bigdaddy67 said:
Thank god. This is the problem I am having with my rear cargo door and passenger rear door. I assume the spring fix is straight forward and will look in the archives.
I am having another issue with the rear driver's side passenger door. If I leave the actuator plugged in it blows the door lock fuse when I lock or unlock the doors. Any ideas? I have had a local mechanic suggest that it is the MFU, but looking through the archives this doesn't make sense.
If the actuator is blowing fuses when you unlock the doors with the remote, it definitely sounds like you have a short in the wiring
If it is indeed a wiring short, then the most likely suspect would probably be insulation worn off the wires and allowing the conductors to touch. Although it's impossible to be 100% certain, I would start by looking for the problem inside the door itself. You will need to pull off the inner door panel and the plastic draft sheeting to have a look. I think it would be a good idea to remove the actuator and bench test it first to see it the wires inside the actuator are OK. I just replied to a post about actuator repairs and the function of the wires:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=618191&postcount=4
If it's a rear door, there will only be 2 wires, and both go to the actuator motor. Depending on which wire has the +12V to it, and which is grounded, the motor will turn one way or the other. Test the motor by momentarily applying 12V to one wire while grounding the other wire. You should see the actuator shaft move in or out. Then reverse the polarity and give another short 12V shot and the actuator shaft should move in the opposite direction. If you don't have a 12 VDC power supply, you can use test leads and get power directly from the battery.
If your motor is working then that's good news. Now that you have the actuator removed, you will want to check the wire harness for the actuator inside the door. Most of the time when you get a short in some wires, it's either because of melted insulation or wear on the wires due to repeated rubbing. You'll have to cut off all the plastic zip tie straps in order to get access to the harness, and you will probably also have to remove any outer sleeving to be able to see the wires inside. Examine the wires closely, and if you are lucky, you will find a spot where the bare wires are touching and causing a short. There is a good chance that the repeated up & down cycling of the window might have worn through the sleeving and insulation and is allowing the bare wires to touch each other.
If there is no problems inside the door, then your problem is somewhere up the circuit. At this point you will have to go through the tedious process of circuit tracing in order to locate your problem. Finally, it is possible that the locking control unit is the problem, but I would start with the actuator and door wiring.
Kev
