Questions

DarthMole18

Well-known member
May 27, 2006
334
0
43
Glastonbury
Question:
On a 1998 disco 1 with 100k, all issues tackled, no rust, everything clean, rebuilt, painted. Lifted 2" on ome w/ bf goodie AT. Factory brush guard w/ hella 3000. Turn-key mint d1. What is most you could reasonably ask/ most you would pay for the truck at time sale?
 

1920SF

Well-known member
Jan 6, 2007
2,705
1
NoVA
Depends on what you mean by rebuilt; new motor or rebuilt motor? New transmission/rebuilt transmission, same/same with TC. Likewise what's the quality of the re-paint?

With no other details and totally off the cuff...prob $2.5-3.5k or so, but then again good D1's are harder and harder to find these days so if it hits threshold you may find someone willing to go higher.
r-
Ray
 

DarthMole18

Well-known member
May 27, 2006
334
0
43
Glastonbury
It just seems like most d1 are cheap and dying and I've seen d1 camels in less than fair going for 18k. I realize it's a CT, but if there was a market for 6-8k d1 in top shape, then a profit could be made getting a 500$ d1 and bringing it back. I think one day all the early discos and ranges are going to be parted out and gone. We need to preserve. And make money. That's the whole thing, is there money to be made flipping discos.
 

DiscoPhoto

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2012
2,581
76
Vermont
No regular D1 will ever reach CT prices, they're always going to be on another level.


Most I'd pay? $2000, because it's not anything special. Take off the BFG a/ts I'd pay a little more.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
It's worth whatever you can get someone to pay for it. That's the key to any sale. It may sound obvious, but most people miss out. If you keep an eye on all these things, and are selling your own vehicle that you can afford to stare at for a few months, you can quite often turn a $3,000 car into a $6,000 car.

That's why I'm typing this instead of giving a number.

1: Start high, and start everywhere. Use every free service available to you within 100 miles, no matter how cheap they seem. Many people are addicted to those cheap fuel station publications, including the wealthy.

Older people and active participants in community life still read local newspapers, so get the car in the classifieds. Those newspapers generally have websites, so be sure it ends up there, as well. On that note, many communities have websites, as well. Don't forget the 100 mile rule in this regard.

Communities have events. I hate events, but if you want to sell a car, it needs to be in attendance. Don't waste money driving anywhere outside of your normal radius, but attend everything. Events may include fairs, traditional local festivals, religious gatherings, voting periods, fund raisers, and sporting celebrations. If you can't be there, someone you know can.

Weasel your way into dealership advertisements. Offer them a chance to sell the vehicle by their own means, and work out a solid fee to be paid after the sale. Find people like me (who think they're really good at selling things) and offer them the challenge.

Print out small, attractive flyers. Issue them to every business that focuses on vehicles, including shops, audio installers, tire joints, and mechanics. Find people to place them on every college, church, and supermarket bulletin board of which you are aware.

When that car isn't being driven, it needs to be on display. You'd be surprised how easy it is to get a car on a dealer lot. Many small-timers will display it right at the road. Find the best compromise between location and quality. Store the vehicle there when you aren't using it.

While all that's going on, keep an eye on prices. Don't always mention offers, and adjust the price for the venue. When you've got everything sorted, you are ready to hit the paid internet and publication services.

Don't waste time informing people about standard equipment, and don't bother with options either, unless it's something special, like rear seat air conditioning, seven seats, or air springs. Don't tell people it's got new tires. They weren't thinking about it until you said it, and once you did, they began to think about expenses.

Don't waste time listing all the great work you've done to it, and don't tell people how much you have "invested" in the vehicle. Again, they begin to consider expenses, and you'll have informed the intelligent shopper that you're a shitty investor.

Just mention it's service history.

If you've done a lot to the vehicle, mention it's "extensive and thorough" service history. Find every receipt you can get your hands on. These are things to be discussed in person. The shopper may be fine with repairs when driving the vehicle, but they can put him off when reading about them.

If you had a good technician put good parts into a good vehicle that runs well, it's not something with which to bother people. Let the car do the talking.

2: Seasons affect vehicle prices differently in various locations. Land Rovers are great early spring and fall cars. This is when people feel like going outside in a car the most. Summer may seem nice, but you really need to keep the car in the shade and run the air conditioning before test drives; especially in a British vehicle.

3: Photography is incredibly important. It's not just about nice pictures, it's all about impression. You want to pick your target customer and aim that impression right at that person. Forget the car. You're selling an experience. Keep that in mind.

Location and time are very important. Don't just pick a fancy building, and don't just wait for a sunny day. Indeed, a glowing interior that appears warm and inviting at the end of a rainy or snowy day can be nice. You'll want sweeping shots with every light on inside.

Exterior shots are tricky as hell sometimes. You've got to manage paint color and setting. Sparkle isn't as important as light playing off lines and reflections of the right imagery. You can get a reflection off just about any car if you are careful enough.

Dramatic clouds are pretty, but they aren't for every vehicle.

If you are a shit photographer, find a student enthusiast. Just appeal to his artful pride, feed him during the day, and offer him a few dollars once you agree that the pictures are good. There's no excuse for bad photography when selling a car when you can get a college student to do pretty much anything.

4: Be sure to detail the damned thing, and stay away from any product that makes things too shiny in the interior and especially on exterior black plastic. Don't use tire snot! Clean and condition them.

Detailing may take some time, and time is money, but pick a day that you'd waste anyway. Don't be afraid to use a touch-up brush. Paintless dent removal is a great way to finish up a car, as well. You can generally work out a deal for touch ups while he's concentrating on the job at hand.

It is perfectly fine to paint things such as trailer hitches, bits of frame, and axles, but treat them properly beforehand, and do a good job. Don't fuck anyone. Do it right, and make it last.

A clay bar is one of the best secret weapons you can possibly use. Nobody can resist touching paint after it's been exposed to a clay bar. Nobody. Another feel-good treatment is firearm lubricant on door hinges. Be careful with it, though.

Clean the engine bay. Don't snot it up. Clean it. Use another wasted day. Do whatever you can, but get it clean. Don't make it sparkle. Even an idiot can spot fluffing these days.

5: Watch your money. This stuff can get expensive. Use what you have and borrow what you don't until you run into something that just can't be had in that manner. Only then should you pay for something.

MOST IMPORTANTLY:

Remember that none of this shit is worth a damn within an enthusiast community. All it will do is make you a target for entertainment.:rofl:

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,766
566
Seattle
Here is one data point for you: I would personally pay $4,000 for the truck you describe. $4,002 if it had a hula girl on the dash.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,219
470
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Depending on color and interior condition, agree with Tugela. If it were May 2016 when we come back to USA, I would be seriously looking at what you have.

And yes, rust free and intact Classic Rangies are now very few and far between. I am always looking as will need a decent parts Rangie for the '94 LWB.
 
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bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
Email me pics. I might be interested if it truly is mechanically, interior and exterior mint. But one of my "opinions" is that there is no "mint" car with over 100k miles unless it is restored.
 

DarthMole18

Well-known member
May 27, 2006
334
0
43
Glastonbury
Awesomely detailed pertinent info. I've had 8 discos and have always sold them within 1k the original purchase price.

I have "pokey" from the gumbi show on my dash.

I've got an '85 swab range if you want to make an offer.

The mint d1 is only figurative.
 

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
Why did you choose '98 if this was figurative? LOL.

The 100k and rebuilded D1 really is truck by truck. All the things that you claim have been done to this truck to get it to mint would need to be looked at and considered. But it's still a 100k/15 y.o. truck.

Your idea of mint and mine are different.

Mint. IMO, is original. So, it'd need to be < 50k miles original, very much like it rolled off the dealers floor.

What you are talking about is just a well maintained vehicle and I would need to see it to determine what I might pay.
 
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bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
What's a "swab" RR??

LOL. Its just got a little ear wax on it. Or maybe it swabs up it's own oil.

Likely just meant SWB. Which in an 85 might be 2 door? Not sure, but I certainly don't need pix of an 85 to know that I am not interested.