Rear Shocks???

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
What do you guys suggest for rear shocks?

I have an OME lift front and rear. Front has HD springs and the rear has MD springs. I'm still running the factory shocks out back and they suck horribly. Its like the back end is a pogo stick over everything. I have Bilstien 5125's up front 10" of travel with the heavier rate for dampening. I had them lying around when I put the lift on and decided to try them out.

Currently the rear only has about 8" of travel. The front has a little over 10" of travel. I'd like to be able to get 10-12" of travel out of the back. I'm also planning on ditching the Watts linkage for a track rod setup.

I looked at N108's for the rear, but they only give you about 9" of travel. And I prefer a mono-tube shock anyway.

I carry a lot of crap when I go 4 wheeling. Wife and 4 kids with all my gear.

I don't want to spend more then $100-$200 per shock.

Thanks
 

disco_drum

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2006
1,999
16
42
Woodstock, GA
Many many many people will disagree, but my procomp 9000s have been awesome. They are 2" longer than stock and have held up great for 8 years
 

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
I've had pro comps on a yota. They seemed fine unless I was bombing down a dirt road at excessive speeds. Then they would overheat and stop working. Bilstien's have always treated me well with OME springs. I've used them on Jeeps and Land Rovers and they never seem to fade, no matter how I'm driving.
 

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
My P38 had a lot more suspension travel then this does. And as far as springs and shocks, its almost the same setup. I used some bilstien shocks for the front of a P38 on the back.

I know the radius arms are a bit different then the D2, but does it really make that big of a difference?

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KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
P38 is a completely different design.

Use ome or use bilstien 7100 12" short body or 10" regular body remote reservoirs. Valved 400/100. Do it now or do it later. I have tried other stuff and this works.
 

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
This is the most it'll do currently

I've also removed the whole ACE system as well. As I blew a rear hose on it while driving home from Wyoming, and burned up the pump.

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DiscoPhoto

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2012
2,581
76
Vermont
I don't think i'll ever get rid of the radius arms. Is there anyway to get more travel out them? I thought the Watts Linkage was the binding point

It is a binding point, after you switch to the panhard rod, the radius arm bushings on the axle are the next binding point.
 

gl4x4

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2010
141
0
Layton, UT
I used some polybush soft bushing on the front of my P38. Would those work good for the Disco as well?

Its still a daily driver, but I work from home and have a F350 for critical hauling/towing duties. I mostly drive this around town and to 4 wheeling locations. probably only going to see 15000 miles per year, if that.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
Many many many people will disagree, but my procomp 9000s have been awesome. They are 2" longer than stock and have held up great for 8 years

I would have never figured a shock sucked quite at bad as the ProComps until I witnessed it for myself. I bought my '95 from a fellow club member. 1.5, MAYBE 2, years earlier I had installed lift springs and brand new ProComp shocks in his 95 in my driveway.
When I bought the truck I thought "cool, I'll be able to reuse the shocks on my '96 or maybe even sell them". Boy was I wrong! All 4 shocks were junk. None of them had any rebound whatsoever. The truck wasn't beat on. The PO had it off road once and I was with him. My Rancho's only lasted two years but I beat the snot out of them.
So if you like replacing shocks every 1-2 years go ProComp. Otherwise get a decent 10-12" shock.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
Personally I would(and did) go with a Fox shock. If I'm not mistaken the Bilstein have some oddball mount bolt size. I hate stuff like that. I run the Fox 2.0 Emulsions with the Eibach shaft bumpstops installed. I'm currently switching out the Heims for a polyurethane bushing that should make less chatter. The only thing I like about the Bilstein is they have the short body.
 

nickb857

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
1,388
3
38
Las Vegas
I don't see the 400/100 in the 10" non-resi. I guess they only stock that valving in the short bodies. I never noticed as I use the 12" SB. Im sure they can valve the 10" to 400/100 for you though.
 

disco_drum

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2006
1,999
16
42
Woodstock, GA
i have beat the shit our of my pro comps for almost 9 years and they are still fine. plenty of rebound still. I guess their quality control is kinda like Land Rovers.
 

mick968

Well-known member
Feb 10, 2009
215
0
St.louis area(Waterloo,ill)
Personally I would(and did) go with a Fox shock. If I'm not mistaken the Bilstein have some oddball mount bolt size. I hate stuff like that. I run the Fox 2.0 Emulsions with the Eibach shaft bumpstops installed. I'm currently switching out the Heims for a polyurethane bushing that should make less chatter. The only thing I like about the Bilstein is they have the short body.

I had same result with Procomps when I went to switch out (Fox. 2.0) one of the Procomps in rear was completely broke off at base and one of the fronts had no compression left. I hadn't even noticed (until I installed the Fox set up) what a difference they made
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
No clue on fox but bilstien uses 1/2" bolts. Not oddball and my heims are still tight.

Good to know, for some reason I thought they used a 12 or 14mm bolt. My Heims are ok, just trying to take out the harshness OT prevent them from failing. I'll throw a few in the trail spares box.