to eliminate the 20K old fuel filter from the equation. I don't have the right tools though. Looks like long wrenches will help give more leverage. What tools do you suggest for the job?
5. Magnecors. So, last night, I misted the 8mm Magnecors on wife's truck too. Those wires are only about 6 months old. They also arced at the gound points! My 6 year old same type wires arced about the same! Another WTF?? That's kinda outrageous to me but I guess that rules out the wires as the problem.
I've tried many of the ususal things and no luck. I'm thinking of squirting silicone lubricant in to the fuel pressure regulator tonight. Anyone think that would kill it if it isn't at fault?
The serpentine belt doesn't look bad at all. Fuel pump connector is clean.
I've cleaned the IACV opening where the plunger "works". IACV is new. Do I need to unbolt the whole darn chamber to clean it out?
What else can I do to narrow what system needs help? Plug a fuel pressure gauge in at the fuel rail?
Was reading about the EGR system because I don't think I heard the charcoal cannister activating recently but I don't think that'd do it...No coolant in oil...TPS is good...Keep thinking throuhg Fuel, Spark, Air...
