Question from a would-be '95 RRC LWB buyer

[Welcome to Hell A]

The disco is getting donated to some charity, and will be used as a writeoff, most likely. That is, unless there is a good reason to do something else with it... Radiator has a hole in the bottom, tires are toast, paint is toast. Engine runs great.

So, I believe I want a '95 RRC LWB. I know it is not a real 'classic' due to the interior being similar to a disco's, but that is fine with me. What I want to know, is there any reason I should look for slightly earlier years to buy? I was thinking '95 because it is pretty similar to my '97 disco and would be easier to work on, for me. Tell me if I'm wrong.

I'll put up a wanted ad in the car section after I get some opinions. I have done a search, and got some info...but I don't recall a thread specifically saying whether to buy a '95 over another year. That could be because it is late, and I am tired.

Thanks, Jeff.

 

[MilSpec]

We have a 95 LWB and love it. Also have an 88 and the family obviously likes the newer one. They also have a 4.2 which gives you a little more power and is just about perfect. Everything is the same except the dash layout and dash electronics.

 

[stu454]

To digress: why are you getting rid of a great running D1? Radiator, tires and paint. Is that it or is it the typical long-assed list that's too painful to recount?

 

[AU_88]

To digress: why are you getting rid of a great running D1? Radiator, tires and paint. Is that it or is it the typical long-assed list that's too painful to recount?

x2

Also why is it not a real RRC? I have a 95 and it has been great. Just make sure you get a good one.

 

[Welcome to Hell A]

Well, it is honestly mainly the radiator and tires. The paint is quickly getting worse -- the roof is trashed and the hood will quickly be there. There is rust all over it - stock roof rack, top of windshield, alpine windows, rear door hinges, bottom of quarter panel - all of this of course makes nuts and bolts a bitch to get off sometimes, and sometimes you have to cut them off. Kinda tired of the east coast rust car. Headliner needs replacement, rear door latch needs replaced (won't open without special help), there is a short somewhere in the O2 circuit causing problems with smog checks, and last but not definitely not least: the intake gasket I could never get to seal right is leaking like a sieve again. Maybe I should've just said it has a long list. There's probably more. Good: Engine runs great, has a relatively new cam/timing chain/lifters from D&D and other parts. I wouldn't hesitate to drive this a long way if I had the tires and radiator. Tires = $500-1000, rad = $4-700. Clean '97 D1 = $2500. lol.

Back to the rrc question...Considering this would be a good exit point to get a rrc, I'll make the jump. The 'not a real classic' comment is not mine; I saw it while doing searches in this forum. Seems a few people think the '95 isn't a real classic due to the interior. I like it. In the case of the heater core going south in the '95, it would be an easier fix it seems.

'95's have distributors? Everything else the same...? I'm really diggin' the look of the rrc, but wanted to make sure the two cars weren't that different. Sounds like they're not. Thanks.

 

[galen216]

The '95 is not a real classic comment is total BS.

With a Series for fun the only RRC I'd buy for other use is a '95.

 

[stu454]

The heater core fix still sucks; just not as badly.

 

[Tugela]

One thing I preferred about my 1990 Rangie was the larger steering wheel. I felt like I was driving a bus. Not without a tradeoff, though: the 1995 steering wheel, although smaller, does have an airbag. Good luck, hope you get one. Make sure to do your research so you know what problem areas to check (tailgate rust, etc.).

 

[Roving Beetle]

I absolutely LOVE my 1995. Just buy the cleanest most rust free (REALLY LOOK!!) one you can and drive it with a smile.

The '95 is great, yes it has a dist. but overall it's simple and easy to fix, has the modern dash and airbags and a serp. belt motor. Nice trucks..... but i am a little biased.

 

[Welcome to Hell A]

Ah yes, the serpentine belt...

What's a fair price for a very clean, no rust/west coast, low miles (<100k), well-taken-care-of '95? LWB of course. I saw Roving Beetle recently bought one in the for sale section, but the price was gone.

There's a very clean white truck at a dealer in santa monica...for $10k. I was thinking more like $6-8k?

Thanks again.

 

[stu454]

Clean '95 LWB with less than 100k should be no more than $8k.

But I should be a millionaire, so take that with a grain of salt.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Range Rover classics are great to drive, but I just can't deal with the rust that all of them have. And before any of you California guys chime in about the rust, fuck you... Personally I'd just get the radiator recored or buy a new one and replace the tires, that stuff is so simple.

 

[Tugela]

Ask the dealer if you can take the truck to an independent Rover tech for an inspection. If they don't want to let the truck off the lot for a couple hours then ask if you can bring a Rover mechanic to inspect it on site.

If you are going to pay $8,000 you will be furious if you find out in three months that it needs a new ____________ and the ______ are broken, where _______ means "something expensive". Plus, if you find out it needs a bunch of work then you can try to use that to negotiate a lower price...maybe. Dealer may think if Mr. Smarty Pants has them all figured out then they won't sell to you and will wait for Mr. Unsuspecting Fool to come and plunk down big bucks for it.

 

[MilSpec]

Ha... $8k. Good lord, the wife would kill me.

I spent a whooping $2400 for ours. Just needed a good cleaning. No rust. Engine is perfect. Headliner needs replaced and a couple bushings need replacing. That's it.

 

[RoverDude]

I have a customer with a sweet Plymouth Blue 95 LWB with 113,000 that he's selling. And we are in your area. e-mail me for details roverdudeATsbcglobalDOTnet

 

[Roving Beetle]

A clean LWB that is solid and rust free but NOT a 50th anniversary truck is worth what ever you'll pay for it..... really, the prices are all over the place. HoweverI wouldn't pay a penny over 5-6K for a nice one, unless it's a true 50th anniversary truck (silver, blackish interior with 50th embossed on the seats) If you can find a solid clean one of those - $8-9-10K easy.

Doug

 

[Welcome to Hell A]

$5-6K sounds even better.

Check out this one:

http://slo.craigslist.org/cto/1747383516.html

Sorry about the tech hijack. Maybe this thread should end and I'll make a wanted thread in the for sale/wanted section.

 

[Hugh Wilton]

I have a 95 LWB 25th Aniv Edition. I love the truck and I stay on top of maintance but it is very frustrating trying to find interior parts as the plastic trim etc decides to break. Replacement parts are hard to find since the 95 interior only had a one year run there is not a large selection in junk yards etc. I have had almost no luck finding new interior parts.

If anyone knows a good parts source for 95's please let me know.

Hugh

 

[skippy3k]

The deciding factor for me in getting a '95 over the other years was the improved climate control system. My P38 climate control sucked balls. My Classic is like a freezer in the summer and in the winter, ah....it's like snuggling up next to Chapman on a cold winter night. Or so I've been told.

 

[Roverjosh]

I bought a 95 LWB on Craigslist. Had its share of problems, but mostly cosmetic annoying things, not mechanical things. Got it for $1950, down from 2500. It has 100k. The only rust is the rear window frame. The seats/mirrors don't work (ecu problem). The AC is out, but I don't know if it just needs new R132 or a bigger problem?

The big issue with these trucks are (IMHO) the air suspension systems. Sure you can fix them and you can get home in limp mode if they go south on you on the freeway; however you can't do this if you have bought larger tires and not done the lift kit yet, like I did.

I put the tires on, bought a lift kit, and figured I would put it on later, then one night, it just dropped onto the bumpstops, started rubbing EVERY wheel well and I was done. Had to get it towed.

So, if the springs don't manually lift or lower the truck, be prepared for that to be the first to go. I just did a lift kit and LOVE the new OME stuff.......2" lift is awesome on these trucks.

Plus you get Traction control!

Josh