rear main replacement
- Thread starter grips03
- Start date
grips03 said:
Way too much for dweb rover owners.
Pull engine, remove flywheel, remove oil pan. Install in reverse.
or, pull transfer case, pull transmission, pull flywheel, installation in reverse.
Besides, its the crux seals anyways not the main. If its an '03/04 a new pair of crux seals won't seal your turd.
Thats a good 16-20 hours of work for a $20 gasket. Before you assume its the rear main I would get that engine cleaned up and really check where the leaks are coming from. Since the back of the pan is the lowest point any oil leaking will end up looking like a rear main leak.
you mean "how much to remove the rust inhibiting oil ejection underbody protection thingy?"
I agree, a lot of $$$ for a problem that never really goes away. If you have it apart at some point in the future for something big, then have at it. Unless it is pouring out, let it ride.
I agree, a lot of $$$ for a problem that never really goes away. If you have it apart at some point in the future for something big, then have at it. Unless it is pouring out, let it ride.
flyfisher11 said:
All kidding aside, does this shit really work? I have heard of similar products before but this one seems."the most legit". Anyone have any stories or experience with it?
lanceputnam said:
It works. Used the "Rear Main Seal" version on my wife's 99D2. Slowed it to a drip every couple of days. Thats bone dry for a LR. Works even better in gear oil. Her TC dropped more oil than the EXXON Valdez when we first bought it. It was the dead of winter and I wasn't up to changing all the seals until spring, so I threw the engine oil version in just to hopefully carry me through. Holy crap!, that thing sealed up like it never even had oil in it in the first place. I never even bothered to change those seals as it NEVER leaked again. Not even a drop. Just put a couple of cap-fulls in every time I serviced the TC.
- FWIW
I got reman short block from AB. It leaked from day 1 after it was installed. So pretty certain of the issue. Plan was to take off transmission and transfer case. I guess we could pull the engine again. And by we I mean a mechanic friend, this is way past my knowledge of the truck. Looking for amount I should pay him.
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jymmiejamz said:
its AB. AB customers are a dime a dozen. ive heard of independent shops having to pull AB blocks several times after install due to freeze plugs falling out.
used GEMS 4.6's are the only way to go.
seventyfive said:
They must get their short blocks from Land Rover...
In all seriousness, the AB blocks I've put in have been pretty nice. The Land Rover genuine ones are total crap.
Yeah leaked from day 1. Going to have fixed over the next two weekends. AB needs to do a much better job with the short block. Spray paint on the head surface, not sure why they even bothered to paint the block. I had my heads done locally and they look brand new. Aluminum block should have cleaned up fine if they did what the head guy did. Also area between the heads that has the chisel holes, was still like rough (like factory) and some bits just broke off. When the block was stripped they could have smoothed out this area too. They have a parts warranty, so we need to document everything. I think they will do the right thing - i.e. pay the guy I have doing the work , its just that after buying something new you just want it to work and not have to fix their mistake.
any reason you guys are separating the tcase from the tranny for removal? i suppose its a good time to fix that cross shaft leak.
It makes it considerably easier to get to the bellhousing bolts. I learned that not to long ago.
hmm. do you not have a lift and tranny jack? i can remove the fan and shroud, then while supported on the tranny jack, tilt the whole unit down enough to get a straight shot to all the bolts with two long extensions.
I have small arms and hands, so I have no trouble getting to the bell housing bolts. I can usually have a DII motor out in about 1.5 hours or so. I just remove that driveshaft, and that's about it. I access the top bell housing bolts from the top with a flex head ratcheting wrench.
More like damned certified warranty short blocks in 03/04 Disco's! I think the warranty time is about 12 hours for a SAI short block. Not fun.